Rock Climbing

GrizFyrFyter

4 wheels move the baby.
i was just at PG in Belmont for a climbing comp.

i did my first lead climb on the Farside on sunday, 60 ft 5.8 clean.
 

Jello_Biafra

bbrraaappp
I kicked a 10.d's ass last night, my first ever. 11.a seems so close but at the same time so far. I know it will come though, just a couple of weeks ago I felt like I had plateaued at 10.a and now 10.a's and b's are usually no problem.
 

davidji

bike curious
Rode to Mt Diablo, and top rope soloed. Not the best place for a couple of people to ride bikes, since each has to pay. National parks are better that way: When I've ridden to Yosemite with another rider, my pass covered us both.
 

Jello_Biafra

bbrraaappp
I ended up going 3 days in a row this week (two normal days and a friend wanted to climb the other) and wow am I ever hurting. I don't think I'll be trying that again for a while, I still don't have the finger strength or toughened skin of some more experienced folk.
 

FLH03RIDER

Recedite, plebes!
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Hmmm.... nice rack, but what route were you climbing that you (the lead?) would need that much hardware? And lots of weight! I'm thinking that the second should have been carrying half that load and they would have been ready to start leading the second pitch. Start of third pitch tie off and redistribute gear. Just curious.
 

Warrior Princess

Freedom Equity Group
I used to rock climb in the Tahoe National Forest above Foresthill up and down the canyon walls.

Real time action. With out rope so you either make it or you dont go home.
 

highonF4i

wait, what?
Hmmm.... nice rack, but what route were you climbing that you (the lead?) would need that much hardware? And lots of weight! I'm thinking that the second should have been carrying half that load and they would have been ready to start leading the second pitch. Start of third pitch tie off and redistribute gear. Just curious.

an accurate observation. I was WAY over-racked the whole weekend, we were at the Leap, but you could practically aid a big wall with what we were carrying (2x C4s .5-4, 2x BD nuts, 1 -4 master cams, #00-4 TCUs, #1 and #2 linkcams, and slung hexes). We had the leader carrying everything on every pitch, mostly because we're fairly new at multi-pitch trad, so we're not yet honed at routefinding and choosing the right gear for the pitch based on our beta, and by visually sizing up features on the route. So many of the cams, esp in the smaller range, were unnecessary (never used any of the TCUs or linkcams).

We felt better/safer being over prepared. It was good practice to place extra gear; sometimes placed two pieces if they were sketchy or before a crux, and I generally used 3 - 4 pieces per belay, etc.

The weight sucked but it was good to know how it affected our climbing. We learned a hell of a lot though, and next time we'll be able to be more selective.
 

GrizFyrFyter

4 wheels move the baby.
That's something I have little experience with, not talented at crack climbing. I actually haven't had the climbing shoes on since may.
 

highonF4i

wait, what?
I'm sorry wintersports enthusiasts (I'm one.) But this weak ass excuse for a winter needs to END, and this measly base needs to melt. If I don't place some pro soon I'm gonna lose it. (I know I could go freeze my ass off in red rocks or josh, but, you know what I mean.)

in the meantime, I'll be dreaming of perfect hand cracks


youtu.be/NbCEGGSQ-aY
 

GrizFyrFyter

4 wheels move the baby.
i still havent had a chance to do anymore climbing. i feel like i have betrayed my shoes and i dont deserve to live near yosemite anymore. lol

doesnt stop me from buying more gear though, i have a problem.
 

GrizFyrFyter

4 wheels move the baby.
i finally threw my shoes back on last friday. too bad im moving from Sonora to Lodi. i will probably hit up Granite Arch in sac a few times a month. im going to miss table mountain for sure.
 

highonF4i

wait, what?
I just received word that my climbing partner might be abandoning me this season to go travel with some pair of legs :cry
Funny how quickly a rack becomes useless if you've got no partner.
anybody want to climb a bunch of "easy" trad this season?
Just a few off my "to do" tick list:
Upper spire
bear's reach
cathedral peak
royal arches
some tuolumne domes
snake dike
etc etc
 

GrizFyrFyter

4 wheels move the baby.
i wanted to do snake dyke last june but didnt get around to it. a buddy of mine is trying to try me away from the family this summer for snake dyke and royal arches regular route. hes pretty damn good but its been a few years since he did any serious climbing. He is actually the guy pictured on the cover of the sonora pass climbing guide.
 
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