BARF Home Improvement: Installing Stairs

[HappyHighwayman]

Got the stair treads

 

[Sharxfan]

That looks pretty nice can't wait to see them on the stairs.

 

[HappyHighwayman]

I am concerned having cut off the lips that they may break off at that point they're pretty thin. I could cut them narrower to leave less lip.

 

[HappyHighwayman]

 

[HappyHighwayman]

So the stairs went from about 11" long to 10". I didn't need to do this as my new treads would have likely fit over the existing overhang without issue as they are 12-1/8" wide.

I am concerned that the 2-1/8" extra overhang won't be strong enough to support someone's weight if they step there. I see two choices:

1. Re-install some kind of overhang with wood I hammer or screw into the existing plywood stair.

2. Cut the new treads a little to match the width of the new stairs and have narrower stairs (10").

Suggestions?

 

[tzrider]

I think the deeper tread would be safer if you can support it. If you leave the tread at 12 1/8, support it with strips of wood as you say and install those with screws and glue. Pre-drill pilot holes in the wood strips to avoid splitting them. For glue, use Titebond III.

 

[HappyHighwayman]

Thank you!

Not such a big deal and a good learning experience. At least I only messed up 1/2 of the stairs.

 

[HappyHighwayman]

So huge change of plan keeping the laminate for the upstairs but switching to the wood risers for the downstairs as they can take the weight on the edge unlike the laminate. Will just stain the finish myself, otherwise more work, saves about $20 / tread.

 

[auntiebling]

2 1/8 overhang might be too much for wood as well, as i assume that overhang is parallel to the grain. solid wood isn't all that difficult to snap along the grain lines under the right circumstances

for the reinforcing strips i would not use screws as they can pull pieces out of alignment if one is not having a good day. the adhesive will be doing the work anyway. instead, use this scenario to get a pneumatic brad nailer

i have gotten a lot of mileage out of this one from hazard frought
https://www.harborfreight.com/18-gauge-2-in-1-air-nailerstapler-68019.html

and just about any little compressor will run it but because i'm already on the HF website, this wold work fine

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-gallon-13-hp-110-psi-oil-free-hotdog-air-compressor-57572.html

goop up your reinforcements, put them in place and drive a few brads in. it will go through whatever is in the way and happens so stinking fast nothing has much chance to get out of alignment. it will also go through your finger so be careful

caveats:
do a couple test pieces as close to the actual scenario as possible to make sure the brad head is below the final surface. if they stick out proud of the surface they're next to impossible to set with a nail set. a brad is a small square nail, square nails hold a lot tighter than round nails which works against you if you're trying to set them after the fact.

the glue will encourage your pieces to slip around because it's slippery. i might even go for an Instant Grab adhesive like this, it's white this is just an example. i'd try to get Clear if available, in your case so any oopsies are less visible
https://www.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-Po...PD0f7SqiajFsgEqNIZsaAnm2EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

"instant" glue + brads= happy. IMO etc etc

if you want belt+suspenders+warm blanket, go back the next day with some screws.

 

[HappyHighwayman]

What would you use for reenforcement strips?

 

[auntiebling]

What would you use for reenforcement strips?

do they need to be painted, stained? what material is the stair tread (i have a hard time keeping up entirely, as the wifi i'm using during the day blocks your picture host)

 

[HappyHighwayman]

No painting or staining they will be hidden. The current stairs are plywood. The over tread will be laminate.

2x4s would work if I trimmed them a bit

 

[HappyHighwayman]

Some 1" board seems to work well. The tread fits flush but then there's the 2" gap where it's not support, it might be fine if nobody presses hard on the edge...

I cut and glue on one board as a test. Will hammer it in as well.







Underneath shot with no support wood

 

[tzrider]

Thinking about this, your treads are functionally only going to be 10" whether or not you have an overhang. The overhang is a tripping hazard, I'd say. I'd cut the treads down so there is less (not zero) overhang. It would still look good, there would be much less leverage on the reinforcing strip and the tripping hazard would be reduced.

 

[Sharxfan]

Would a 1x10 on top of the stair tread make it too high? Why not cut a 1x piece of lumber to fit under the laminate to make it more like a solid piece? I didn't realize that the tread cover was so thin and had no support under the bullnose.

 

[HappyHighwayman]

Would a 1x10 on top of the stair tread make it too high? Why not cut a 1x piece of lumber to fit under the laminate to make it more like a solid piece? I didn't realize that the tread cover was so thin and had no support under the bullnose.

I think a single piece of 2x4 painted the same white would be perfect. I nailed/glued two pieces of wood and then checked and it's the same size as a 2x4 so I just need a few of those and I think it solves the issue.

 

[Sharxfan]

I hope it works out. I am still a little worried about how thin that bullnose is with no support in it. I wonder if those were designed with the assumption that there would be something under it supporting that open bullnose part unless your 2x4 is going to be under the bullnose part?

 

[HappyHighwayman]

Thinking about this, your treads are functionally only going to be 10" whether or not you have an overhang. The overhang is a tripping hazard, I'd say. I'd cut the treads down so there is less (not zero) overhang. It would still look good, there would be much less leverage on the reinforcing strip and the tripping hazard would be reduced.

I think it is down to this as the easiest idea. So the stairs will be a little short might not be up to code but eventually will install hard wood stairs.

 

[FLH03RIDER]

Agree with TZRIDER about overhang being trip hazard and more than likely not up to code.

Your original tread was 11" deep (very front edge back to where it touches the riser) ? Overhang was probably 3/8" - 1/2" ? Correct?

Your new thread width (deep) is 12-1/8", correct? It appears to me that manufacture designed it so the bottom edge of the bullnose fits flush up against the riser. (Might want to contact manufacture to be sure if no info supplied.)

What's is distance X? (See pic below) Also, "X" may be a little different for each step.

If you remove "X" amount from back edge of thread what is the distance from the very front edge of bullnose to the new back edge of thread?

Greater than 11"? If so, probably a lot easier to rip back edge of threads versus building out each step.

Hope that's helpful.

 

[HappyHighwayman]

It's happening!