Reanimating a greybike RVF400 (NC35)

bcj

Spagthorpe RA
I've heard ... (not tried it, but.)
a couple lengths of metal link dog collar to drop in the tank to knock off crust.
If you count how many you put in, then take out the same number, you won't have odd bits stuck in corners.
That can be problematic if you use random nuts, screws or rocks and don't do your accounting properly.
 

RVFRick

Well-known member
Session 46: How not to clean a rusted fuel tank

I've heard ... (not tried it, but.)
a couple lengths of metal link dog collar to drop in the tank to knock off crust.
If you count how many you put in, then take out the same number, you won't have odd bits stuck in corners.
That can be problematic if you use random nuts, screws or rocks and don't do your accounting properly.

I bought 1 gallon of Evaporust rust remover. The stuff works fine, actually, really well, on rusted steel when used by itself. I tested it on some rusted wrenches and needle nose pliers and it saved the pliers from the dump. So I figured Evaporust should work well enough inside a rusted gasoline tank. And for good measure, I ran across various techniques on the inter webs such as nuts and bolts, chain and aquarium gravel. Curious to see for myself I tried a few.

I poured a gallon of Evaporust into the tank then threw in maybe 2 feet of decently sized chain. It didn't go well. After shaking it around in an attempt to scrub the rust away the chain said :twofinger and managed to randomly tie itself into a knot around an internal vent tube that was impossible to see! :wtf If you've ever dealt with a knotted chain you'll know it's a PITA. I resorted to a lighted pen shaped USB camera and a long skinny screwdriver to tease the knot apart and free the chain from the vent tube. Strike 1.

My other genius idea was clean sharp gravel from my yard. Once again, DON'T. Average size was about 3/8"(9mm) and it isn't heavy enough and was impossible to completely shake out. The main opening into a tank isn't a low spot (at least mine isn't) - more like the volcano hole at a mini-golf course. You'd think that flipping the tank upside down and shaking you'll randomly shale the gravel out given enough time. I'd say 99% came out within 10 minutes. The last two pebbles mocked me after a full hour of shaking. :mad

Eventually it took team work: my daughter operating a flex claw retreiver while I maneuvered the USB pen camera connected to my MacBook. Endoscopic procedure was a success. Strike two.

You may ask why I didn't use nut and bolts?I went to the hardware store to buy some but most fasteners are kinda rounded and safe to the hand so I figured they wouldn't do a good job of scraping. I didn't think they'd be sharp enough to scrub. In hindsight maybe they would.

Anyway, I have some triangular tumbling media that I might try.

EDIT: Add photos and clarified process.
 

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backup

Well-known member
Great job so far Rick! I have been slowly reading your thread for the past two days at work and it has been nothing short of inspiring. Being a newer rider, I don't have much knowledge of older bikes and let me tell you - after seeing your RVF, I am smitten. Time to find a project bike of my own and thanks for the inspiration! :thumbup
 

RVFRick

Well-known member
Making progress and getting close to riding her. Tank cleaning up nicely (will post report soon). I think/hope I can ride before carbs synced and dialed in. That said I plan to get new tires and need suggestions. Cost and mileage not a big factor. Fun and suitability are the main considerations.
 

Sharky

Well-known member
Making progress and getting close to riding her. Tank cleaning up nicely (will post report soon). I think/hope I can ride before carbs synced and dialed in. That said I plan to get new tires and need suggestions. Cost and mileage not a big factor. Fun and suitability are the main considerations.

Supercorsas.
 

Sharky

Well-known member
I doubt Rick is going to be doing any races/TDs on his RVF anytime soon, but perhaps I'm wrong. :laughing

I love supercorsas on the street and track, but if he merely wants some street tires for cruising around, I'm sure anything will do.
 

RVFRick

Well-known member
RVF takes front 120/60/17 and rear 150/60/17.

The rear 150 width limits options. Can I go to a 160? I've read I might have to install a spacer and realign the sprocket while others say 160 will fit. Is there a way to calculate before buying and getting an unwelcome surprise?
 

RVFRick

Well-known member
Michelin Pilot Power 2ct’s come in that size. Great tire in my opinion...

Funny are these the same as the RS?

I am leaning toward Michelin Power RS tires - in budget and get great reviews. Anyone with experience?
 

thenewwazoo

esculenta delicta
I’m a Bstone fan. I’ve run a few sets of S2x on my NC and they’re fan-damn-tastic. I ran T30s on the TZR and they were great too, for that matter. I’m pretty sure I had issues getting the DOT race tire in the USA in NC sizes, but Aleks or Wilder at MGTI can sort you out quick.
 

Kestrel

Well-known member
Thanks to all of the 300-400cc bikes, you actually have a fantastic selection of super sport rubber now available in those sizes. I’d probably run a 70 width up front rather than the 60.
 

RVFRick

Well-known member
Thanks to all of the 300-400cc bikes, you actually have a fantastic selection of super sport rubber now available in those sizes. I’d probably run a 70 width up front rather than the 60.

60 and 70 are aspect ratios not widths so would make for a taller sidewall and overall larger diameter wheel.

Did you mean to run a 130 rather than 120 up front?
 

ratlab

Well-known member
Funny are these the same as the RS?

I am leaning toward Michelin Power RS tires - in budget and get great reviews. Anyone with experience?

Great dry weather tire-used them on a R3 at t-hill.nice turn in,lots of grip,stability,and decent under braking.i think it would be a super fun summer street tire.
 

Sharky

Well-known member
60 and 70 are aspect ratios not widths so would make for a taller sidewall and overall larger diameter wheel.

Did you mean to run a 130 rather than 120 up front?

I doubt that's what he means. the 120/60 has a limited tire selection versus the by far more common 120/70. If you can fit a 120/70 under your front fender I would do it if for no other reason but to widen the range of tires in that size. I think for most folks the 120/70 generally turn in better and have better bump absorption too. the difference on overall height is pretty marginal. Most bikes that have clearance issues with the 70 series tire can fit them with a shim or slight modification to the front fender for clearance.
 

RVFRick

Well-known member
Session 47: Running engine 2nd time

I stopped by the bat cave today and decided to run the engine for the second time. I wheeled it out onto the driveway, connected aux tank and fired her up. It took maybe 8 tries before she ran. I fiddled with the choke and it helped to turn it on. In the late afternoon sunlight I readily saw a significant amount of smoke billowing out the exhaust. Also some wafting from the engine compartment. I kept an eye on the engine first thinking it was still residual oil that spilled on the header or other parts of engine during this project. The smoke from the exhaust seemed excessive and not improving. I shut the engine off after 5-6 minutes. Crap. Now what?

I let it cool down for 15 minutes. I popped off the radiator cap and saw the coolant level was not at the top. Also reminded me I had only distilled water in there no coolant. I need to put in coolant to inhibit corrosion but I had none so I topped off with more distilled water, closed the cap and started her up again. This time I saw no smoke at for about two minutes when the fog returned. Dammit!

My theory is I have a coolant leak. I held my hand to the exhaust and it felt moist and didn't smell oily. Not certain by by theory is the bike is low smoke until the cooling system pressurizes which forces a water leak and will then make its way into the engine. Is this a valid theory? What to do next? How to diagnose the problem area?

Leakdown test?
Compression test?
Let it run more maybe it's just oil burning off?
Check coolant level to see if it has dropped?
:(

EDIT: video link of session https://youtu.be/HizwuET0TzA
Does it sound like it's running on 3 cylinders?
Also, the fuel petcock on the RVF400 is vacuum actuated by cylinder 3. Since I was running off an aux tank the vac line was not connected. I should have plugged it - in other words, cylinder 3 was getting excessive air.
 
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GB500guy

Well-known member
Rick, if there was ever oil squirted into the cylinders before or after storage, like to lube before initial start up or prevent corrosion while sitting, then that would be pushed out into the exhaust system. If so it can take quite a bit of running to get the pipes hot enough to burn off the oil. Idling will not do the job, you'll need some high speed WOT blasts to do it quickly, or at least highway running. Might be worth pulling the headers to see if they look oily inside. Also try blowing a good electric heat gun into the header pipes. Turn it to he highest temp and see whether smoke exits the muffler after a time. If so there is oil in the exhaust.

A coolant leak into the combustion chamber will give the exhaust a distinctive smell if you have antifreeze added, so that might be a way to help diagnose. Good luck!

-Bill
 
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