TROUBLESHOOT:KTM 690 Duke Helll(p)!!!

[auntiebling]

Dani i don't want to discourage you but,... you mentioned Praying. these machines speak German. you should learn to swear at them in their native tongue, because they'll just ignore you if you don't.

 

[Darkness!]

Dani i don't want to discourage you but,... you mentioned Praying. these machines speak German. you should learn to swear at them in their native tongue, because they'll just ignore you if you don't.

:laughing:laughing:laughing

 

[horsepower]

:laughing Das ist gut

 

[Yakko Warner]

Throttle body sync?

[Ah. Nothing to sync with. How embarrassing.]

I ain't no mechanic, and I don't have a KTM, but since these are idle problems, perhaps do a throttle body sync? Though I read KTM gives no instructions on how to do it.

 

[Clem Kevin]

No updates yet, but Thabks to the great answers I think I have a good game plan.
1) general tune up ,Replace spark plug, check valve clearance, fresh gas , check fuel lines and fuel filter. Someone told me that this year needs a valve adjustment in the first 2500 miles if I read my service manual.
Pray
2) possibly replace the throttle sensor, possibly The oxygen sensor.
Cross fingers
3) replace the missing washer with the 3 holes and/ or remove the PC5
4)Scout for an impossible to find stock pipe
Cross toes

Come ride that sucker up to Petrolia once it's running. :ride That's the perfect bike up here.

 

[kuksul08]

My old Ducati would die randomly and it turned out to be the charcoal canister dumping straight gas into the intake and it would bog out. Removed it and never had a problem.

I've had other bikes with idle issues solved by cleaning the idle air actuator passages with a spray cleaner. They were gunked up with oil.

 

[Lucytriple]

I would ditch the PCV and use TuneEcu to load a different map.
Looks like there’s one on the list here that had the Leo Vince, as well as one that mentions the stalling issue resolved:
https://tuneecu.net/AustrianCustomMapList.html
I have the cable and setup to load if you want to borrow.

I second this and a new fuel filter and a hearty load test on the battery.

 

[steven]

rectifier

 

[DannoXYZ]

2) possibly replace the throttle sensor, possibly The oxygen sensor.
Cross fingers
3) replace the missing washer with the 3 holes and/ or remove the PC5
4)Scout for an impossible to find stock pipe
Cross toes

Don't randomly replace parts without testing them first to verity with numbers that they are indeed bad. Otherwise, you're replacing perfectly good parts with brand-new perfectly good parts and nothing will change. I've seen people replace injectors, fuel-pumps, fuel-hoses, fuel-rails, FPRs, O2-sensors, TPS, MAP/MAF sensors, when the only thing they needed to do was adjust TPS with multimeter.

As mentioned, remove PC and restore back to 100% stock condition. Bike ran perfeclty fine when it left showroom floor and it's the mods that broke it. Common issues with PC:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/623607-power-commander-problems.html
https://www.supermotojunkie.com/threads/power-commander-v-help.145793/
https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/f94/unplugging-power-commander-on-my-919-a-17192.html

Restore EVERYTHING back to stock, and repair ALL hacked up wiring with proper linesman knot/splice with soldering and heatshrink wrap. Bike will run awesomely after restoring back to stock. I've done at least 20 repair restorations by removing PC and it was 1000% better afterwards. Including my own CBR600RR which came with PC when I bought it. It had an off-idle stumble and mid-range laziness that I thought was due to Yosh titanium exhaust. Tried every single map from Dynojet site, nothing worked. Finally I removed the PC and repaired all cut and crimped wires to restore back to stock and it ran like SCALDED CAT!!! Wow!!


youtu.be/O-ymw7d_nYo

If you must adjust mapping to account for mods (slip-ons don't need tuning, full-exhaust would). Then it's best to re-program ECU itself. So, so much better than PC. Lots of software that can do it: FlashTune, TuneECU, Woolich, etc.

 

[89fj]

opcorn

 

[Hank Wong]

My money is on the lack of valve adjustment, i.e. one of the exhaust valves is too tight.

 

[chrisweir.com]

My money is on the lack of valve adjustment, i.e. one of the exhaust valves is too tight.

*me*

Intermittent=fuel or electrical not mechanical.

I like the PC removal as step 1. Fast easy and free.

 

[horsepower]

My money is on the lack of valve adjustment, i.e. one of the exhaust valves is too tight.

That was also my mechanics guess so let’s see if you are right.

*me*

Intermittent=fuel or electrical not mechanical.

I like the PC removal as step 1. Fast easy and free.

Is there any consequence to doing this ? Ie. Could it potentially make it worse or throw off the timing elsewhere ?

 

[Hank Wong]

That was also my mechanics guess so let’s see if you are right.

Is there any reason that you are not listening to the professional diagnosis rather than soliciting wild ass guesses from the peanut gallery?

 

[Tom G]

Dani i don't want to discourage you but,... you mentioned Praying. these machines speak German. you should learn to swear at them in their native tongue, because they'll just ignore you if you don't.

Austrian That is a different German accent.

 

[Whammy]

drain the fuel..... start over. drain the tank.
New fresh gas.
Lots of good info here , unfortunately all time consuming to find the culprit-s

 

[DannoXYZ]

*me*

Intermittent=fuel or electrical not mechanical.

I like the PC removal as step 1. Fast easy and free.

Is there any consequence to doing this ? Ie. Could it potentially make it worse or throw off the timing elsewhere ?

No, PC sits in between your ECU and injectors/coils and modifies the signal. Your bike is running like crap because the injector and ignition signals are changed from stock settings that worked great from factory. By removing the PC, you are removing device that's messing up good signals from your ECU to injectors & coils. You are fixing the problem by removing the item that's messing with factory programming.

Be sure to really, really repair how PC was tapped in to get power and ground. A lot of people do hack job with wire-twisting and electrical tape or crimp connectors. Be sure to repair by tying and soldering any cut wires done during installation and cover with shrink-wrap to avoid shorts.

 

[horsepower]

That was also my mechanics guess so let’s see if you are right.

Is there any reason that you are not listening to the professional diagnosis rather than soliciting wild ass guesses from the peanut gallery?

No, Hank. The problem is that even the “professionals “ weren’t sure about what step to take and the initial remove the PC pos and return to stock pipe wasn’t possible due to no stock pipe being available. Not even my very talented professional mechanic was 100% sure of what move to make first without the Dyno diagnostic coming back the way it did .
I have found that when one throws an issue out to the Barf, one often scores a home run. Sure some are bloopers but most of this is gold considering that the internet is fragmented with glimpses of all of this. At least someone in the future can benefit as well , get it all laid out in one place.

 

[89fj]

was there any progress made yet?

 

[DannoXYZ]

What happens when you put on aftermarket performance exhaust is you typically get an increase in total flow... at high-RPMs and WOT only. In mid-range RPMs and partial-throttle, you actually end up with less flow than stock.

So... there's no harm in removing PC and running stock ECU mapping. Even with aftermarket exhaust. Just don't use WOT and don't go above 75% of redline. This avoids possible lean mixtures in areas that would typically require more fuel than stock. You'll end up richer than stock (safer), in partial-throttle mid-range.