Hey there. Gabe tagged me in.
I've had a 2008 KTM 690 Enduro for about 10 years. It's a hard bike to keep running because the throttle-by-wire and EFI implementation kind of sucks.
I haven't seen any mention of these two resets - you should google these.
--> Throttle reset. When you switch on the key, (as the tach is self-testing) roll the throttle open and closed, all the way. Switch off the key.
-->. 15-minute idle reset.
https://advrider.com/f/threads/15-minute-idle-clarification.487468/
Here are the top issues with it:
1) Fuel pump -- it's a sub-size, in-tank fuel pump. The OEM pump burns up the brushes and puts a black smut inside the tank, clogging the filter and injector.
It's also **very** sensitive to contamination introduced via the filler cap, there are fine mesh filter socks that install in the fuel filler to combat this.
There are now non-OEM fuel pumps available, such as CA Cycle Works. No matter which pump you use, they absolutely do not like to be run out of fuel: the fuel returning from the regulator cools the pump. Without an adequate volume of fuel, the pump overheats.
--> Normally, the fuel pumps don't *quit* ... they degrade over time, and this could be the cause. I recommend a replacement pump. I actually have 3 on hand, so PM me, I'll give you a great deal!
2) If the OEM fuel pump has shit the bed and contaminated the fuel with the degraded brushes, then there is almost a 100% certainty that you need to clean the injector.
--> Based on your description, I'd recommend cleaning the injector. Google/YouTube "clean fuel injector" - in a nutshell, you need a can of carb cleaner & a 9v battery.
3) In tank fuel line. There are 2 fuel lines (a high pressure output and a low-pressure return) plus electrical. The fuel lines are quite rigid, and kink easily. They need to be looped correctly and pushed to the left side of the tank when reassembling the fuel pump.
--> This is a cautionary FYI when you replace the pump.
4) Wiring harness. The wiring harness is known to rub and short near the headstock, and roughly at the intersection of the tank and frame on the right side, and also below the battery box - it's a bundle of about 50 wires, it's the diameter of a golf ball, and presses hard against the frame.
-->. It's sort of random what fails when this happens, and it's often very sporadic errors, not like you describe. Typically, it will start throwing random EFI codes on the dash which are false, so check grounds before you start replacing parts.
5) Bad grounds. On the frame next to the upper right tank mount is where the wiring harness grounds to the chassis. The big-heavy wiring harness jiggles and eventually frays the ground wires right at the ring connector. This is a fucking stupid location because you have to remove the tank to service it.
--> I recommend servicing all the rub points and the chassis ground while you have the rear tank loose... it's a PITA to get to.
6) Fuel filtration - there is a fuel line that goes from the regulator to the throttle body and runs on the left side of the chassis just under the seat.
--> I recommend adding a fuel filter and a filler sock to avoid future contamination issues.
With all that said, sometimes the sensors do go bad. I'd recommend downloading the service manual and testing them.
Here are a couple of good resources on ADVrider.com:
https://advrider.com/f/threads/new-and-improved-ktm690-wunderfest.722987/
https://advrider.com/f/threads/the-ktm-690-enduro-thread.1048049/page-654#post-40594452
https://advrider.com/f/threads/ktm-690-efi-2008-2013-idiots-guide.931664/
