Why are BMWs so damn cheap?
- Thread starter Doc_V
- Start date
The cost of $2K+ to replace either the clutch friction disk or the rear main seal, or to lube the engine spline is the reason why these oilheads are for sale for cheap. These bikes are essentially totaled based strictly on the book value. Faced with that, most owners just rather sell it while the bike still runs, kind of like the Japanese liter bike owners selling theirs just to avoid the cost of a valve adjustment.
To be fair, these three issues are due to a life limited item wearing out from usage and therefore a maintenance and not a repair issue. And they aren't required until 15+ years or after 60K or 80K miles. How long do the Japanese liter bike wheel bearings and chains last without lube?
BMW's maintenance recommendations can be ludicrous, ie 6K valve adjustments. So who knows when these items will actually wear out to the point of failure. At the price of a new BMW down payment, one could experience riding a BMW possibly for another 25K to 50K. FWIW, my clutch friction disk wore out at 125K.
And honestly, the job to split open the bike is more scary than difficult. The job is doable for DIY because removing the main pieces isn't that hard, four bolts for the rear wheel, two bolts for the muffler, two bolts for the rear brake, two bolts for the rear drive, two bolts for the swing arm, and six bolts for the transmission. Yea, there are the starter, battery, breather box, wires and what not.
To be fair, these three issues are due to a life limited item wearing out from usage and therefore a maintenance and not a repair issue. And they aren't required until 15+ years or after 60K or 80K miles. How long do the Japanese liter bike wheel bearings and chains last without lube?
BMW's maintenance recommendations can be ludicrous, ie 6K valve adjustments. So who knows when these items will actually wear out to the point of failure. At the price of a new BMW down payment, one could experience riding a BMW possibly for another 25K to 50K. FWIW, my clutch friction disk wore out at 125K.
And honestly, the job to split open the bike is more scary than difficult. The job is doable for DIY because removing the main pieces isn't that hard, four bolts for the rear wheel, two bolts for the muffler, two bolts for the rear brake, two bolts for the rear drive, two bolts for the swing arm, and six bolts for the transmission. Yea, there are the starter, battery, breather box, wires and what not.
Last edited:
Kornholio
:wave
Out of all the BMWs R-bikes I've owned, not one has required valve adjustments at 6K, 12K or even 18K miles. Only after that was it necessary to adjust anything. To be perfectly honest, I'm 100% comfortable with not even checking the valves on my R-bikes until they get close to 18K miles or more depending on other circumstances. Experience has told me it's just not necessary. Just change the fluids and adjust the other wear items and go.