Stripped stator screw...in need of ideas to remove

Yougoteck

Get at me dog..barf BARF!
Swapping out the factory stator cover on '11 ZX6R. Got the other three screws out without a problem (though they were tighter than virgin monkey), but it's the last one that didn't want to come out.

Used a T30 Torx for the others, with a ratchet attachment.

Because of experience, after the thing started slipping I just stopped. Tried again later, with larger bits, hand torx driver, to no avail.

Eff it, so I dremmeled a cut right across the top, and just use a flathead; still no luck.

On to an extractor kit, followed directions to the T, and I suppose the high torque setting on my drill isn't strong enough, but that didn't work.

My next thing was to cut off the screw head, and use the extractor in the body of the screw. I have a feeling (yeah right) that will work because I've done that before, but not in such a tight place like the inside of an engine cover.

So before I resort to this, shoot me your ideas plz!!!!!
 

aram

Well-known member
Since it sounds like it's already pretty messed up, just drill off the head of the screw with a large bit and then use heat and a fresh pair of vise grips on what's left to pull out the stub of the bolt. Just be careful to not get shavings everywhere.

Since it also sounds like you don't need the stator cover immediately (swapping to aftermarket ones?), that would also get it done quickly.

Last time I did a kawasaki stator I just used impact and they came off super easy.
 

Yougoteck

Get at me dog..barf BARF!
... just drill off the head of the screw with a large bit and then use heat and a fresh pair of vise grips on what's left to pull out the stub of the bolt.

Yes, the head of the screw is shot to death! What you're suggesting is to get the screw head off somehow (I would just dremmel it down), and the heat gun will loosen it up? But then, what would the vice grips be gripping, if there is no screw head?

Just to make sure, I'm talking about the 4 screws inside of the cover; the ones that keep the stator coils inside of the cover. And not the screws that secure the cover to the engine.

I'm desperate, gentlemen

IMG_0001.jpg


You can see where I made the horizontal cut with the dremmel. There's also a vertical cut above, but none below, because I was getting too close to the coils, so I just let that be.

IMG_0002.jpg
 

Motech

_-_-_-_-_-_
I think what Aram means is cut the head off flush, remove the stator from the cover, then extract the fucked up bolt with vice grips.

Stud sockets would work MUCH better though. Either borrow the right socket from a mechanic friend, or buy a set at a good auto parts or tool store.

October2011317.jpg
 

Yougoteck

Get at me dog..barf BARF!
I think what Aram means is cut the head off flush, remove the stator from the cover, then extract the fucked up bolt with vice grips.

I see what you're saying, but you have the order mixed. The stator being removed from the cover has to be the last step. By your accounts, if I can get the stator removed, then nothing [bolts] needs to be extracted.

So I need ideas on how to get this screw out. As you can see in the picture, the space is tight! There's not much in terms of tools that will fit in there.

I'm thinking of that 'heating' idea
 

kgmoto

Well-known member
heat

and motech is correct, you can remove the stator before the screw, by grinding off the head of the screw, thus turning it into a shaft that the stator can slide over. Then you can heat the cover and use a stud socket or vice grips to remove the rest of the bolt.
 

Yougoteck

Get at me dog..barf BARF!
^^ okay, I see it clearly. Once the screw head is off, just toggle the stator assembly off from there, over whatever is left from the screw.

My angle was that I don't need the stator cover. I'm swapping it out. So the cover is getting tossed regardless.

Anybody have a heat gun? Mine is at the office and I'm not driving across the bridge, at least not today
 

kgmoto

Well-known member
If youre tossing the cover, no need for bolt extraction, no need for heat. Dremmel the bolt head, very carefully, dont knick the stator wires...
 

Motech

_-_-_-_-_-_
Why would you toss it? If not damaged, nice to keep the OE part for future use, if noting else to show future buyer you did not replace it to conceal crash damage.
 

aram

Well-known member
Yeah just drill/dremel the bolt head off and I'll even send you a couple bucks to send me the cover with the bolt stuck in it. :p
 

stangmx13

not Stan
+1 to kingmoochr

while u may be SOL this time, buy yourself an impact driver so you never have to use a dremel on a fastener again.
 

Yougoteck

Get at me dog..barf BARF!
Well I thought about using an Impact Driver before the Extractor Kit; I went with the extractor kit because it seemed more practical at the time.

Hand power>machine power

Yeah just drill/dremel the bolt head off and I'll even send you a couple bucks to send me the cover with the bolt stuck in it. :p

Well I can send you the stock cover, but I am replacing it because it was lowsided, and now has a crack. Look in the pics above, you can kind of see the clean crack in the second picture. Name whatever price and it's yours. :thumbup
 

Curt

Well-known member
Looks like it's the torx bolt that got stripped. I recently had trouble with the screw that held the wiring on the stator, but used a impact screwdriver to get it removed. Not sure what to do about that bolt you have though. You try twisting it with pliers? haha
 

kgmoto

Well-known member
IMO, thermal expansion>impact
this should add some fuel to the fire....

also, that looks like an allen bolt (oops, no its a torx, didnt read all of OP). Although you will still get the sudden twisting force, the downward force also provided by an impact driver becomes useless and a threat to the threads of the softer aluminum. You're right though, and impact driver is the proper way to remove stubborn screws.
 
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kgmoto

Well-known member
I don't know what temperature the insulation on the stator begins to break down. I wouldnt go at it with a butane torch, my first attempt would be with a heatgun from the other side (outside) of the stator cover. I still think it'd be easier to use the tools you have available (assuming a dremmel since you cut the slots in the bolt already), and grind the rest of the bolt head off.


can you elaborate on the tighter than a virgin monkey part?
was there threadlocker on the other 2 bolts?
 
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DannoXYZ

Well-known member
Yeah, since aluminium expands at a faster rate than steel, heating from the outside would loosen the cover's grip on the bolt since the threaded interface is closer to the outside. Better than trying to get heat all the way through the bolt-head and shaft and risk damaging the coil-windings.

Another trick with torx bits is to grind off 1mm from the tip. This causes the cone-shape bit to be larger at the tip and grip the bolt tighter. And the new sharper corners bite better as well.

Finally, >WHACK< with impact-driver. The in-line force keeps the bit from tilting and slipping. Harder to keep the bit in alignment with the bolt-head when using a ratchet-wrench because you're applying force from the side. AND trying to wrestle that wrench with ever higher amounts of force. And the impact-driver adds some shock to the bolt that can free up corrosion & threadlockers.
 
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mototireguy

Moto Tire Veteran
you can remove the stator before the screw, by grinding off the head of the screw, thus turning it into a shaft that the stator can slide over.

+1 This

And unless the stator cover is cracked/leaking it would still be usable with the stator being held in place by the 3 remaining bolts.
 

Yougoteck

Get at me dog..barf BARF!
can you elaborate on the tighter than a virgin monkey part? was there threadlocker on the other 2 bolts?

Virgin, is just what it is. Monkey is Eastcoast slang for vagina :nerd The other 3 bolts may have had a medium strength threadlocker on them. Not 100% sure on that. I actually tightened the others, broke through the threadlocker, then twisted off the first 3 screws. Clearly didn't work here, as we are faced with this dilemma. Don't have the heatgun ready at this point; going to hold off until Monday when I can get my hands on it.

The Impact Driver seems to be the way to go in the meantime. I'm grinding the screwhead down now with the dremmel.

The suggestion about grinding off the tip of the Torx bit; that won't do any good as there is absolutely nothing for it to bite into. See the photos. That thing is rashed
 
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