• ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (15 days and 15 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.

WTB Clean Buell 1125CR

Strigoi

Strigoi

Banned
I'm sure you've done your research, but there's no more factory support for Buells so parts could be an issue in the future. Harley dealers won't work on them anymore either. The dealer I work at only has a handful of parts and it's all small shit that no one ever needs.
 
FreeRyde

FreeRyde

The Curmudgeon
Strigoi said:
I'm sure you've done your research, but there's no more factory support for Buells so parts could be an issue in the future. Harley dealers won't work on them anymore either. The dealer I work at only has a handful of parts and it's all small shit that no one ever needs.
Click to expand...

I didn't have any issues finding parts when I was in the process of rebuilding the 1125 I had. Only thing I couldn't find was a stator rotor :rofl
 
rudolfs001

rudolfs001

Booty Hunter
Strigoi said:
I'm sure you've done your research, but there's no more factory support for Buells so parts could be an issue in the future. Harley dealers won't work on them anymore either. The dealer I work at only has a handful of parts and it's all small shit that no one ever needs.
Click to expand...

I'm aware, thanks for looking out :thumbup
 
rudolfs001

rudolfs001

Booty Hunter
LX8 said:
I race 1125s and have lots of parts if you need something.
Click to expand...

Sweet, thanks!

What rear stand do you use? I went to put on a new rear tire yesterday and found mine doesn't work, it's just perfectly the wrong size. The spools are exactly the width of the stand frame.

As for the valves, I've read they usually sound like a box of rocks, so how do you know when they need to be reshimmed? I expect they were done at the 12k maintenance, and the bike is closing in on the 24k mark.

One thing that is worrying is that the bike pulls to the left. It's never been dropped as far as I can tell, the front tire doesn't have any cupping or strange wear, and it's not like the rear tire can be out of alignment, so what could be causing it to pull left. It's pretty severe and I don't want to try cornering with it like that.

I should be pretty good on parts, it's really clean and looks to have been well kept. It has all the important (as far as I know) mods done. Here's the list I got, anything missing? Are there any other mods you recommend?

All electrical (charging problems sorted out long time ago):
EBR oiling rotor, new stator installed by dealer at 12000 miles
Compu-Fire 55402 3-phase voltage regulator instead of Ducati junk
New Ballistic Performance lithium battery (9 pounds lighter)
Barker exhaust (nice sound, and 16 pounds lighter)
EBR ECM for Barker exhaust (much smoother ride and more power)
Twin Motorcycles intake stacks (much smoother ride with them, and more power after 5500 rpm)
K&N air filter
EBR clutch actuator
High bars
laminar lip for highway comfort
factory heated grips
Buell factory tankbag
XB footpegs (1" lower)
Bar end mirrors
Ulysses frame pucks
EBR carbon fiber engine guards
Ventura sport rack
Givi plate for monokey case (topcase sold separately)
Laminar Lip
 
Surj

Surj

Uneasy Rider
rudolfs001 said:
Thanks for the links!

I was hoping to avoid having to add another bulky tool. My garage space is already pretty much maxed out :(
Click to expand...

I know your pain. I have a regular Pit Bull rear stand, and it doesn't work with my Ulysses—the swingarm is slanted enough that it slides. Apparently the second one I linked to will work with the Uly, but goddamn, I have so much of shit shit already, and I cringe at buying another stand for one bike. Fortunately, my front stand works with the Ulysses (with the right pin, of course) and I can jack it up on the muffler for the rear. Just have to jump over the jack handle in my tiny garage. :laughing
 
rudolfs001

rudolfs001

Booty Hunter
Surj said:
I know your pain. I have a regular Pit Bull rear stand, and it doesn't work with my Ulysses—the swingarm is slanted enough that it slides. Apparently the second one I linked to will work with the Uly, but goddamn, I have so much of shit shit already, and I cringe at buying another stand for one bike. Fortunately, my front stand works with the Ulysses (with the right pin, of course) and I can jack it up on the muffler for the rear. Just have to jump over the jack handle in my tiny garage. :laughing
Click to expand...

That's my plan too. My front stand is pretty narrow, so I'm going to try to turn the grips so they're facing out and hope it works.

Frikkin Buell added an extra 6 inches on the right side of the rear axle just for shits and giggles.
http://moto.zombdrive.com/images/buell-1125r-2010-7.jpg
 
firstbuell

firstbuell

GO! 04,16,23,31,64,69,95
rudolfs001 said:
Sweet, thanks!

What rear stand do you use? I went to put on a new rear tire yesterday and found mine doesn't work, it's just perfectly the wrong size. The spools are exactly the width of the stand frame.

As for the valves, I've read they usually sound like a box of rocks, so how do you know when they need to be reshimmed? I expect they were done at the 12k maintenance, and the bike is closing in on the 24k mark.

One thing that is worrying is that the bike pulls to the left. It's never been dropped as far as I can tell, the front tire doesn't have any cupping or strange wear, and it's not like the rear tire can be out of alignment, so what could be causing it to pull left. It's pretty severe and I don't want to try cornering with it like that.

I should be pretty good on parts, it's really clean and looks to have been well kept. It has all the important (as far as I know) mods done. Here's the list I got, anything missing? Are there any other mods you recommend?

All electrical (charging problems sorted out long time ago):
EBR oiling rotor, new stator installed by dealer at 12000 miles
Compu-Fire 55402 3-phase voltage regulator instead of Ducati junk
New Ballistic Performance lithium battery (9 pounds lighter)
Barker exhaust (nice sound, and 16 pounds lighter)
EBR ECM for Barker exhaust (much smoother ride and more power)
Twin Motorcycles intake stacks (much smoother ride with them, and more power after 5500 rpm)
K&N air filter
EBR clutch actuator
High bars
laminar lip for highway comfort
factory heated grips
Buell factory tankbag
XB footpegs (1" lower)
Bar end mirrors
Ulysses frame pucks
EBR carbon fiber engine guards
Ventura sport rack
Givi plate for monokey case (topcase sold separately)
Laminar Lip
Click to expand...


dude, ya did good!

RE: the “right” parts/upgrades/etc. - it’s a never-ending story, so BadWeb & mebbe a 2nd, EBR-specific forum are all you need

You’ve always been truly on yer own with any Buell/ EBR, all the more so since shutdown #3.....

Many happy miles to ya!
 
rudolfs001

rudolfs001

Booty Hunter
firstbuell said:
dude, ya did good!

RE: the “right” parts/upgrades/etc. - it’s a never-ending story, so BadWeb & mebbe a 2nd, EBR-specific forum are all you need

You’ve always been truly on yer own with any Buell/ EBR, all the more so since shutdown #3.....

Many happy miles to ya!
Click to expand...

Thanks!

That's definitely been my impression, and I was expecting to basically do everything on my own.

And then I looked into how arduous the valve checks/changes are :rofl
Do you know if Harley dealers will still do them?
 
firstbuell

firstbuell

GO! 04,16,23,31,64,69,95
#1 - I don’t know of ANY H-D dealer I’d trust to do that valve job (not that any of em would even claim to be ready to perform it....)

#2 - yer still way ahead of any V-Rod owner, where the 10k service requires removing that massive lump of an engine from the frame to even begin!

So either call Jim of JT&S up @ Sears Point, the racer who posted here (bring beer or a bong, dunno), or PM multiple AHRMA class winner Pat Moody offa BadWeb

IIRC, the EBR tech dept had vids up, so check uTube
 
rudolfs001

rudolfs001

Booty Hunter
firstbuell said:
#1 - I don’t know of ANY H-D dealer I’d trust to do that valve job (not that any of em would even claim to be ready to perform it....)

#2 - yer still way ahead of any V-Rod owner, where the 10k service requires removing that massive lump of an engine from the frame to even begin!

So either call Jim of JT&S up @ Sears Point, the racer who posted here (bring beer or a bong, dunno), or PM multiple AHRMA class winner Pat Moody offa BadWeb

IIRC, the EBR tech dept had vids up, so check uTube
Click to expand...

Thanks so much! I try to do most of my own work, but some things are better learned watching someone else do them the first time, haha.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top