• ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (15 days and 15 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
  • ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (30 days and 30 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.

SOLD - Crashed 2015 Yamaha R3

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Not open for further replies.
Sharky

Sharky

Well-known member
mean dad said:
Another View:
There is no way in hell I'd worry about frame damage from a 15mph incident. If the forks are straight and the bike didn't wobble at speed, I'd call it good and let people talk shit about how their neighbor's kid's buddy's cousin once crashed from a bent frame that happened at 10mph.

Have some competent friends give you a hand and get that thing back on the road.
Click to expand...

What he said. I would bet the forks/frontend would be bent long before the frame. Even if the frame is tweaked slightly, probably wouldn't notice.

if you buy into the collective hand wringing and want to get rid of the bike at or around the insurance buyout, lemme know.
 
mean dad

mean dad

Well-known member
Sharky said:
if you buy into the collective hand wringing and want to get rid of the bike at or around the insurance buyout, lemme know.
Click to expand...

:shhh

If he brings it to my garage I'ma tell him it's totaled so I can use it for my RZ3 project. :ride :laughing
 
R3DS!X

R3DS!X

Whatever that means
vulture-feast-58a6d16e5f9b58a3c90642d2.jpg
 
R

rodzghost

Well-known member
I finally got around to taking off the fairings and working on it a bit.

I bent the stay back as best I could estimate. Looks like only the front cowling and the plastic bits that attach to the headlight need replacing. Side fairings were spared.

Here's some more pics.https://imgur.com/gallery/pB4b4VW
 
mean dad

mean dad

Well-known member
I'll give you the $1600 if you're serious about selling it.

And assuming Mitch doesn't jump on it.
 
Last edited:
R

rodzghost

Well-known member
mean dad said:
I'll give you the $1600 if you're serious about selling it.

And assuming Mitch doesn't jump on it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the only reason for me to fix it at this point is if I don't get any buyers. I'll put you down as second.

It's come down to mostly financial reasons for me, since the repair cost would come about equal to getting a used bike with all the features I'd really want (ABS, heated grips, luggage, belt/shaft drive, among other things).

Ideally, I'd keep this as a track bike, and just replace the whole front end, and upgrade everything (full suspension, full exhaust, ECU, race fairings, etc.) But I just don't have the funds for that.

I'll put you down as second in line. Mitch will be stopping by to check out the bike later this week. I'll let you know if he doesn't want it.
 
295566

295566

Numbers McGee
rodzghost said:
Yeah, the only reason for me to fix it at this point is if I don't get any buyers. I'll put you down as second.

It's come down to mostly financial reasons for me, since the repair cost would come about equal to getting a used bike with all the features I'd really want (ABS, heated grips, luggage, belt/shaft drive, among other things).

Ideally, I'd keep this as a track bike, and just replace the whole front end, and upgrade everything (full suspension, full exhaust, ECU, race fairings, etc.) But I just don't have the funds for that.

I'll put you down as second in line. Mitch will be stopping by to check out the bike later this week. I'll let you know if he doesn't want it.
Click to expand...

Dude, if it was truly financial, you'd fix it for the cost of a used headlight ($200 on eBay), fairing bracket ($100 on eBay), maybe a few other misc parts. All in I'd be surprised if you spent even $400 total. Not to mention you've had a few people here offer to help you with labor, tools, and workspace. Checking to ensure forks are straight is easy, and if it truly was such a low speed collision they're likely fine.

It may not be pretty, for now, but it will ride. Selling it as is you're taking a huge loss. If you don't trust yourself on the bike and/or want something fancier with ABS that's totally fine. But, if it truly is for financial reasons, keeping the bike and fixing/riding it will 100% be the cheapest way forward.
 
R

rodzghost

Well-known member
295566 said:
Dude, if it was truly financial, you'd fix it for the cost of a used headlight ($200 on eBay), fairing bracket ($100 on eBay), maybe a few other misc parts. All in I'd be surprised if you spent even $400 total. Not to mention you've had a few people here offer to help you with labor, tools, and workspace. Checking to ensure forks are straight is easy, and if it truly was such a low speed collision they're likely fine.

It may not be pretty, for now, but it will ride. Selling it as is you're taking a huge loss. If you don't trust yourself on the bike and/or want something fancier with ABS that's totally fine. But, if it truly is for financial reasons, keeping the bike and fixing/riding it will 100% be the cheapest way forward.
Click to expand...

Yes, parts-wise fixing would be cheapest, but part of the cost I'm figuring in is for peace-of-mind. That is, I'd want to get the frame (at minimum) checked out professionally, and the cost of the tow to/from sac would be $450+, and then another $150-$300 for the actual inspection and/or repair. If the forks are toast, then that would add quite a bit to the repair bill ($500 used on ebay) and at that point, it would be better to just part out or sell for a loss.

ABS is the main thing I want out of this, and even selling at a loss, me investing an extra $500 over the cost of repairing it myself is worth it in the long run.

It's been a bit of rollercoaster for me weighing my options, and right now, it just seems selling and upgrading to something with ABS is the best option.

I really do appreciate everyone's advice and offers with assistance. At the very least, I'm learning more about my bike throughout this whole ordeal.
 
mean dad

mean dad

Well-known member
295566 said:
Dude, if it was truly financial, you'd fix it for the cost of a used headlight ($200 on eBay), fairing bracket ($100 on eBay), maybe a few other misc parts. All in I'd be surprised if you spent even $400 total. Not to mention you've had a few people here offer to help you with labor, tools, and workspace. Checking to ensure forks are straight is easy, and if it truly was such a low speed collision they're likely fine.

It may not be pretty, for now, but it will ride. Selling it as is you're taking a huge loss. If you don't trust yourself on the bike and/or want something fancier with ABS that's totally fine. But, if it truly is for financial reasons, keeping the bike and fixing/riding it will 100% be the cheapest way forward.
Click to expand...

Shut up and let him sell his bike. :x :laughing

I wouldn't even go as far as replacing shit right meow. Throw a streetfighter headlight on and call it good while you decide what you're doing next. Could be on the road for fifty bucks.
You can sell it like that after you tidy things up, or ride it until you get the replacement parts and then sell it for more money.
 
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