Knowledge Base: Clickable flooring

[Bay Arean]

Its not too bad.
Jig saw. Table saw, Miter saw, and flush cut saw/oscillating tool

Do not get the thin ones.
12mm+

You lay expansion shims on walls then remove after. And baseboard.

On all my jobs everything gets finished flooring AFTER cabinet install

under Dishwasher>should be subfloor.
under stove>finish floor
under refridge >finished floor

IF its finished flooring, make sure you have enough height for the dishwasher or you will have to end up spending alot more for the shorter one to fit.

I wouldnt worry much about the amount you need more to finish the areas under hidden items. It won't cost much more at all. Under a Stove? ~30x30

Have you considered tile ? they have wood look^ and are much more durable, and solid feeling, if done right will last a long time.

"The one we chose thus far is the Core-tec Vinyl planking made from bamboo dust or some such thing (not limestone) with the extra layer of cork underneath so we don't have to roll out underlayment. I mean, we can't even decide on color but that seems to be what tickles our individual expectations."
while this might seem good, its better to lay underlayment down. With the preunderlayment style, what i find it sometimes its sinks in where you do not want it to.

Thanks for very specific info. I wondered about how much clearance the ordered cabinets would leave for dishwasher. While perusing the internet I even found a suggestion that all the new cabinetry be shimmed UP!

I can't remember from here whether dishwasher has those threaded adjusters like other appliances. I kind of figured that, if it did, I could make up for difference. But I will have to find out, to be sure. Will get the measuring tape out when I get home. We are reusing our current dishwasher as it's not that old.



It is my impression that you cut the underneath of baseboard (as well as door framing) so as not to ruin the line if it happens to come around the corner from other rooms. It won't kill me to yank what's there. Our current floor is coved vinyl sheet so there is very little baseboard in place except at threshhold. (Thanks for reminding me that I will have to install some new baseboard which I fortunately have leftover).


As for tile, Ms. BA sort of wants saltillo tile as an alternative. I like the color but not the coldness, hardness and fact that it really shows every speck of dust and dirt very quickly (my folks have it in their kitchen).

Thanks Eldo too. The mental picture is coming into sharper focus about installation.

 

[Sharxfan]

When we redid our floor we didn't go for the bowling alley look I actually went perpendicular to the longest room length. I think it came out better that way.

 

[Bay Arean]

When we redid our floor we didn't go for the bowling alley look I actually went perpendicular to the longest room length. I think it came out better that way.

That's interesting. Our galley kitchen is so dinky it's not an issue but I thought about it. It's about 16 x 8 wall to wall with a big cutout from a hall closet intruding. I think the longest patch unimpeded by cabinetry or appliances is 3 1/2 feet wide.....We're gonna spend a fair bit but it will still be a dinky damn kitchen.

I wonder if the longer run direction helps not make the kitchen look even dinkier that it is.

Another thing is that, if there is going to be expansion, it seems it would be more lengthwise. One end is the doorway and the other end of it longways is a solid wall whereas all the cabinets and appliances sit on the shorter direction side. So I don't know if that factors in worrying out the gaps or not. I mean, I'm leaving the gaps but....

"they" say that there is some relationship with the light source coming in insofar as how you lay the planks but I don't get what the heck they mean. We have one of those garden windows that faces west but the house nextdoor sticks up enough that its never too bright in there. Seeing these pix makes me want to shoot some before and after. Our kitchen is the original everything from 1971. It's shot. But I have avoided the stress of remodeling for all these years because I figured I'd wig out during. Now that Ms. BA is retired I feel a little better about it just because she was always runnin, and so was I.

 

[Sharxfan]

If I get some time I can take a picture and show you how I did it.

 

[250mL]

A bunch more comments:
1) Is the CoreTec really 5/8" thick? Even the 12mm stuff suggested here seems way thicker than most vinyl plank flooring commonly available at the big box stores. Most I see are 5-8mm.

2) If you're removing sheet flooring, will you be removing the particle board sub floor too (not the plywood subfloor)? If so, you'd ordinarily gain that much extra space for appliance height clearance.

3) I believe the light source comment has to do with being able to see the seams, especially if you get flooring with a micro bevel. The way the light through a window will reflect of the floor will highlight the "imperfections" and make seams/bevels show more prominently. Personally, I dislike the bowling alley look too. I too dislike the micro bevel due to it always catching dirt and making sweeping a pain.

4). Your galley kitchen will have flooring only 3.5' wide? There wouldn't be any stagger needed. The planks should fit width wise, cabinet-to-cabinet. At 16' long, you're talking approximately 32 cuts (assuming 6' wide planks). In this case, do it yourself with your own miter saw; conversely, 16' x 3.5' X $3/sqft = $170...pay the guys to do it.

 

[Bay Arean]

A bunch more comments:
1) Is the CoreTec really 5/8" thick? Even the 12mm stuff suggested here seems way thicker than most vinyl plank flooring commonly available at the big box stores. Most I see are 5-8mm.

2) If you're removing sheet flooring, will you be removing the particle board sub floor too (not the plywood subfloor)? If so, you'd ordinarily gain that much extra space for appliance height clearance.

3) I believe the light source comment has to do with being able to see the seams, especially if you get flooring with a micro bevel. The way the light through a window will reflect of the floor will highlight the "imperfections" and make seams/bevels show more prominently. Personally, I dislike the bowling alley look too. I too dislike the micro bevel due to it always catching dirt and making sweeping a pain.

4). Your galley kitchen will have flooring only 3.5' wide? There wouldn't be any stagger needed. The planks should fit width wise, cabinet-to-cabinet. At 16' long, you're talking approximately 32 cuts (assuming 6' wide planks). In this case, do it yourself with your own miter saw; conversely, 16' x 3.5' X $3/sqft = $170...pay the guys to do it.

1) I am pretty sure it's that thick but have to double check at floor store.
2) ya know, I really don't know if there is particle board under there. It will be a revelation that I hadn't even considered, so thanks! . I'm gonna root around and see if there is a spot I can peel back underdishwasher. I realize now, there might be a glue mess too when I take up old vinyl.
3) I can't figure out which would be "worse" in terms of sun. I guess if its longways, you see long seams not the shorter ones.
4) No I am saying that longest run is a portion that goes the whole way. Otherwise the cabinets stick out, so I will be going into smaller rectangles between cabinets and walls for the stove, refer and possibly dishwasher though I might retreat on the last.
5) Floor Store wanted 7.99 sq foot (though I got feeling guy would negotiate. Then he wanted another $3 for installer, making it pretty damn expensive. This is top of the line Core-tec, thats why its pricey. They had some onsale for $5.99 (must have overbought, so I think price will be around there). Core-tec apparently invented the WPC or whatever concept after initial Pergo invention of the tiles. So it's definitely more expensive the Depot or Lowe's versions of something similar, most of whom require underlayment. Interesting thing is that Consumer Reports is about to publish a thing on floors but they didn't test Core-tec brand. We have been online asking about it, which you can do.

But overall, yeah, it's doable. I'm mostly about the under appliance issue at this point, but you guys have really helped. I'm either goin under all three or two out of three based on comments here. Gonna measure dishwasher when I get home and see clearance with printed up stuff from cabinet plans.

 

[liveforlight]

Thanks for very specific info. I wondered about how much clearance the ordered cabinets would leave for dishwasher. While perusing the internet I even found a suggestion that all the new cabinetry be shimmed UP!

are you getting Custom cabinets or RTA?


I can't remember from here whether dishwasher has those threaded adjusters like other appliances. I kind of figured that, if it did, I could make up for difference. But I will have to find out, to be sure. Will get the measuring tape out when I get home. We are reusing our current dishwasher as it's not that old.

They have threaded levelers for the front.



It is my impression that you cut the underneath of baseboard (as well as door framing) so as not to ruin the line if it happens to come around the corner from other rooms. It won't kill me to yank what's there. Our current floor is coved vinyl sheet so there is very little baseboard in place except at threshhold. (Thanks for reminding me that I will have to install some new baseboard which I fortunately have leftover).

If you keep old baseboards, you can imagine it as a wall and leave expansion gap there, then use a quarter round to finish it off (this is typical for installers to do so they don't need to install new baseboards) kinda like "retrofit"


As for tile, Ms. BA sort of wants saltillo tile as an alternative. I like the color but not the coldness, hardness and fact that it really shows every speck of dust and dirt very quickly (my folks have it in their kitchen).

Thanks Eldo too. The mental picture is coming into sharper focus about installation.

Snap some pictures of the area/kitchen and I can fire out ideas and what not


^comment above. stagger your joints on laminate, IF you do not it will cause bulging and finish issues.

 

[Bay Arean]

Custom cabinets
12 mm
Dishwasher is 34 1/4 tall. Incoming cabinets are 34 1/2 before countertops.

Thanks. Still stewin it over but heavily favoring treating the dishwasher as part of cabinets and no flooring under.

Because I don’t have much baseboard in place and don’t need much to install in the end, I’ll probably rip em to keep line from other room. It seems like the baseboard will cover the ends of the things so I wouldn’t need to use corner rounds. We are installing toe kicks after floor on cabinets to achieve the same effect. Hiding ends of flooring without needing super expensive trim.. Looking around, I realize that I will need uneven transitions because I don’t think cork floors are going to end up level like they are now with new stuff.

Oh yeah, I know about stagger. Just like bricks etc etc. Thanks!

 

[250mL]

Just got back from a Lowe's shopping trip and ran by the flooring department. They sell a product "featuring COREtec technology." Prices less than $4/sqft, with an installation promotion going on right now for $1.49/sqft. They also have stone patterns if your wife likes that look better.

https://www.lowes.com/pl/SMARTCORE-Flooring/2488568922

My suggestion with no stagger was assuming you could run full length pieces between cabinets. No need to make staggered cuts if you have 48" lengths to span the distance. Now if you're going with the stone pattern and its 24" lengths, yes, stagger it.

 

[westie]

I've had some problems with the snap products while doing apartment remodels. The product has moved laterally where two of the planks come together creating a gap. Luckily my contractor was willing to fix it but unsure whether or not it will happen again. Sorry, not sure of the manufacturer.

 

[liveforlight]

I've had some problems with the snap products while doing apartment remodels. The product has moved laterally where two of the planks come together creating a gap. Luckily my contractor was willing to fix it but unsure whether or not it will happen again. Sorry, not sure of the manufacturer.

While click flooring seems easy, its down to installer error.

The main problem is during installation

is during the click/hammer block stage
One careless knock and your tongue is damaged. You will still be able to click it in, and jam it in but the joint is not as strong. When that happens you have to trim/shave down the damage, or use another piece. If not your chances of them separating during load increases alot.

 

[Eldritch]

While click flooring seems easy, its down to installer error.

The main problem is during installation

is during the click/hammer block stage
One careless knock and your tongue is damaged. You will still be able to click it in, and jam it in but the joint is not as strong. When that happens you have to trim/shave down the damage, or use another piece. If not your chances of them separating during load increases alot.

I have never used a block and mallet for laminate floors, only hand install.

I would expect it to be destroyed by a the block.

 

[Sharxfan]

Just my 2 cents but even if your planks can cover the whole distance depending on the look of the plank it may look more visually pleasing to have joints in the long runs. I even on some of the short wall to wall spots I put in a few sections with a join in the middle to make it look more pleasing even though I could have gone without it due to length. I think it makes it look more like a wood floor that way.

On the hammer and block method, you can get blocks that have a groove in the middle that goes around the tongue so it does not get damaged.

 

[westie]

Here is a pic of the seperation I was talking about. Normal foot traffic through the kitchen causing the flooring to move. Luckily my contractor warrantied his work.

 

[Bay Arean]

Here is a pic of the seperation I was talking about. Normal foot traffic through the kitchen causing the flooring to move. Luckily my contractor warrantied his work.

That's disturbing!