• ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (15 days and 15 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
  • ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (30 days and 30 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.

SOLD - Crashed 2015 Yamaha R3

Status
Not open for further replies.
R

rodzghost

Well-known member
Alright everyone, I crashed my bike a week or so ago and thought I'd be able to fix her on my own. I might still be able to, but if I can get a good price, I might just end up selling and buying a bike that's ready to ride as this is (was) my main mode of transportation.

As far as the crash goes, I'd estimate I was going about 15mph when I hit the rear bumper of the van in front of me. Inexperience was my downfall (stomped the rear brake, when I should have just swerved).

So, here goes.

2015 Yamaha R3

Miles: 27k (19k put on by me in about a year and a half of ownership).
Front tire has about 500 miles on it, rear needs to be replaced.
Chain/sprockets have about 600 miles on them.
Heated grips, controlled by a Neutrino power distro block that also has heated gear hookups, battery tender plug, usb extension, bluetooth module.
Valves just serviced, along with fresh oil, plugs and air filter during the last tuneup which ran me almost $600.
I just replaced the battery and have been keeping it on the tender.
It has galfer SS braided front brake lines and fresh brake fluid.
Adjustable levers (brake side is scratched from a stationary drop)


The bad:
Needs new headlight, windshield stay, front cowling (windshield still good), and front fairing.
Exhaust is scratched, but part of that was from me squeezing it through a doorway.
There's also a tiny scratch on the left side tail from the crash, and some scratches on the left fork. No leaks.
The frame tab where the stay mounts is slightly bent, which is the main reason I'm considering selling it. If I can't bend it back, it might be more trouble for me than it's worth to repair. I called the guy at GP Frame in Sac, and from our conversation, he seems to think it's repairable, but I haven't made the trek out there just yet.

I priced out some new parts on partzilla for a new cowling, stay, and fairing and it came out to around $100, plus maybe $25 worth of fasteners. Ebay has new headlights going for around $120 shipped. So all in, maybe $250-$300 in parts. If I ship it to Sac for inspection, I'm looking at another $500 roundtrip unless I invest in a hitch for my car plus a trailer rental. If I pay a shop to install it all, prolly around $3-400 dollars. Sorry if I'm rambling, but I'm trying to give an idea of the dilemma I'm facing.

If I can get some cash out of this, I'd like to invest in some classes and another bike, probably with ABS this time.

In all honesty, this would prolly be a perfect bike for a track set up, and not really practical to convert back to street use. I'd love to keep it, but I'm hating the commute from Walnut Creek to SSF in a cage, and can't really afford to have it just sit and not be used.

EDIT: Lowered to $1600.

Open to offers and/or advice.

Oh, and my gear totally saved me during the crash.

Here's the link to the pics.

aL7mAsb.jpg


LVYT8fC.jpg


5XRNhLJ.jpg
 
Last edited:
R

rodzghost

Well-known member
I did have to drive it a bit along the side of the road and it seemed pretty straight. It also didn't seem to pull either way when I was pushing it to its current resting place.

But yes, another thing I was going to check. Thanks for the tip.
 
Shigeta

Shigeta

Moving Chicane
Getting a written, "clean" bill of health by GP Frame will go a long way with helping to sell it. Also, is it clean title or salvage now?

Check out other R3s on CL. That should help you price this bike accordingly given the bike's state, mileage, etc..
 
Biga

Biga

Near Miss Racing #96
I think it's good to look down the bottom of the triple tree, to check if the stop bumpers have been broken or bent.
I've seeing insurance company declared total loss just because of that.
This is one of the first thing I check on the bike when buying one.
166-1357_A.jpg
 
R

rodzghost

Well-known member
Right one on mine got pinched against the stop, but not chipped. Hard to get an angle for a pic, but I could post it up. Paint there looks mushed up, but the metal still feels solid.
 
K

kattrap

Member
You (or buyer) can do some pretty simple disassembly of the front end and bring the triples+fork+wheel+rotor to frame man to check out much cheaper than the whole shibang.

Ask me how I know :)
 
R

rodzghost

Well-known member
kattrap said:
You (or buyer) can do some pretty simple disassembly of the front end and bring the triples+fork+wheel+rotor to frame man to check out much cheaper than the whole shibang.

Ask me how I know :)
Click to expand...

Well, I also need the frame checked as well, but thanks for the tip. otherwise, I'd prolly do just that.
 
splat

splat

Well-known member
You might be better off parting it out.

Frame measuring will run you 120/hour plus straightening. The cosmetics look easy, but it's daunting for a newbie, and unfortunately that's what/who this bike is really targeted for. Not too many veterans will want to take on that project for a "newb bike" because the return simply isn't there.

Do what you need to do, but it's actually cheaper for YOU to fix the bike and ride it for a few more years than it is for you to sell it and buy another.
 
R

rodzghost

Well-known member
True. I have been bouncing back and forth a ton on this. Parts wise yes, cheaper to fix on my own. The only part I'm not confident in is the frame, which ultimately is going to cost me quite a bit to have professionally checked and fixed.

I'm toying with the idea of a part out, but I'm also trying to get back on 2 wheels asap as my 35 mile commute that can take up to 2 hours on some days is just terrible.

I'm hoping to find a track junkie as this imo would be ideal for that.
 
mean dad

mean dad

Well-known member
Another View:
There is no way in hell I'd worry about frame damage from a 15mph incident. If the forks are straight and the bike didn't wobble at speed, I'd call it good and let people talk shit about how their neighbor's kid's buddy's cousin once crashed from a bent frame that happened at 10mph.

Have some competent friends give you a hand and get that thing back on the road.
 
R

rodzghost

Well-known member
Honestly, this is something I was considering as well. Now that the rain is gone, I can finally start working on it (no garage). Hopefully I can get the stay bent back straight and I can get all the plastic pieces to fit. *fingers crossed*

Although, I have been eyeing some older BMW's with ABS and luggage racks...

Thanks for all the input, guys. It's been therapeutic to at least go through my options while I'm stuck in my cage.
 
R

rodzghost

Well-known member
Mitchyslick2 said:
Seems like the perfect chance to convert to a street fighter

There's this kit that's expensive but always thought they looked sweet - https://blklabmotorcycles.com/collections/bodykits/products/61blk-for-the-r3
Click to expand...

I mean, that's not a bad kit, but the plastic pieces I need cost far less than that kit lol. Surprisingly little damage was done to the rest of the bike. Even I decide to replace the can, I'm only looking at about $5-600 total for the broken plastics and new aftermarket slipon.
 
mean dad

mean dad

Well-known member
I have a garage, a decent set of tools, and beer. Looks like I'm about ten or fifteen minutes from you.


You pickin up what I'm puttin down?
 
scootergmc

scootergmc

old and slow
Word of advice from someone who went through your exact experience decades ago: fix it yourself. I insuranced mine and regretted it immediately. Every bike I've crashed since then I've fixed myself. Saved thousands and learned a lot. I too seriously doubt anything is bungled beyond any repair you (with help) could do. Get your parts and fix it up.
 
K

kattrap

Member
rodzghost said:
Well, I also need the frame checked as well, but thanks for the tip. otherwise, I'd prolly do just that.
Click to expand...

The front took the damage at low speed. The frame is probably just as straight as when it left the factory in Indonesia. Get the front end off and checked out, put it back together and see how she runs.

New headlight assembly, probably new "stay 1" 1WD-F8356-00-00, some plastic bits.
 
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