Utah: Riding In The Land Of Rocks And Sand

[WoodsChick]

Eric and I were fortunate enough to get a very impromptu 2 weeks off in April. We didn't even have to discuss what to do with such a delicious chunk of time. We loaded up the van, trailered the 610's and headed east towards Utah. Nothing better than a road trip!

We spent the night in Nevada...

Took a nice long walk before climbing into the van for the final leg...

Man, I'm so happy to be in the desert again!

We ran into a little hitch in our plans when we had to stop in Ely to get a new alternator. No big, Eric had it installed and running right in no time.


Mel's looks a lot different in Beaver, Utah than it does in the Bay Area...

We pulled into our secret little hidden campsite just outside of Capitol Reef National Park and immediately hit the sack. It was 9pm and it had been a long 2 days. Every one of the 917 miles we'd driven to get here again were totally worth it, though!


The morning that greeted us was perfect for riding...sunny and chilly! We headed for the Great Western Trail...

Huge fun!

Rocks, rocks, rocks...

Yes, this is the trail...

The rocks are even more fun when they're covered in snow...

We ended up having to turn around after 77 miles when we hit the deep drifts in the northern exposure...

We got back to camp fairly early and used the time to prepare our bikes and gear for a few days of camping off the bikes. It had warmed up considerably, perfect for a walk in the creek. It is usually crystal clear but the recent rains had muddied it up a bit. Fine by me! Rain in the desert is heaven...

No it's not a drainage ditch! It looks like one, but it's completely natural...

With our bikes loaded and bellies full, there was nothing to do but sit and relax...and wait...

I kept thinking of all that camping gear on my 610, though, and I was getting antsy. I was ready to go. Is it almost tomorrow?

More on the way, as usual.
A lot more...


WoodsChick

 

[slowpoke]

Your ride reports are the best!

 

[WoodsChick]

Your ride reports are the best!

Thank you!




WoodsChick

 

[veefereefer]

I love that area of Utah. Awesome pics and great write up as usual!!!! Thanks!

 

[WoodsChick]

We were both up before the sun, anxious to get the day started. We wanted to make it down to Bullfrog, but only because we knew we could get fuel there for the next leg of our trip. It was all dirt and there were no towns to speak of between here and there. We left with full tanks and light hearts...

The Waterpocket Fold is a fantastic geological formation that runs for over 100 miles. A wrinkle in the earth's crust...

We headed out across Big Thomson Mesa, wanting to see the view from Hall's Creek overlook...

Brimhall Bridge...

April in Utah simply cannot be beat...

It's incredible how quickly the terrain changes out here...

WE stopped at the Starr Springs Ranch in the southern Henrys for a snack. Most stone buildings out here have turned into so many piles of rubble. This one was built by a master stonemason. It's still falling down but the workmanship is evident, especially in the cellar...

We dropped down into Bullfrog and went into the lodge restaurant for an early supper. Too late for lunch and too early for dinner. The chef was there eating his pre-shift dinner, and he said the place was closed. I think our faces belied how disappointed we were, and he said he could serve us if we didn't mind having the specials that he had made for that night's dinner menu. Beef Burgundy made with filet mignon and a fresh fish sandwich on a homemade French roll sounded like heaven to us so we took a table in the window. The chef was awesome. He apologized for not knowing how to properly wait tables, but he was great! After he served us he informed us that the dinner would be free, as he had no cash register and didn't really know how much the items were anyway. Said he felt bad for making us decide what to eat without knowing the prices...as if we cared at that point. Needless to say, the dinner was knock-out! Really good stuff...best fish sandwich I've ever had! Turns out one of the servers showed up before we left so we got a bill but it didn't matter...worth every penny, and the experience bolstered our faith in our fellow man. We left the chef a big tip. And the bill was super-cheap...half-price!

We left the restaurant fat and happy. All we had to do now was find a decent place to camp for the night...

This will do...

Had Hall's Ferry been running we could have dropped further south and done the Hole-In-The-Rock Immigrant trail.


Time to wash off the dust!

So odd to see shells in the dirt out in the middle of the desert...

We had a really nice fire, considering that there was no real firewood around...

Ugh...I usually get coffee in bed...or should I say coffee in sleeping bag?...but
on this day there would be no hot coffee. Our stove was not working, despite Eric's best efforts and our bundle of spare parts...

It worked fine when we tested it (always!) before leaving the house but it was not to be today. We ate cold leftover Beef Burgundy and dried mango for breakfast and got ready to head out. Found this by my front wheel. Love is where you find it. It's all around us if you keep your eyes open...

Ran into some of the local wildlife on the way out of camp...

We had our sights set on fueling up the bikes before the long ride to Hite. We found just what we needed at the OnShore Marina...a full kitchen for breakfast, made-to-order sandwiches for our dinner, bottled Starbucks coffee for the next morning, endless cups of coffee, and gas...and houseboats...

More later, including one of most scenic and remote campsites I've ever seen!



WoodsChick

 

[simplyCOOK]

AWESOME REPORT!

 

[Nemo Brinker]

UTAH! *swoons*

 

[WoodsChick]

AWESOME REPORT!

Thanks, Kevin! How's the cam chain treating you?

UTAH! *swoons*

I know, right?? :love




DesertChick

 

[WoodsChick]

There was a little more pavement than I would have liked between Bullfrog and Hite but it was all pretty damned spectacular to so no complaints. This bridge was over a creek that had a natural springs bubbling up in it. It was awesome to look at and I'm an idiot for not getting a photo of it...

Our first glimpse of the Colorado River...

Crossing the Colorado...

The mighty Colorado in all its glory...

We dropped down into Hite, fueled up and de-layered our riding gear. After cooling off a bit we headed back over the Colorado in search of a dirt two-track that would take us north into the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and, eventually, into the western side of Canyonlands National Park. It was an elusive track and we passed it a few times before recognizing it as the spot we were looking for. The strange thing was that after about 5 miles or so the track started looking more bedded in, more like a normal road, even though we could see no other roads leading into it. It was incredibly long and stunningly beautiful. The desert must have known we were coming as she was dressed to impress, for sure...

I love this scritchy slickrock slabby stuff hiding under the gravelly sand. High entertainment factor when fully loaded with knobbies...

Hard to tell, but this was a very deep sand trap. I totally misjudged it and put it on the floor. How can a bike that feels so nimble while riding it be so incredibly heavy when it's on the ground? Ugh...

Cool stuff around every turn...a common theme on this trip...

And then we see this...I swear this place is like crack for my soul!

Have I mentioned that we haven't seen another human being since we left Hite hours ago?

Hovercraft LOL!

Man, I love riding in this kind of stuff...

We've got to be getting close to Glen Canyon NRA by now...right?




WoodsChick

 

[WoodsChick]

Later in the day than I would have liked, but glad to be here again...

We'll have to hit the Doll House next time. Right now we're headed to the western side of Canyonlands...

After a long steady climb, we will ride up near the white layer of rock...

Where we came from...

It's much cooler up here and the road is smoother...

Preparing to drop down towards the Maze. I'd been really looking forward to this road. This is what the NPS has to say about the area... http://www.utah.com/nationalparks/canyonlands/the_maze.htm

Damn cameras making everything look flat...

This road was, by far, the most fun one we'd ridden on this trip! I didn't get too many photos, as we were racing the weather, although I got some photos on the way out the next day. We wanted to make it to the overlook and get the tent set up before the forecasted rains came...

We were already getting raindrops at the split...

Can't wait to explore Ekker and Millard next time!

This section was killer! Solid rock trying to hide beneath the rocks and sand that would fill the natural depressions. If you missed the turn at the end it would be ugly...

We arrived at the Maze Overlook amid raindrops and hellacious winds. We immediately ran to the rim for a look-see and and our jaws hit the floor in stunned silence...




WoodsChick

 

[SRAD600]

Every time I read one of your reports I find myself looking at my vacation schedule shortly thereafter. :wow Another awesome one, great report. :ride

 

[WoodsChick]

There are only 2 spots at the end of the road, and we had our choice. We chose the one that we thought would give us the most shelter from the wind and rain, and quickly set up the tent. There were no amenities whatsoever...no fire rings, no tables, no bathrooms...it was perfect. We scrambled into the tent and waited for the lightening and thunder to pass. When we finally ventured out, this is the view we were greeted with...

We just looked at each other, sat down on the rock rim, and just stared at it in silence for quite some time. It was even more incredible than it had been when we first got there, hard as that was for us to process. We grabbed our sandwiches and bota bag, and enjoyed the best view in the house with our dinner...

I'm not sure Eric's camera was capable of capturing the sheer joy I was feeling right at the moment this photo was taken...

Yeah, I know, this photo is almost the same view as the first one I posted but...damn...I don't care...

Our home for the evening...

We took a walk down to the beginning of the Maze Overlook hiking trail...

It is suggested that hikers carry 25' ropes on this trail for lowering backpacks as there are lots of drops and some scrambling involved. We ran into one such section almost immediately...

Ungh!

These formations are called the Nuts and Bolts...

We had a nice view down into the Maze...

We climbed back up to the rim, no easy feat in moto boots, and took in all spring's glorious offerings. These leaves were no larger than an eraser on a pencil...

We enjoyed the view until the sun was gone...

...then spent some time looking at maps and photos in the tent before turning in for the night. We slept well under cloudy but dry skies.




WoodsChick

 

[twolane]

love it. I'm speechless.

 

[Cabrito]

We spent two weeks in Utah in April in my FJ Cruiser.. I kept thinking about how I need to get there on the bike.

Great ride so far. You guys really know how to pick the good camping spots.

 

[louemc]

We spent two weeks in Utah in April in my FJ Cruiser.. I kept thinking about how I need to get there on the bike.

Great ride so far. You guys really know how to pick the good camping spots.

Not saying anything negative...But...outside of a few rules of spots to not camp in..for reasons of flash floods, from storms not even seen from the camping spot...There are so many spots...it's all one big spot.

That's part of the beauty of being alone out there. Being a part of the landscape.

 

[2strokeYardSale]

Awesome. I was just in southern Utah and didn't bring a bike. I'm going back in a few months and I'll have to bring a bike.

 

[WoodsChick]

Every time I read one of your reports I find myself looking at my vacation schedule shortly thereafter. :wow Another awesome one, great report. :ride

Thanks, Eldrick! You need to pack that 950 up and head east!

love it. I'm speechless.

Glad you're enjoying it, twolane I was speechless the first time I rode Utah 13 years ago, and the thrill has only gotten more intense with time.

We spent two weeks in Utah in April in my FJ Cruiser.. I kept thinking about how I need to get there on the bike.

Great ride so far. You guys really know how to pick the good camping spots.

We totally lucked out on that spot! We knew we wanted to see the more remote side of Canyonlands, but we had no idea it was going to be so spectacular. I really want to hike all the way to the bottom next time, and I want to check out Millard Canyon and Ekker Butte, too. And the Doll House and Land of Standing Rocks, and and and... :laughing It never ends!

And, yes, the bike is the way to go, although southeastern Utah is 4wd heaven, too. I had total vehicle envy while in the Moab area later in the trip. Every other 4-wheeled vehicle was some super-capable bad-ass trail-eating machine. I want one!

Not saying anything negative...But...outside of a few rules of spots to not camp in..for reasons of flash floods, from storms not even seen from the camping spot...There are so many spots...it's all one big spot.

That's part of the beauty of being alone out there. Being a part of the landscape.

You're right about that, Lou. Stunning natural beauty in every direction out there. We almost ran into scenery overload when on the White Rim Trail later on in the trip :laughing



WoodsChick

 

[WoodsChick]

Awesome. I was just in southern Utah and didn't bring a bike. I'm going back in a few months and I'll have to bring a bike.

Yeah? Where'd you go? What'd you do? I simply cannot imagine being there without some sort of vehicle capable of getting into all the nooks and crannies that southeastern Utah has to offer. I just can't!




WoodsChick

 

[2strokeYardSale]

St. George, near Zion. I only had half days available, didn't seem like enough time.

 

[WoodsChick]

St. George, near Zion. I only had half days available, didn't seem like enough time.

Dude. Seriously. 2 weeks worth of sun-up to sun-down riding ain't enough time. I've done numerous 2-week and 10-day trips to Utah and I could do a lifetime more and it won't be enough.




WoodsChick