Thinking of upgrading to stainless steel brake lines

Darkness!

Where's the kick starter?
Anyone have an especial preference for either Spiegler, Goodridge, or Galfer?

If you've used more than one brand it would be helpful (looking for a comparison here). I have a 2006 Kawi ZX6R (the 636 version) and I'd like to get a more consistent and more progressive feel at the lever.

I've heard of some lines having an issue with galvanic corrosion between the steel and aluminum parts. Gettin a little too technical here maybe. :nerd

Racers and/or Moto mechanics if you've installed/serviced them, what are your thoughts?
 

Motech

_-_-_-_-_-_
A good hydraulic hose shop like this place can make them custom for you. Sometimes cheaper, always faster than mail order, guaranteed to fit right the first time. :thumbup
 

stangmx13

not Stan
Anyone have an especial preference for either Spiegler, Goodridge, or Galfer?

If you've used more than one brand it would be helpful (looking for a comparison here). I have a 2006 Kawi ZX6R (the 636 version) and I'd like to get a more consistent and more progressive feel at the lever.

I 've heard of some lines having an issue with galvanic corrosion between the steel and aluminum parts. Gettin a little too technical here maybe. :nerd

Racers and/or Moto mechanics if you've installed/serviced them, what are your thoughts?

this was discussed quite a while ago. i claimed "internet myth". for galvanic corrosion to occur, both metals must be in contact w/ an electrolyte. given that the SS doesnt contact brake fluid and is coated to keep out moisture, theres no way. also, the AL parts are hard anodized which just about completely stops all corrosion.

AL and copper (like for the sealing washers) would make a good galvanic cell though.
 

rritterson

wish I was the bike
I have them on the front. It's noticeable when I get on a bike without them now- much more squish in the lever, especially noticeable during hard braking.

They are worth the money. Mine are galfers, but I have no experience with any other brand.
 

unichi

Well-known member
this was discussed quite a while ago. i claimed "internet myth". for galvanic corrosion to occur, both metals must be in contact w/ an electrolyte. given that the SS doesnt contact brake fluid and is coated to keep out moisture, theres no way. also, the AL parts are hard anodized which just about completely stops all corrosion.

AL and copper (like for the sealing washers) would make a good galvanic cell though.

+1

And brake fluid being petroleum based is a not a very polar solvent and therefore a pretty crappy electrolyte.

Salt water is really the worst thing for corrosion, just stay away from salty air... oh... wait... nevermind. Damn you BA.
 

Stormdragon

Still Good Lookin'
I like Spiegler, because their customer service is excellent. I call 'em up, tell 'em what I want, and two days later, it's on my doorstep. :thumbup
 

Hooli

Big Ugly
Whatever brand you decide, use the plastic syringe method to fill them up from the bottom after you install them on the calipers (but before you attach them up top to the MC). Quick and simple method. :eboy
 

Darkness!

Where's the kick starter?
I'm getting the impression that no matter which brand I go with it'll be a big improvement. Especially If I ever work up the cojones (and cash) to take 'er to the track. Sound about right folks?
 

kgmoto

Well-known member
Ive been running the Galfers, cuz they were on closeout and cut for a busa, but fit perfectly fine. Replaced because the goodridges that came on the bike were cracked and had a brown fluid balloon forming under the clear cover. That was right at a mounting bracket, where the line had been bent nearly 90*, so probably mounting error over material failure. Any of the three you listed will be way better than OEM. Just remember they are not as flexible, and you may have to do some special routing to keep them as straight as possible.
 

Darkness!

Where's the kick starter?
Ive been running the Galfers, cuz they were on closeout and cut for a busa, but fit perfectly fine. Replaced because the goodridges that came on the bike were cracked and had a brown fluid balloon forming under the clear cover. That was right at a mounting bracket, where the line had been bent nearly 90*, so probably mounting error over material failure. Any of the three you listed will be way better than OEM. Just remember they are not as flexible, and you may have to do some special routing to keep them as straight as possible.

Yeah, a friend ran into that problem. Tried to do it himself, got into a jam and had to have his bike towed to his local shop.

What about HEL brakelines? Anyone have or used 'em?
 

Motech

_-_-_-_-_-_
Fitment problems are going to occur with any aftermarket line, some not so bad, others very frustrating. This is why I strongly encourage custom lines from a local hydraulic hose specialty shop. You simply make an appointment, hand them your OE lines and go have lunch. When you come back, you have a precise fitting assembly matched exactly to the factory setup, you probably payed less and you kept your money local. :thumbup
 

Darkness!

Where's the kick starter?
Steve, I'd be happy to give my business to a local (hydraulic) hose shop but are they going to have the correct connectors and bolts? I mean, are the hydraulic fittings for motorcycle brakes fairly similar to other applications? I don't know that I'd just be able to hand them over my OEM lines, I kinda need 'em to operate my bike ya know...would they be able to install them as well? Is that what you're saying?
 

Motech

_-_-_-_-_-_
Steve, I'd be happy to give my business to a local (hydraulic) hose shop but are they going to have the correct connectors and bolts? I mean, are the hydraulic fittings for motorcycle brakes fairly similar to other applications? I don't know that I'd just be able to hand them over my OEM lines, I kinda need 'em to operate my bike ya know...would they be able to install them as well? Is that what you're saying?

Not only will they have the correct fittings, they also will have the correct angles, seals and banjo bolts too, and usually offer multiple color choices. My Aprilia lines, for example, were built in 2 hours with no appointment at The Hose Shop in Santa Cruz.

As far as handing over your OE lines, you're not trading. They will use them as a template to duplicate exact routing for your custom steel lines for perfect fitment to your bike. You'll get them back.

As for installation, I dunno. Not here.
 
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kgmoto

Well-known member
Personally I wouldnt want them copying my single line from the master cylinder style OEM hose, I'd want two lines from the MC. If you're going custom and really worried about fitment, take a piece of string or rope, and route it through your bike from the master cylinder to the right caliper. Allow for enough slack to clear whatever it needs to while turning the bars, and when the forks fully extend. Measure rope. Repeat for left side caliper.
 

Motech

_-_-_-_-_-_
Personally I wouldnt want them copying my single line from the master cylinder style OEM hose, I'd want two lines from the MC. If you're going custom and really worried about fitment, take a piece of string or rope, and route it through your bike from the master cylinder to the right caliper. Allow for enough slack to clear whatever it needs to while turning the bars, and when the forks fully extend. Measure rope. Repeat for left side caliper.

I would not want the type that doubles over the fender from one caliper to the other, but a Y line that couples from single MC line to each caliper below... What's the difference? Modifying to two lines at MC requires a longer banjo bolt and an extra washer seal, and can cause more bulk in a busy control/dash area.
 
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