• ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (15 days and 15 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
  • ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (30 days and 30 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.

SOLD - 2005 Jayco Escapade (Class C RV)

Status
Not open for further replies.
F4iChic

F4iChic

Kiss My Arse
SOLD SOLD SOLD

THANKS EVERYONE FOR YOUR SUGGESTIONS AND THANKS FOR ALL THE INTEREST.

And thank you to the BARFER who came out and ran through everything to make sure it was working, even though you ended up not buying her yourself. Your information enabled a BARF FIRST. My original asking price was bumped HIGHER :rofl

Thanks again everyone, and sorry for the silent period. Wanted to make sure smog and everything was done before announcing the sale

So, here's the deal

I have a 2005 Jayco Escapade, Model 28G that I need to rehome :)

It is currently in storage, and has not been moved for, ahem, a number of years. The tyres are shot, the battery is dead, fluids are probably not fluid any more.

I contacted a local RV repair dude, and he estimates that it will cost $5k to get back in running order. He didn't think it would cost more than that based on the lengthy conversation we had wherein I described the situation.

Now, I don't want to go to the hassle of getting it fixed up to sell, and dealing with buyers. I want it gone. But I can't sell it because it needs smog, and to get it smogged it needs to be fixed up. Catch 22 for me.

So, who wants to come up with an ingenious LEGAL solution that can benefit the buyer and me? How about this for a suggestion? You come get it and get it fixed up. You pay to get it fixed up, or do it yourself. After it is fixed and passes smog, you buy it from me. For, oh I don't know, $10k?

I keep the title until you take possession of it. You can trust me not to pull any shenanigans because I am as honest as the day is long. Budman and a whole host of admins and members can vouch for me in this regard.

Please don't post any nonsense suggestions like setting fire to it. I'm trying to get out of having this thing and do a deal for someone who is willing to help me and in the process they get a bargain.

Admins, I know this is a tad unusual in classifieds, but please let this thread stay in the hopes of helping me out. I'm a founding member you know :twofinger

(I just paid it off so the pink slip will be with me in a few weeks)
 

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Last edited:
F4iChic

F4iChic

Kiss My Arse
I don't know the mileage at the moment, but I am going to say very low. It has sat more years than I used it. No back reg owed, it is PNO and has been for years. Engine is a E350?

Edited as I put F350 when I meant E350
 
Last edited:
splat

splat

Well-known member
I was curious and decided to look at comps.

2004 for $27K
2004 for $28K

For the price offered, it's a hell of a deal. What services would be rendered for the 5K? Fluids and tires shouldn't run that much, even if they're E-rated 10 plys.
 
slydrite

slydrite

On a brake
Damn, if only it were a smaller class C, that would fit in our driveway, we'd be all over this like a nasty rash!
 
Ogier le Danois

Ogier le Danois

Well-known member
I hope it isn't a nonsense suggestion, but would you be required to smog it for an out of state buyer? Someone may be willing to come get it/tow it and register it in a state that doesn't smog vehicles.
 
auntiebling

auntiebling

megalomaniacal troglodyte
Staff member
Meter Man said:
I hope it isn't a nonsense suggestion, but would you be required to smog it for an out of state buyer? Someone may be willing to come get it/tow it and register it in a state that doesn't smog vehicles.
Click to expand...

Highly unlikely the hypothetical destination state will care.

in fact, what you suggest is a method to circumvent ca back fees fo those with out of state connections.
 
splat

splat

Well-known member
Meter Man said:
I hope it isn't a nonsense suggestion, but would you be required to smog it for an out of state buyer? Someone may be willing to come get it/tow it and register it in a state that doesn't smog vehicles.
Click to expand...

No. For example, in Nevada smog is the buyer's responsibility. If someone is buying it to register in NV, it's the their responsibility.
 
TWF

TWF

training hard
splat said:
No. For example, in Nevada smog is the buyer's responsibility. If someone is buying it to register in NV, it's the their responsibility.
Click to expand...

That is correct, we don't care about your CA smog or back fees here in NV. Even if it just passed smog in CA it will need to be done again in NV.
It is owners responsibility to pass smog and register vehicle. So if you buy vehicle with lets say engine light on or it does not pass smog for some reason it is your problem :)
 
TWF

TWF

training hard
And in NV license plate belongs to registered owner, not to vehicle. Meaning owner has to pay late fee if any, not vehicle attached.
 
F4iChic

F4iChic

Kiss My Arse
Would there be any late/back fees? Sorry I am a tad ignorant in this regard. I currently pay non-op on this. If it gets going again, do I (or the buyer) owe full registration for current year and back dated for all years it was non-op?

W
 
TWF

TWF

training hard
No since you paying non-op.
Many people in CA forget they need to do non-op and end up with a lot of back fees. In Ca whoever buys it is responsible for those while in NV we are not.
 
Dr. Evil

Dr. Evil

Mother of God.
I just went out there and put a new (auto) battery in it.

* Mileage is ~5800

* I cranked the motor for a second or two. Turned right over, no hesitation. So the engine spins. Probably all it needs is new oil, new transmission fluid, and new gas.

* Tires hold air, so it can probably be towed a few miles to Costco for re-shoeing.
 
F4iChic

F4iChic

Kiss My Arse
And it might need batteries for the generator stuff (I have no idea what I am talking about, but I am sure there are other batteries besides the one that makes the engine run)
 
splat

splat

Well-known member
F4iChic said:
Would there be any late/back fees? Sorry I am a tad ignorant in this regard. I currently pay non-op on this. If it gets going again, do I (or the buyer) owe full registration for current year and back dated for all years it was non-op?

W
Click to expand...

No. As far as DMV is concerned, the registration is up to date (because you have it registered non-op), so the only thing to get it back on the road will be proof of insurance and paying the registration fee for this year.

I really wish I needed this, because that's one hell of a deal you have going!
 
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