Hello everyone, I'd like join in on all this fun. I have the article with the injector bypass along with pictures, however I don't understand the modification to the secondary harness. Can someone take a picture of the bypass on the bike. Please text (646 246 9679) or email. Many thanks.
Cripple Triple
- Thread starter Killin_ix
- Start date
MZarra
AFM Treasurer
Depends on your bike...
Assuming you are using an R6, you can either pull the connector out of the airbox and plug in a dummy injector or you can use a bypass sub-sub-harness that allows you to connect a 5th injector (while disabling the injector for the dead cylinder).
I have built a number of those sub-sub-harnesses and they are quite simple.
Let me know which bike you are on and we can continue the discussion.
Not going to text or email as keeping the information in this thread lets others read it and understand it
phocup
Well-known member
Not going to text or email as keeping the information in this thread lets others read it and understand it
:thumbup
MZarra
AFM Treasurer
Ok, R6
You have two options. You can open the top of the airbox and thread the cylinder's shower injector connector out of the airbox and plug in a dummy injector to it.
What help do you need? Sounds like you are almost there.
I guess this "How to" below is confusing the heck out of me:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1wi-Mo0Vl7IOtMkmcz_dPC63fmKSgCkbGMozQv6IYceo/mobilebasic
Im following the sub-sub harness bypass and I don't know exactly where to splice the two new connectors into; the secondary harness has the different colored wires for each of the injectors so my question is which colored wire do I tap into for the two new connectors. Seems like that article is missing a few details,no? Or maybe I'm just wack.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1wi-Mo0Vl7IOtMkmcz_dPC63fmKSgCkbGMozQv6IYceo/mobilebasic
Im following the sub-sub harness bypass and I don't know exactly where to splice the two new connectors into; the secondary harness has the different colored wires for each of the injectors so my question is which colored wire do I tap into for the two new connectors. Seems like that article is missing a few details,no? Or maybe I'm just wack.
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MZarra
AFM Treasurer
There is no splicing!
I am not sure where that google doc came from so I cannot speak to it.
If you are using a sub-sub-harness based off my design then it would go in where the 6 wire plug is that the airbox connects to.
MZarra
AFM Treasurer
Marc
You're close to me I'm coming over. Can you please please post a picture of your modified harness and/or draw a diagram. Track day is upon us and I'd like to get this done asap.
Ok, image attached.
Main harness and sub harness are STOCK. Zero changes
Bypass harness is what I created. It has a 6 pin male and a 6 pin female so that it can "shunt" the dead cylinder's negative off to the dummy injector. I then connect a 5th injector to the dummy and that will disable the shower injector.
The lower injector is easier: unplug injector from engine. plug injector into dummy.
That is ALL you need to do to turn an R6 into an R4.
I have all the parts and pieces to build this sub-subharness and can build more of them pretty quickly. I would show you a picture but I don't feel like tearing my bikes apart again today
Stalerice
AFM #828
Ian,
Lol I was in contact with Chris during rd 7 of last year and he gave me the lowdown on turning my 600rr into a 450. Turns out the Hondas are the easiest to turn into a 450. I'd figure we needed some diversity in the grid so I figured why not race with you hooligans. :teeth See you on the grid this year.
Nick
An impromptu meet up with the 450 crew today at Equilibrium lead to a successful 450 conversion and some dyno numbers as well. Thanks Marc, Miguel, Chris for the help much appreciated it. And Sir Charles I owe a drink for loading duties. See you guys soon.
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Shaggy
Zoinks!!!!
Seems like a waste of a competitive machine. :dunno
Corey
GPz550 Addict
"If someone was cheating it would be immediately obvious and it is testable after the race (the 30 minute protest period). "
Just thought here. With this 30 minute protest period, what happens if the next or even the 2nd race after the 450 race is one that these bikes can be quickly converted to race in a 600 class? Changing the 450 to a 600 during that 30 minute period could be grounds for a DQ. Probably safe to make sure there are least 2 races between this so it doesn't happen. Again, just a thought.
Just thought here. With this 30 minute protest period, what happens if the next or even the 2nd race after the 450 race is one that these bikes can be quickly converted to race in a 600 class? Changing the 450 to a 600 during that 30 minute period could be grounds for a DQ. Probably safe to make sure there are least 2 races between this so it doesn't happen. Again, just a thought.
uncle_nospeed
Well-known member
So glad this thread was created, as a new owner of an 08 R6 that is currently being converted to a triple... I cant wait to get back and get on the track!
No problem! If I my small knowledge base can help then I will! That's the best part of this group. Everyone is always willing to give a helping hand!
dangeranger
Well-known member
Are you going to be racing this season?
MZarra
AFM Treasurer
That is a good question. Here are my thoughts on the subject.
1. A 450 running as a 600 is DAMN obvious to anyone who has been on the grid. The sound is different, the pick up off the corner is massively different, speed is different, etc.
Having actually raced a 450 (and a 600) for the past 3 years in multiple clubs (11 race events last year before I got injured) I can say for certain that I can tell you the difference just walking past a 450 vs. a 600. Everyone on the grid can hear the difference. It is NOT subtle.
2. Reaching under the tail to flip a switch mid-race while hitting markers and focusing on the race? Seriously? Then hitting it a second time before T1, while braking, fighting for position, getting your weight in position for the turn, etc.
Sounds possible and doable to a bench racer or rules lawyer, I would enjoy watching someone try to do that in an actual competition.
3. Even if/when the switch mod is approved by Tech, it will still be a DQ if it is accessible during the race. If a switch is on the bars it should be an automatic DQ imho. The switch should be accessible in the pit, etc. but not mid-race. That is not something that can be changed or hidden even if you are doing back to back races.
4. The mods that are currently legal (disable spark and/or fuel) is not reversible between back to back races. They are not something that can be flipped while on the track. I can switch my bike in about 10 minutes. That will barely let me make the grid if there is one race between. That gives a 450 protest plenty of time to be filed.
At the end of the day this is club racing. There is a lot of trust that the racer is there to compete, not cheat.
The rules are in place to give people guidelines to have a "fair" race.
If someone wants to cheat to win a $5.00 trophy, they are going to cheat, doesn't matter the class. They will over bore, run a super bike in production, etc.
Limiting the people who want to run in a class, have fun and support the club is not the best way to keep the club healthy.
Better to let people run their bikes and let the protest system do what it is intended to do. If you are cheating you will get caught eventually.
If someone comes up with something clever that gives them a huge advantage it can be dealt with via a number of existing rules or it can be banned specifically after it has been shown to give them an unfair advantage.
Trust but verify.