A bike wash might could happen.
But no, I'm not wearing a bikini.
:laughing
Cool stuff.
The show stuff must be fun for ya.
RZ350 re-frame... classic 2-stroke gets modern upgrade
- Thread starter Frame Maker
- Start date
:laughing
Cool stuff.
The show stuff must be fun for ya.
Frame Maker
Well-known member
Part 4: building the prototype frame (DBC version)
Getting back to the story, the first batch of laser cut parts arrived on time. Then the bent tubing for the main frame rails was ready a week early. DBC still had not been announced. So this meant that I would have everything ready and just waiting for the magic word from Dirtbag HQ.
20200721_160014 by andbike, on Flickr
On August 24 we got the "GO"!
DBC GO by andbike, on Flickr
First order of business would be to build the swingarms... yes, swingarms plural. Since this goal of this project is to develop duplicate frames with multiple set-up options, I decided to build 2 sets of prototype frames and swingarms with one set being built up and ridden for Dirtbag.
I start with machining the bits that will become the eccentric cups. Since these are similar on the swingarm and on the frame, I decide to build both the swingam and frame cups at same time.
The cups begin with threaded bungs that are cupped on one side. These are then welded to short section of tube. In one photo you can see a small plate that is used to hold the bungs at proper spacing during welding. The welded assemblies are then cut with a slitting saw. Then last step is to true the faces. Because the welds will be right at the edge of the large tubing, I intentionally start with the tubing a little long and then face to correct length at the last step.
20200830_143252 by andbike, on Flickr
20200830_180148 by andbike, on Flickr
20200901_143528 by andbike, on Flickr
20200901_143304 by andbike, on Flickr
Oh look, also made some swingarm pivot tubes
20200902_111610 by andbike, on Flickr
Next is to begin bending some tubing for the swingarm hoop and the legs. Then the tubing all gets notched ("fish mouthed"). I use the plywood fixture to help hold the bent tubing in place. Other tubes are just clamped and positioned using an angle gauge. Once I have a set-up in place its easy to duplicate the cuts. I also make an extra part from each process that can be used for reference later.
20200902_130810 by andbike, on Flickr
20200903_115435 by andbike, on Flickr
20200902_181308 by andbike, on Flickr
20200903_175442 by andbike, on Flickr
20200904_183834 by andbike, on Flickr
Around this time, a little package arrives from China. It feels like Christmas!
20200911_165247 by andbike, on Flickr
20200912_115242 by andbike, on Flickr
To be continued...
Getting back to the story, the first batch of laser cut parts arrived on time. Then the bent tubing for the main frame rails was ready a week early. DBC still had not been announced. So this meant that I would have everything ready and just waiting for the magic word from Dirtbag HQ.
20200721_160014 by andbike, on FlickrOn August 24 we got the "GO"!
DBC GO by andbike, on FlickrFirst order of business would be to build the swingarms... yes, swingarms plural. Since this goal of this project is to develop duplicate frames with multiple set-up options, I decided to build 2 sets of prototype frames and swingarms with one set being built up and ridden for Dirtbag.
I start with machining the bits that will become the eccentric cups. Since these are similar on the swingarm and on the frame, I decide to build both the swingam and frame cups at same time.
The cups begin with threaded bungs that are cupped on one side. These are then welded to short section of tube. In one photo you can see a small plate that is used to hold the bungs at proper spacing during welding. The welded assemblies are then cut with a slitting saw. Then last step is to true the faces. Because the welds will be right at the edge of the large tubing, I intentionally start with the tubing a little long and then face to correct length at the last step.
20200830_143252 by andbike, on Flickr
20200830_180148 by andbike, on Flickr
20200901_143528 by andbike, on Flickr
20200901_143304 by andbike, on FlickrOh look, also made some swingarm pivot tubes
20200902_111610 by andbike, on FlickrNext is to begin bending some tubing for the swingarm hoop and the legs. Then the tubing all gets notched ("fish mouthed"). I use the plywood fixture to help hold the bent tubing in place. Other tubes are just clamped and positioned using an angle gauge. Once I have a set-up in place its easy to duplicate the cuts. I also make an extra part from each process that can be used for reference later.
20200902_130810 by andbike, on Flickr
20200903_115435 by andbike, on Flickr
20200902_181308 by andbike, on Flickr
20200903_175442 by andbike, on Flickr
20200904_183834 by andbike, on FlickrAround this time, a little package arrives from China. It feels like Christmas!
20200911_165247 by andbike, on Flickr
20200912_115242 by andbike, on FlickrTo be continued...
Frame Maker
Well-known member
Thanks Budman!
By show, I assume you're referring to the One Show in Portland. Yes, its a lot of fun, but also a lot of work to prepare and many hours of driving. The first three times I went I had a mini van that I could get a bike into and keep it out of the weather. These past two times I no longer had the comfort of a van, so I built plywood boxes onto the back of my daughter's truck that would keep the bikes clean and dry. So lots of prep work getting those ready. Once in Portland I stay with a good friend. Clive is a super cool guy and very much into custom bikes so we always have a good time.
Frame Maker
Well-known member
Thanks everyone. I appreciate the props!
As for "making it seam so easy"... I think life is funny that way. I've always been good at making things. On the other hand, put me in a room full of people and I have no clue what to do. A good friend of mine could walk into a bar full of strangers and by the end of the night be best friends with everyone in the place. I have no idea how he does that.
I remember taking a beginning drawing class my first semester in design school. We were learning the basics of light and shadows. One day the instructor decided to show us samples of what the fourth semester students were working on. They were creating these beautiful renderings of robotic chrome creatures. We were blown away and all of us had the same thought... there was no way we could do that! Of course by the time we got to fourth semester we had the knowledge of how to render something to look like chrome, and a little more confidence in our abilities. When we got to the chrome creature assignment it was very easy.
So I guess like most things in life, it all comes down to a little understanding of the process, and a bunch of confidence in executing on the process.
20170529_153826 by andbike, on Flickr
Frame Maker
Well-known member
I actually do. I have a race team on the east coast who will be getting a prototype frame and another person (street rider) locally who will also be building one of the prototype frames. If you were a little closer I'd invite you to take a ride. Getting feedback from the perspective of others is part of my process. When I built my AK-1 frames, it was very helpful having the feedback from my two riders. Their feedback led to a major design change which greatly improved the ergonomics (and the look) of the bike.
Last edited:
Frame Maker
Well-known member
Part 4: building the prototype frame (continued)
With two swingarms complete, its time to begin the frames. The process is the same... rough cut the tubing, notch as needed, then a little hand finishing with a file till the fit is nice. Use plywood fixtures as need. Then tack weld in place on the main frame fixture. Keep in mind that the frame is being built upside-down in the fixture.
The most challenging part of the process is getting the tubes notched in the correct positions. Sometimes I'll intentionally cut a little on the long side and take incremental cuts after that till the fit is nearly perfect. Many of the simple horizontal cut I'll do on my big Hitachi mill since it is a horizontal machine and very rigid. More complex cuts I'll do on my Bridgeport mill since it has the ability to swing the head in two axis.
Here are a few of photos of the cutting, notching, and fitting process:
20200911_155556 by andbike, on Flickr
20200911_164941 by andbike, on Flickr
20200911_190140 by andbike, on Flickr
20200912_114319 by andbike, on Flickr
20200912_175510 by andbike, on Flick
20200912_144012 by andbike, on Flickr
With a few basic tubes tacked in place I can now take what I've started out of the fixture for an initial inspection:
20200916_165849 by andbike, on Flickr
With everything looking good so far, its back into the fixture for a few more pieces to be added...
20200919_133838 by andbike, on Flickr
20200919_145654 by andbike, on Flickr
20200919_173746 by andbike, on Flickr
Then back out of the fixture for another inspection. Still looking good...
20200920_105938 by andbike, on Flickr
There are large and small metal gussets and each will have a large radius bend to match the frame tubes. I've made a special press tool for forming the bends. The sheet metal laser cut to approximate size (with the bend calculated). Notice the alignment features added at each end. Those are to be trimmed off after forming.
20200920_110447 by andbike, on Flickr
20200920_121120 by andbike, on Flickr
20200920_123425 by andbike, on Flickr
The fit is nearly perfect. I love it when the CAD is correct!
20200920_123445 by andbike, on Flickr
20200920_123508 by andbike, on Flickr
The frame is asymmetric on the bottom to allow for better exhaust clearance on the right side, so the long gussets going on the right side get trimmed...
20200920_133452 by andbike, on Flickr
Now comes one of the more challenging operations on the whole build. The long gussets need to get a large round notch cut where the swingarm holders will fit. This requires cutting the notches with a very large hole saw while the frame is held in the fixture while on the mill. First step is to completely disassembly the frame fixture and VERY carefully move it to the table of my big mill. I don't have an exact weight for the fixture, but good guess is 150lbs or more. Lets just say, its not exactly something that is easy to just pick up and set down someplace else... although that's about how I would move it. A few days later I have a friend assist me with moving it back to the rack it normally sits on.
On the mill and re-assembled...
20200920_200639 by andbike, on Flickr
With two swingarms complete, its time to begin the frames. The process is the same... rough cut the tubing, notch as needed, then a little hand finishing with a file till the fit is nice. Use plywood fixtures as need. Then tack weld in place on the main frame fixture. Keep in mind that the frame is being built upside-down in the fixture.
The most challenging part of the process is getting the tubes notched in the correct positions. Sometimes I'll intentionally cut a little on the long side and take incremental cuts after that till the fit is nearly perfect. Many of the simple horizontal cut I'll do on my big Hitachi mill since it is a horizontal machine and very rigid. More complex cuts I'll do on my Bridgeport mill since it has the ability to swing the head in two axis.
Here are a few of photos of the cutting, notching, and fitting process:
20200911_155556 by andbike, on Flickr
20200911_164941 by andbike, on Flickr
20200911_190140 by andbike, on Flickr
20200912_114319 by andbike, on Flickr
20200912_175510 by andbike, on Flick
20200912_144012 by andbike, on FlickrWith a few basic tubes tacked in place I can now take what I've started out of the fixture for an initial inspection:
20200916_165849 by andbike, on FlickrWith everything looking good so far, its back into the fixture for a few more pieces to be added...
20200919_133838 by andbike, on Flickr
20200919_145654 by andbike, on Flickr
20200919_173746 by andbike, on FlickrThen back out of the fixture for another inspection. Still looking good...
20200920_105938 by andbike, on FlickrThere are large and small metal gussets and each will have a large radius bend to match the frame tubes. I've made a special press tool for forming the bends. The sheet metal laser cut to approximate size (with the bend calculated). Notice the alignment features added at each end. Those are to be trimmed off after forming.
20200920_110447 by andbike, on Flickr
20200920_121120 by andbike, on Flickr
20200920_123425 by andbike, on FlickrThe fit is nearly perfect. I love it when the CAD is correct!
20200920_123445 by andbike, on Flickr
20200920_123508 by andbike, on FlickrThe frame is asymmetric on the bottom to allow for better exhaust clearance on the right side, so the long gussets going on the right side get trimmed...
20200920_133452 by andbike, on FlickrNow comes one of the more challenging operations on the whole build. The long gussets need to get a large round notch cut where the swingarm holders will fit. This requires cutting the notches with a very large hole saw while the frame is held in the fixture while on the mill. First step is to completely disassembly the frame fixture and VERY carefully move it to the table of my big mill. I don't have an exact weight for the fixture, but good guess is 150lbs or more. Lets just say, its not exactly something that is easy to just pick up and set down someplace else... although that's about how I would move it. A few days later I have a friend assist me with moving it back to the rack it normally sits on.
On the mill and re-assembled...
20200920_200639 by andbike, on Flickr
Frame Maker
Well-known member
With the frame now back in the fixture and positioned on the mill table, its ready to notch each side. I have indexing holes in the risers blocks that I use to locate the the center of each cutting operation. Using the indexing holes, I position the machine for each cut, then remove the riser blocks and make the cut. First on one side, then the complete assembly gets rotated 180 degrees, re-positioned, then make the cut on the opposite side.
20200920_174628 by andbike, on Flickr
20200920_175756 by andbike, on Flickr
With the big notches completed, its ready for the first test assembly... and my first OH SHIT moment!
20200921_201540 by andbike, on Flickr
To be continued...
20200920_174628 by andbike, on Flickr
20200920_175756 by andbike, on FlickrWith the big notches completed, its ready for the first test assembly... and my first OH SHIT moment!
20200921_201540 by andbike, on FlickrTo be continued...
Lonster
GaMMa RaNGeR
Keep me in mind. I can be very flexible with my schedule and location.
Frame Maker
Well-known member
The prototype is currently apart for some design changes, but we can keep the conversation going. Let me know the next time you're in the bay area. Meeting in person and getting to know each other would be a good first start.
Frame Maker
Well-known member
Thank you Dan. Your comments are much appreciated. By the way, the work you did on your Concours project was no small task. I very much enjoyed reading through your thread. You put a lot of time and detailed thought into every detail of the conversion. Very well done!
With the frame now back in the fixture and positioned on the mill table, its ready to notch each side. I have indexing holes in the risers blocks that I use to locate the the center of each cutting operation. Using the indexing holes, I position the machine for each cut, then remove the riser blocks and make the cut. First on one side, then the complete assembly gets rotated 180 degrees, re-positioned, then make the cut on the opposite side.
With the big notches completed, its ready for the first test assembly... and my first OH SHIT moment!
To be continued...
Looks sweet! :thumbup
bergmen
Well-known member
Frame Maker
Well-known member
Part 4: building the prototype frame (continued)
My design process includes building an accurate CAD model of the frame and other bits that I'll be fabricating. However, existing parts aren't always accurately represented in the CAD model. The most obvious is the engine. I do enter the mounting points into CAD. I also include a side-view photo that is scaled very close to 100% that I can use for side profile reference. Other than that, I don't have an accurate 3D representation of the engine, so this leaves some guess work and many small details can be overlooked.
With the initial engine fitment (above photo) I discover a few areas of interference. First, the large round holders for the swingarm cups are extremely close to the cases. I kinda expected they would be close, but maybe not as close. Then at the front of the engine there are several areas of interference. First being the right side radiator hose. This would require machining a pocket into the front mounting plate. Next, the support bosses behind the mounting plates interfere with the engine cases because of draft on the case castings which I didn't account for. So these will also need to have some material machined away. All in all, not too bad. I carefully mark the areas that need to be trimmed with a Sharpie and prepare to do so minor modifications to these parts. Not really a big deal in the grand scheme of things.
I feel comfortable that I can proceed with the frame construction as designed and only need minor adjusting of the smaller CNC machined parts. Next steps are to get the frame on wheels and begin on the rear sub-frame. I also want to verify that both rear suspension configurations are fitting properly. There is a configuration for a single shock using a TZR250 3XV swingarm, and a more custom dual shock version using my own swingarm and dual Ohlins shocks from a Yamaha snowmobile.
20200927_110958 by andbike, on Flickr
20200927_171415 by andbike, on Flickr
Both rear suspension configurations fit well, so I move on to the sub-frame. The main frame is accurately modeled in CAD, but the rear sub-frame is modeled very rough. There are too many complex existing parts that need to fit to it, so construction the the sub-frame is mostly figured out on the fly. I start with fitting the tank, then moving rearward adding seat mounts, battery box, brackets for electrical component, and ending at the tail light. Oh, and one other detail... since Dirtbag is now a 3-day event with two nights of camping I'll need some provision for securing a tent and sleeping bag to the bike. So a utility rack will be integrated into the sub-frame. Its likely to be fugly, but I'll plan to remove it and add a proper race tail later.
20200929_143559 by andbike, on Flickr
20200929_143613 by andbike, on Flickr
20200929_145341 by andbike, on Flickr
Wait, there is one more process that I almost forgot about. This bike still needs to get a VIN and DMV title. So here's what needs to happen... the tail light I plan to use doesn't have the little white license plate light that is required by the vehicle code. I also don't plan to use turn signals (I know, I'm a bad boy). However I will need these items to pass a "brake and lamp inspection". If you look close you'll see temporary brackets welded to the end of the sub-frame. These are for mounting the stock OEM tail light (which has the required license plate light) and turn signals.
20201005_102553 by andbike, on Flickr
First stop on the list is CHP for an initial inspection and assignment of a CA VIN "blue tag". The blue tag is what the state of California requires on all home built vehicles to act as the VIN. These tags are applied by a qualified inspection officer at the CHP.
The first complication in this process is getting an appointment with the CHP. It is now late August. Time is running out on my build window and my local CHP inspector has been temporarily re-assigned to traffic duty in one of the fire areas. CHP policy is that you are first required to use the field office closest to your home. For me this is the Dublin office... but my inspection officer isn't available and no one knows when he'll be back. At the time I was helping a friend in Tracy with a project so I stop at the Tracy CHP office and explain the situation. The inspection officer there is very sympathetic, but stalls so that he has a few days to get an okay from the Dublin office to look at my bike. This takes up another week or so. By then the Dublin inspection officer is back in and I'm able to make an appointment. Yeh, finally!
I have six or seven other motorcycles that have been "blue tagged" for various reasons. The actual tag is a thin aluminum foil with super strong adhesive on the back. It also has a small hole at each end for the option of adding rivets. Ive always opted to not use the rivets. I arrive for my inspection and all goes well. The bike doesn't need to run, it just needs to have the appearance of a complete vehicle. We discuss placement of the blue tag and I suggest a location forward on the frame near the steering head as where you'd normally find the VIN location. We have a brief discussion about the use of rivets (or not) and the officer goes inside to complete the paperwork. After a longer than normal duration he comes out and says that he's decided that he's NOT going to put a tag on my motorcycle since I don't want to drill holes in the frame for rivets. He suggests that I add an "extra plate" somewhere that I can safely drill holes into. Oh, and by the way, he's taking a medical leave for 5 weeks. Fuck! He must have felt my frustration and offers to re-inspect the bike and apply the tag if I can return the next day.
Back home, I add the plate which is larger than I visualized and in an area where I had planned to add some diagonal bracing later on. So I decide to put in the diagonals at the same time to make sure everything fits and I still have space for the plate.
20201007_112655 by andbike, on Flickr
Bike is back together and off to the CHP again...
20201007_173250 by andbike, on Flickr
Success! I get the blue tag!
20201008_110735 by andbike, on Flickr
Next step is to get the bike running and off to an inspection station for the brake and lamp inspection. There is some gray area to this part of the process. Several years ago you could go to any moto mechanic and have him verify that the lights and brakes are working and they would sign a simple statement of facts. Now DMV wants official certificates which most moto repair shops don't have. The only exception is if there isn't a repair shop in your area with the proper certificates. The closest shop is in Castro Valley and I'm in Livermore. According to the DMV this IS in my area.
I've used the shop in Castro Valley before and the tech there is SUPER picky about details. One time he failed me because the earlier mentioned license plate light was visible from the rear. Apparently that is not acceptable. Another time he failed me because my rear brake was slightly spongy (he wants the pedal to be rock hard). So what would go wrong this time I thought? Both brakes were rock hard. No white lights were visible from the rear. Everything worked including a horn (which isn't checked).
The inspection goes perfect... till we get inside to do the paperwork. Crap, now what? On the CHP paperwork they list the model year as "0000". The tech says this isn't correct. He wants a specific year. I mention that I have two other bikes titled as SPCN (special construction) and that those vehicles also show the model year as four zeros. The owner of the shop jumps into the conversation and suggests that he do the same. At this point he is getting very agitated and suggests that I go to DMV to have them confirm the year then come back and get the certificates. Time is running out. If I'm going to make Dirtbag I don't have time to do that. Extremely reluctantly he fills out the certificates with the "0000" year and I'm off to DMV.
By some strange act of God, I'm in and out of the DMV in about 20 minutes with NO APPOINTMENT! This isn't my first beauty pageant so I have everything in order and the process goes perfectly! The next day I call the owner of the shop in Castro Valley just as a courtesy to let him know that DMV also recorded the year as "0000". He is much appreciative.
I can now cut off the temporary tail light brackets and finish the back of the sub-frame.
to be continued...
My design process includes building an accurate CAD model of the frame and other bits that I'll be fabricating. However, existing parts aren't always accurately represented in the CAD model. The most obvious is the engine. I do enter the mounting points into CAD. I also include a side-view photo that is scaled very close to 100% that I can use for side profile reference. Other than that, I don't have an accurate 3D representation of the engine, so this leaves some guess work and many small details can be overlooked.
With the initial engine fitment (above photo) I discover a few areas of interference. First, the large round holders for the swingarm cups are extremely close to the cases. I kinda expected they would be close, but maybe not as close. Then at the front of the engine there are several areas of interference. First being the right side radiator hose. This would require machining a pocket into the front mounting plate. Next, the support bosses behind the mounting plates interfere with the engine cases because of draft on the case castings which I didn't account for. So these will also need to have some material machined away. All in all, not too bad. I carefully mark the areas that need to be trimmed with a Sharpie and prepare to do so minor modifications to these parts. Not really a big deal in the grand scheme of things.
I feel comfortable that I can proceed with the frame construction as designed and only need minor adjusting of the smaller CNC machined parts. Next steps are to get the frame on wheels and begin on the rear sub-frame. I also want to verify that both rear suspension configurations are fitting properly. There is a configuration for a single shock using a TZR250 3XV swingarm, and a more custom dual shock version using my own swingarm and dual Ohlins shocks from a Yamaha snowmobile.
20200927_110958 by andbike, on Flickr
20200927_171415 by andbike, on FlickrBoth rear suspension configurations fit well, so I move on to the sub-frame. The main frame is accurately modeled in CAD, but the rear sub-frame is modeled very rough. There are too many complex existing parts that need to fit to it, so construction the the sub-frame is mostly figured out on the fly. I start with fitting the tank, then moving rearward adding seat mounts, battery box, brackets for electrical component, and ending at the tail light. Oh, and one other detail... since Dirtbag is now a 3-day event with two nights of camping I'll need some provision for securing a tent and sleeping bag to the bike. So a utility rack will be integrated into the sub-frame. Its likely to be fugly, but I'll plan to remove it and add a proper race tail later.
20200929_143559 by andbike, on Flickr
20200929_143613 by andbike, on Flickr
20200929_145341 by andbike, on FlickrWait, there is one more process that I almost forgot about. This bike still needs to get a VIN and DMV title. So here's what needs to happen... the tail light I plan to use doesn't have the little white license plate light that is required by the vehicle code. I also don't plan to use turn signals (I know, I'm a bad boy). However I will need these items to pass a "brake and lamp inspection". If you look close you'll see temporary brackets welded to the end of the sub-frame. These are for mounting the stock OEM tail light (which has the required license plate light) and turn signals.
20201005_102553 by andbike, on FlickrFirst stop on the list is CHP for an initial inspection and assignment of a CA VIN "blue tag". The blue tag is what the state of California requires on all home built vehicles to act as the VIN. These tags are applied by a qualified inspection officer at the CHP.
The first complication in this process is getting an appointment with the CHP. It is now late August. Time is running out on my build window and my local CHP inspector has been temporarily re-assigned to traffic duty in one of the fire areas. CHP policy is that you are first required to use the field office closest to your home. For me this is the Dublin office... but my inspection officer isn't available and no one knows when he'll be back. At the time I was helping a friend in Tracy with a project so I stop at the Tracy CHP office and explain the situation. The inspection officer there is very sympathetic, but stalls so that he has a few days to get an okay from the Dublin office to look at my bike. This takes up another week or so. By then the Dublin inspection officer is back in and I'm able to make an appointment. Yeh, finally!
I have six or seven other motorcycles that have been "blue tagged" for various reasons. The actual tag is a thin aluminum foil with super strong adhesive on the back. It also has a small hole at each end for the option of adding rivets. Ive always opted to not use the rivets. I arrive for my inspection and all goes well. The bike doesn't need to run, it just needs to have the appearance of a complete vehicle. We discuss placement of the blue tag and I suggest a location forward on the frame near the steering head as where you'd normally find the VIN location. We have a brief discussion about the use of rivets (or not) and the officer goes inside to complete the paperwork. After a longer than normal duration he comes out and says that he's decided that he's NOT going to put a tag on my motorcycle since I don't want to drill holes in the frame for rivets. He suggests that I add an "extra plate" somewhere that I can safely drill holes into. Oh, and by the way, he's taking a medical leave for 5 weeks. Fuck! He must have felt my frustration and offers to re-inspect the bike and apply the tag if I can return the next day.
Back home, I add the plate which is larger than I visualized and in an area where I had planned to add some diagonal bracing later on. So I decide to put in the diagonals at the same time to make sure everything fits and I still have space for the plate.
20201007_112655 by andbike, on FlickrBike is back together and off to the CHP again...
20201007_173250 by andbike, on FlickrSuccess! I get the blue tag!
20201008_110735 by andbike, on FlickrNext step is to get the bike running and off to an inspection station for the brake and lamp inspection. There is some gray area to this part of the process. Several years ago you could go to any moto mechanic and have him verify that the lights and brakes are working and they would sign a simple statement of facts. Now DMV wants official certificates which most moto repair shops don't have. The only exception is if there isn't a repair shop in your area with the proper certificates. The closest shop is in Castro Valley and I'm in Livermore. According to the DMV this IS in my area.
I've used the shop in Castro Valley before and the tech there is SUPER picky about details. One time he failed me because the earlier mentioned license plate light was visible from the rear. Apparently that is not acceptable. Another time he failed me because my rear brake was slightly spongy (he wants the pedal to be rock hard). So what would go wrong this time I thought? Both brakes were rock hard. No white lights were visible from the rear. Everything worked including a horn (which isn't checked).
The inspection goes perfect... till we get inside to do the paperwork. Crap, now what? On the CHP paperwork they list the model year as "0000". The tech says this isn't correct. He wants a specific year. I mention that I have two other bikes titled as SPCN (special construction) and that those vehicles also show the model year as four zeros. The owner of the shop jumps into the conversation and suggests that he do the same. At this point he is getting very agitated and suggests that I go to DMV to have them confirm the year then come back and get the certificates. Time is running out. If I'm going to make Dirtbag I don't have time to do that. Extremely reluctantly he fills out the certificates with the "0000" year and I'm off to DMV.
By some strange act of God, I'm in and out of the DMV in about 20 minutes with NO APPOINTMENT! This isn't my first beauty pageant so I have everything in order and the process goes perfectly! The next day I call the owner of the shop in Castro Valley just as a courtesy to let him know that DMV also recorded the year as "0000". He is much appreciative.
I can now cut off the temporary tail light brackets and finish the back of the sub-frame.
to be continued...