All for Racing - CBR Build/Crash/Rebuild
- Thread starter stangmx13
- Start date
RaptorFA
EarShplitinloudenboomer
Excellent! If I am reading this right you might be getting a little assistance with upkeep of the body, paint and such. That would be good. It must be a big job trying to do it all yourself. Labor of love, for sure, but a big job.
Looking forward to the next update. Just wanted to let you know that I was interested in how you were progressing with the season. Big props to ya for getting out there and doin it, man. :thumbup
Looking forward to the next update. Just wanted to let you know that I was interested in how you were progressing with the season. Big props to ya for getting out there and doin it, man. :thumbup
stangmx13
not Stan
finally replacing those pesky stock bars. they are heavy and the bar-ends never stay in. these new ones should hold up better and replacement bars are cheap. obviously, i still need to mount the starter switch and buy a new throttle tube. been looking into an R6 tube for 1/6th turn since im having a hard time finding the HRC 1/5th turn for cheap.
first time ive ever removed a subframe. since this is a Honda, i expected to have to remove many many more bolts and tabs, but it wasnt too bad.
and heres why it came off.... ez to tell which one is bent to shit, no?
well, the tabs on my midpipe were pretty bent too; a deadblow hammer and some pliers too care of that. good thing the header is SS otherwise itd prob have cracked. i also trimmed off broken pieces of the battery tray and didnt remount the heatshield. i need to do something for the Bazzaz, prob go buy a sheet of AL and mount it under the tail once again. hell, itll prob be more secure than before and at least i ran the wires better now.
im still waiting on my bodywork, but hopefully itll be here for mounting this weekend. i am lining up a sponsorship but paperwork is taking a little while... meh. lets hope its easier to mount than the prev ArmourBodies set.
first time ive ever removed a subframe. since this is a Honda, i expected to have to remove many many more bolts and tabs, but it wasnt too bad.
and heres why it came off.... ez to tell which one is bent to shit, no?
well, the tabs on my midpipe were pretty bent too; a deadblow hammer and some pliers too care of that. good thing the header is SS otherwise itd prob have cracked. i also trimmed off broken pieces of the battery tray and didnt remount the heatshield. i need to do something for the Bazzaz, prob go buy a sheet of AL and mount it under the tail once again. hell, itll prob be more secure than before and at least i ran the wires better now.
im still waiting on my bodywork, but hopefully itll be here for mounting this weekend. i am lining up a sponsorship but paperwork is taking a little while... meh. lets hope its easier to mount than the prev ArmourBodies set.
stangmx13
not Stan
finally been working on the bike again so how about an update
my bodywork sponsorship went through last week and a few days later, another big box of fairings at my door. big thanks to John at OptimalRacing for taking the time to read my resume and helping me out. now ive got some more stickers, some leather patches, and a banner to hang from my ez-up.
so first things first... my bike is seriously lacking in stability, so much that i ran the forks 4mm below the top triple last race out. that took weight off the front end and made front-end feedback terrible midcorner. so, to gain some stability and lower my gearing, lets more the rear tire back more. ez enough, just pull the nice DID ERV3 and Renthal sprockets of my other CBR. of course, the whole deal is more difficult if u break your chain press pin, but a piece of an allen key works just as well.
after that, to fix more front-end woes... revalve and respring the forks. rebound damping was def too stiff as i was running it 3 1/2 turns out, so i softened that back up a little. heres the new stack. Rebound shims first, then mid-valve (which contributes to compression damping)
No code has to be inserted here.
when disassembling the forks, i noticed a severe lack in installed preload on the forks. preload range was only 2-8mm... after studying some suspension books for a few hrs, thats not enough. stupid that i didnt notice before. also, these springs i got fit surprisingly tight in the tubes, not good for friction. so i ordered new springs (same rate) w/ a thinner diameter that were 20mm longer. cut the spacers down 15mm to have 5mm more preload and i end up w/ a 6-12mm installed preload range. much better.
the bodywork is going on pretty smoothly... better than the prev set. the tank fit better, the tail fit perfectly, the upper only needed minor trimming around the stock windscreen, and i dont need to add fiberglass to make seams line up. i do notice some weakness on the lower, but it aint bad. really, the previous set was NOT worth the extra cost, this Optimal stuff is great. heres the first pic, more later.
two more pieces to install. i finally got tired of the stock HESD (Honda electronic steering damper) and ordered a GPR mounting kit for the V4 i already have. thatll go one quick later tonight. also, i obviously need a throttle tube and i hope the R6 one fits. the housing needs a little grinding but thats ez, all im worried about is the cables. i ordered a stock tube and extra cables just in case. stock on left (1/4 turn), R6 on the right... possible 1/6th turn.
ive got a trackday on Monday at Buttonwillow to sus out all these changes before racing. plz oh plz can i find some confidence in riding fast again. at least i know that track like the back of my hand, cept the new asphalt in Cotton Corners.
my bodywork sponsorship went through last week and a few days later, another big box of fairings at my door. big thanks to John at OptimalRacing for taking the time to read my resume and helping me out. now ive got some more stickers, some leather patches, and a banner to hang from my ez-up.
so first things first... my bike is seriously lacking in stability, so much that i ran the forks 4mm below the top triple last race out. that took weight off the front end and made front-end feedback terrible midcorner. so, to gain some stability and lower my gearing, lets more the rear tire back more. ez enough, just pull the nice DID ERV3 and Renthal sprockets of my other CBR. of course, the whole deal is more difficult if u break your chain press pin, but a piece of an allen key works just as well.
after that, to fix more front-end woes... revalve and respring the forks. rebound damping was def too stiff as i was running it 3 1/2 turns out, so i softened that back up a little. heres the new stack. Rebound shims first, then mid-valve (which contributes to compression damping)
No code has to be inserted here.
when disassembling the forks, i noticed a severe lack in installed preload on the forks. preload range was only 2-8mm... after studying some suspension books for a few hrs, thats not enough. stupid that i didnt notice before. also, these springs i got fit surprisingly tight in the tubes, not good for friction. so i ordered new springs (same rate) w/ a thinner diameter that were 20mm longer. cut the spacers down 15mm to have 5mm more preload and i end up w/ a 6-12mm installed preload range. much better.
the bodywork is going on pretty smoothly... better than the prev set. the tank fit better, the tail fit perfectly, the upper only needed minor trimming around the stock windscreen, and i dont need to add fiberglass to make seams line up. i do notice some weakness on the lower, but it aint bad. really, the previous set was NOT worth the extra cost, this Optimal stuff is great. heres the first pic, more later.
two more pieces to install. i finally got tired of the stock HESD (Honda electronic steering damper) and ordered a GPR mounting kit for the V4 i already have. thatll go one quick later tonight. also, i obviously need a throttle tube and i hope the R6 one fits. the housing needs a little grinding but thats ez, all im worried about is the cables. i ordered a stock tube and extra cables just in case. stock on left (1/4 turn), R6 on the right... possible 1/6th turn.
ive got a trackday on Monday at Buttonwillow to sus out all these changes before racing. plz oh plz can i find some confidence in riding fast again. at least i know that track like the back of my hand, cept the new asphalt in Cotton Corners.
stangmx13
not Stan
DONE!
that throttle tube went on easier than the GPR mount bracket. had to notch the tank for the GPR, but i think its cuz the one sold specifically for an 07+ CBR has a shorter arm. the throttle tube fits as long as uve released some slack from the cable at the throttle bodies.
these fairings r bomb. the only holes that didnt get drilled in the recesses were for the windscreen and aftermarket fairing stay, as expected. everything else just fit with minimal trimming; i actually over-trimmed the upper where it meets the tank a bit.
that throttle tube went on easier than the GPR mount bracket. had to notch the tank for the GPR, but i think its cuz the one sold specifically for an 07+ CBR has a shorter arm. the throttle tube fits as long as uve released some slack from the cable at the throttle bodies.
these fairings r bomb. the only holes that didnt get drilled in the recesses were for the windscreen and aftermarket fairing stay, as expected. everything else just fit with minimal trimming; i actually over-trimmed the upper where it meets the tank a bit.
clutchslip
Not as fast as I look.
I luv ya', man. You have more guts and/or skill than me. I don't mess with fork stacks. No, no, no. I can see me losing something or stacking everything upside down.
I used the Yamaha tube on a Honda, too. I will keep the fairings in mind, if I turn the current street bike to track. The only thing I don't like about the GPR is that there is no free space at center to allow the wheel to "float" a bit to absorb small road imperfections. It's more fun to watch you do this, than to do it myself. Thanks.
I used the Yamaha tube on a Honda, too. I will keep the fairings in mind, if I turn the current street bike to track. The only thing I don't like about the GPR is that there is no free space at center to allow the wheel to "float" a bit to absorb small road imperfections. It's more fun to watch you do this, than to do it myself. Thanks.
stangmx13
not Stan
this last time i put one cartridge back together, i had the compression stack back in and thought "shit, did i put the rebound valve on up-side down". took it back apart just to check; it was all good.
I used the Yamaha tube on a Honda, too. I will keep the fairings in mind, if I turn the current street bike to track. The only thing I don't like about the GPR is that there is no free space at center to allow the wheel to "float" a bit to absorb small road imperfections. It's more fun to watch you do this, than to do it myself. Thanks.
u dont want any "float", any range of motion with no damping, on your suspension... why would u want the same for you steering head? i run the GPR on setting 4 or 5 which makes it feel roughly twice as stiff as the stock HESD. as i found out yesterday, MUCH better.
stangmx13
not Stan
bumping my own thread. the bike has gone through a lot since i last posted here, mostly more crashes. i broke 2 ribs and lacerated my spleen towards the end of last year crashing in the fastest corner i race on. so, i bought a new suit, repaired the bike, picked a new color, and kept on racing.
here are some shots of the bike then.
unfortunately, i crashed twice early this year which led to some ghetto paint and duct tape numbers. ive grown to hate masking-off for paint, so my paint designs have gotten less and less detailed.
the most recent crash
the good side
ive been struggling w/ front end feeling all year. in corners w/ a lot of trail braking, the front end folds over bumps. in corners w/ no braking, the front tire feels like it barely loads. all of my crashes ever have been on the front end. ive been running a very stiff rear spring and someone has suggested that the heavy spring is overloading the front end. ive also had way too light of a rebound stack in the forks, so whenever the front tire is unloaded in chicanes, the front end extends really fast and shoots off the ground. but im done wasting money on learning, i just want to race now.
i had a very good experience with Tige at CMMotorsports last time in Fontana. he threw on a softer shock spring, and even with my complete lack of confidence, i made it back to my PR by the end of the day. so the bike is current at his shop getting the shock re-worked and K-tech 25mm cartridges installed. i cant wait to go into a corner and feel that front tire planted.
but after the last crash, i just had to buy some bodywork again. here are some teaser shots of the new paintjob. can u tell that im getting better at painting? this paintjob took about 6hrs total, 3hrs for sanding, 1hrs for prep, and 2hrs for painting. each piece except the upper is only one color, so that helped too. plus, good paint means i dont have to wait 12hrs to mask or in between layers. but the best part is its all still rattlecan. just rly good cans.
glossy, no?
the gf said it reminded her of PowerRangers, other guys said Ironman. i was shooting for Vodafone Mclaren once again
more to come next week when i get the bike back.
here are some shots of the bike then.
unfortunately, i crashed twice early this year which led to some ghetto paint and duct tape numbers. ive grown to hate masking-off for paint, so my paint designs have gotten less and less detailed.
the most recent crash
the good side
ive been struggling w/ front end feeling all year. in corners w/ a lot of trail braking, the front end folds over bumps. in corners w/ no braking, the front tire feels like it barely loads. all of my crashes ever have been on the front end. ive been running a very stiff rear spring and someone has suggested that the heavy spring is overloading the front end. ive also had way too light of a rebound stack in the forks, so whenever the front tire is unloaded in chicanes, the front end extends really fast and shoots off the ground. but im done wasting money on learning, i just want to race now.
i had a very good experience with Tige at CMMotorsports last time in Fontana. he threw on a softer shock spring, and even with my complete lack of confidence, i made it back to my PR by the end of the day. so the bike is current at his shop getting the shock re-worked and K-tech 25mm cartridges installed. i cant wait to go into a corner and feel that front tire planted.
but after the last crash, i just had to buy some bodywork again. here are some teaser shots of the new paintjob. can u tell that im getting better at painting? this paintjob took about 6hrs total, 3hrs for sanding, 1hrs for prep, and 2hrs for painting. each piece except the upper is only one color, so that helped too. plus, good paint means i dont have to wait 12hrs to mask or in between layers. but the best part is its all still rattlecan. just rly good cans.
glossy, no?
the gf said it reminded her of PowerRangers, other guys said Ironman. i was shooting for Vodafone Mclaren once again
more to come next week when i get the bike back.
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clutchslip
Not as fast as I look.
I figured out your problems! Not enough carbon fiber. Stop being such a cheap s.o.b. :teeth The paint looks very good in the photos.
The rear shock causing the front tuck, makes some sense to me. What about the static height? Have you tried changing the geometry? Maybe dropping the rear a bit or maybe even raising the front?
I think this is the first I knew about the injuries. I guess you are okay, now. Don't do that falling off stuff! It's expensive and hurts - Doh.
The rear shock causing the front tuck, makes some sense to me. What about the static height? Have you tried changing the geometry? Maybe dropping the rear a bit or maybe even raising the front?
I think this is the first I knew about the injuries. I guess you are okay, now. Don't do that falling off stuff! It's expensive and hurts - Doh.
stangmx13
not Stan
I figured out your problems! Not enough carbon fiber. Stop being such a cheap s.o.b. :teeth The paint looks very good in the photos.
The rear shock causing the front tuck, makes some sense to me. What about the static height? Have you tried changing the geometry? Maybe dropping the rear a bit or maybe even raising the front?
I think this is the first I knew about the injuries. I guess you are okay, now. Don't do that falling off stuff! It's expensive and hurts - Doh.
Ya, more CF!
I tried every reasonable geometry. Too low at the rear and the bike wouldn't finish corners, no matter how high I went up front. Too high in the rear and the tire would spin and pump. Stiffer front springs helped on the brakes but couldn't keep the front from tucking. Really, I learned a lot about what effects each adjustment would have and can now make correct changes. But changing my rear spring produced the single largest positive change so far. I went down in springrates by 14% which is a huge change. My front springrate change was only 3% and I could feel it. I'm excited about the new setup.
stangmx13
not Stan
the fruits of my labor! im stoked with how it all turned out.
here are a few parts that you all havent seen.
laptimer holder, keyless ignition, and the new fork cartridges
Bazzaz quickshifter. the sensor had a lot of throw when first installed. Bazzaz is pretty close, so i had them shorten the throw and also got a longer shift rod. this should work much better now.
.... and finally, my Drippin' Wet decals on my new paint. i scratched the new ZG Corsa windscreen quite a bit last month when i went down. some 2000grit sandpaper and a DA took out just about all the scratches. the plastic must be pretty soft cuz they came out very easily. now i just gotta paint my Woodcraft brake guard to match.
here are a few parts that you all havent seen.
laptimer holder, keyless ignition, and the new fork cartridges
Bazzaz quickshifter. the sensor had a lot of throw when first installed. Bazzaz is pretty close, so i had them shorten the throw and also got a longer shift rod. this should work much better now.
.... and finally, my Drippin' Wet decals on my new paint. i scratched the new ZG Corsa windscreen quite a bit last month when i went down. some 2000grit sandpaper and a DA took out just about all the scratches. the plastic must be pretty soft cuz they came out very easily. now i just gotta paint my Woodcraft brake guard to match.
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stangmx13
not Stan
i guess i forgot to update this thread after last race round.
those K-tech fork carts made a world of difference. i had more front end confidence all weekend than ive had for the past 1 1/2 years. it was a night and day difference. i def now know a bit more about suspension, know where i went wrong w/ the stock carts, and know why the new parts work. i cut 1.2s off my PR. but the best part of the entire weekend....
my first expert trophy!
given that i didnt have to work on the bike in the small gap before the next round, i had to tinker w/ something else. so, in the spirit of looking good and going fast:
stickers are very very important. found the right materials off of Amazon and printed them myself. they look great from a few feet away.
those K-tech fork carts made a world of difference. i had more front end confidence all weekend than ive had for the past 1 1/2 years. it was a night and day difference. i def now know a bit more about suspension, know where i went wrong w/ the stock carts, and know why the new parts work. i cut 1.2s off my PR. but the best part of the entire weekend....
my first expert trophy!
given that i didnt have to work on the bike in the small gap before the next round, i had to tinker w/ something else. so, in the spirit of looking good and going fast:
stickers are very very important. found the right materials off of Amazon and printed them myself. they look great from a few feet away.
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krumpdancer101
Well-known member
Congrats on your trophy!!!
RightCoastBias
F8TRED
Glad to hear good things about the k-techs, just got some for my street triple and I'm looking forward to getting them in.
stangmx13
not Stan
i left mine at the factory settings all weekend. my tuner said they came great out of the box and he was def right. id prob back them off a little for street use, but those are the 25SSK carts. your IDS carts may be shimmed differently.
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