Lowering a DRZ 400 SM is so easy!
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redline
Greetings from THill...
The first thing I did was to make marks on the front & back of the bike so I knew how tall the bike was stock. Then, I sat on the bike and measured it's height with me on it. This step tells me how much the bike will "sag" with me on it.
After it's lowered, I'll check the two measurements again. The instructions tell you how much it should sag when you're done. If the sag is wrong, you adjust the clickers on the back shock.
Oh, since the links only lower the back, I'll have to loosen the bolts on the forks and slide the forks in the triple clamps to lower the front. That's why I measured the front and the rear of the bike: so that it will be "level" when I'm done.
Here's a picture of me measuring how tall the front of the bike is and a pic of the rear.
On the front, I measured the total height of the triple clamps & I also took a measurement of how much the forks stick up out of the clamps when stock. This way, I know how tall the front is compared to the rear and I also know the stock settings if I ever want to set it back.
On the rear of the bike, I measured from the tape mark to the axle.
After it's lowered, I'll check the two measurements again. The instructions tell you how much it should sag when you're done. If the sag is wrong, you adjust the clickers on the back shock.
Oh, since the links only lower the back, I'll have to loosen the bolts on the forks and slide the forks in the triple clamps to lower the front. That's why I measured the front and the rear of the bike: so that it will be "level" when I'm done.
Here's a picture of me measuring how tall the front of the bike is and a pic of the rear.
On the front, I measured the total height of the triple clamps & I also took a measurement of how much the forks stick up out of the clamps when stock. This way, I know how tall the front is compared to the rear and I also know the stock settings if I ever want to set it back.
On the rear of the bike, I measured from the tape mark to the axle.
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redline
Greetings from THill...
Here's a comparison of the stock links with the lowering links right next to them. These links are the longest (most lowering) links. The links don't need to be much longer than stock to drop the bike 1.75 inches (with the DR3 link). Other lengths are available.
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redline
Greetings from THill...
The gold inserts in the links need to be removed & reused. This step is covered in the instructions included in the kit. They even tell you what size socket to use if you don't have a "punch" tool.
Basically, you put a socket that's the same size as the thing you want to remove, but is not any bigger than the hole. Then you beat the heck out of the link until the piece pops out.
A little WD-40 makes the parts pop out easily.
In the pic, two sockets are underneath the link & I'm about to smack the link with a mallet.
Basically, you put a socket that's the same size as the thing you want to remove, but is not any bigger than the hole. Then you beat the heck out of the link until the piece pops out.
A little WD-40 makes the parts pop out easily.
In the pic, two sockets are underneath the link & I'm about to smack the link with a mallet.
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redline
Greetings from THill...
Now, just put the links back on the bike and tighten them up. Here's a pic of the left & right side already installed.
Make sure to use those washers in the original locations. The kit's instructions are pretty good here and they even warn you to check for the washers before tightening everything down.
Not shown: I then loosened up the pinch bolts on the triple clamps on the front fork. You can see the pinch bolts in an earlier picture. They are just below the ignition switch. There are two more pinch bolts on the lower triple clamp that are loosened, too. Once all the pinch bolts are loose, you can move the forks by hand. Then, I moved the forks up or down until the bike was lower than stock in the front and was level with the rear.
Now, sit on the bike and measure how much everything "sags." The amount of sag changes depending on the size link used. Check the instructions and adjust the "clickers" on the shock to make sure it's at the right height.
That's it! That's how easy it is to lower a stock DRZ!
Make sure to use those washers in the original locations. The kit's instructions are pretty good here and they even warn you to check for the washers before tightening everything down.
Not shown: I then loosened up the pinch bolts on the triple clamps on the front fork. You can see the pinch bolts in an earlier picture. They are just below the ignition switch. There are two more pinch bolts on the lower triple clamp that are loosened, too. Once all the pinch bolts are loose, you can move the forks by hand. Then, I moved the forks up or down until the bike was lower than stock in the front and was level with the rear.
Now, sit on the bike and measure how much everything "sags." The amount of sag changes depending on the size link used. Check the instructions and adjust the "clickers" on the shock to make sure it's at the right height.
That's it! That's how easy it is to lower a stock DRZ!
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Last edited:
FrigginChi
Well-known member
Being able to reach the ground does wonders for confidence. I'd rather trade ground clearance for more confidence!
Mortifer
.
Awesome write up Vic!!!!!!!!
Congrats on the lowering and getting it more suited for yourself!
Your poor R1 is just gonna sit there and get lonely now.:laughing
I agree, the confidence given being able to touch the ground is totally worth the small cost and amount of time it takes to lower it.
Stan, suck it!
Lowering the DRZ doesn't lessen the performance for normal people, It still has the stock suspension and abilities! It can still jump, off road and whatever same as stock height.
Congrats on the lowering and getting it more suited for yourself!
Your poor R1 is just gonna sit there and get lonely now.:laughing
I agree, the confidence given being able to touch the ground is totally worth the small cost and amount of time it takes to lower it.
Stan, suck it!
Lowering the DRZ doesn't lessen the performance for normal people, It still has the stock suspension and abilities! It can still jump, off road and whatever same as stock height.
YanaBanana
Speed Safely!
:applause Vic, thanks for the detailed description! :cool
It's exactly what I did - along with seat slicing (like a bagel :laughing - not 'shaving' so the top half can be (re)placed back and seat cover restapled for a stock look/height if needed) and trimming of the kickstand. (Holler if you want my bro to do yours too, he did mine & masameet's.)
Bar risers let me lower the front a tad more, as stock bars don't leave much clearance for that. (They were also ~$79, like the KoubaLinks.)
Oh and I set the sag/suspension at Evolution Suspension, too. :thumbup
:teeth
Yana:banana
It's exactly what I did - along with seat slicing (like a bagel :laughing - not 'shaving' so the top half can be (re)placed back and seat cover restapled for a stock look/height if needed) and trimming of the kickstand. (Holler if you want my bro to do yours too, he did mine & masameet's.)
Bar risers let me lower the front a tad more, as stock bars don't leave much clearance for that. (They were also ~$79, like the KoubaLinks.)
Oh and I set the sag/suspension at Evolution Suspension, too. :thumbup
:teeth
Yana:banana
LongGoneJohn
Gone
Word. We need to start our own FAQ filled with How-To's.
Someone bring a camera to the tune day and we can get a few of them done at once. Whenever we get enough of them posted throughout this section, I'll put together a how-to FAQ thread.
Someone bring a camera to the tune day and we can get a few of them done at once. Whenever we get enough of them posted throughout this section, I'll put together a how-to FAQ thread.
