Power brake Bleeder?

[mel3535]

Anyone recommend anything specific? I was looking for a easy way to bleed the brakes on my own and quick search narrowed it down to these but I do not know how well they work with bikes.

http://www.amazon.com/Motive-0100-E...F8&refRID=1H7TK11KTJ6PE3A392QW#productDetails

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-brak...ispla=00920930000P&sid=IDx20131030xMPAPxCPA28

 

[thedub]

I recommend not wasting money on those tools. Bleeding the brakes is already easy because you can easily reach the brake lever and the caliper at the same time, by yourself, on a motorcycle.

 

[stangmx13]

the Craftsman one is just a MityVac copy thats metal instead of plastic. that style works just fine on moto brakes. i havent used the other style.

oh, that actual MityVac is 25$ cheaper on Amazon.

 

[mel3535]

I recommend not wasting money on those tools. Bleeding the brakes is already easy because you can easily reach the brake lever and the caliper at the same time, by yourself, on a motorcycle.

Not on the clutch side, that is the only reason I want one. I can bleed the throttle side with no problem but the clutch side is harder.

 

[O.T.]

I found it best with both. I love my pressure bleeder. The vacuum will pull excess out of the res.
I hate bleeding and a bad bleed sucks. The right tools will make a lot of difference. Some calipers will not bleed out on the bike by hand and it sucks trying to make them.

 

[Tri750]

I have a compressor powered vacuum bleeder. But I'll get a Mity Vac one of these days. Be sure you flush the MV with water when done to neutralize the brake fluid. It will last longer down the road.
Unless you work out of your garage a lot, the plastic one is fine.

 

[msethhunter]

Jesus Christ! Another one of these threads! If you need a power bleeder to properly bleed your motorcycle, something is either broken, or you're doing g it wrong.

 

[fawndog]

Jesus Christ! Another one of these threads! If you need a power bleeder to properly bleed your motorcycle, something is either broken, or you're doing g it wrong.

+1 They really are the best way to introduce air into the system.

The best brake bleed tool I've ever used is a water bottle with a hose.

 

[fast4d]

Jesus Christ! Another one of these threads! If you need a power bleeder to properly bleed your motorcycle, something is either broken, or you're doing g it wrong.

I recommend not wasting money on those tools. Bleeding the brakes is already easy because you can easily reach the brake lever and the caliper at the same time, by yourself, on a motorcycle.

:thumbup


provided you have full use of both arms/hands


kids are helpful if I am bleeding a car

 

[thedub]

Not on the clutch side, that is the only reason I want one. I can bleed the throttle side with no problem but the clutch side is harder.

Do you have t-rex arms?

 

[stangmx13]

if you cant properly bleed anything w/ a power bleeder and do it faster than the manual method, you are doing it wrong.

 

[sanjuro]

BTW, once I saw a bleed kit which uses tire pressure to create a vacuum.

Ingenious.

 

[Tri750]

Truth be told, I have a vacuum bleeder because I wanted one. Not that I needed it. Too cool a tool.
Wow.

 

[ALANRIDER7]

Jesus Christ! Another one of these threads! If you need a power bleeder to properly bleed your motorcycle, something is either broken, or you're doing g it wrong.

Routine fluid changes don't require any vacuum assist. It's straightforward.

If you're installing braided stainless brake lines or replacing a master cylinder, you'll need a vacuum bleeder. Otherwise, the dry system is an uphill battle.

 

[gurk]

I really recommend doing it the old school way. No vacuums or pumps or anything.
Add on top of reservoir (never let it run out of fluid. Will only make the process longer)
Squeeze brake, keep it squeezed.
Open Valve to let fluid run out. (Still keeping it squeezed)
Close Valve. Pump the brake until it has decent pressure and keep it squeezed.
Open Valve... etc etc.. repeat until you have good pressure.

Do this for your master, then rotors. I usually go back and do master one more time..

If you feel fancy, get a quick bleeder valve. I got those and my bleeds are a breeze now.

It's fast if you do it right and I've had zero issue in 3 years of tracking. There are however 2 super cheap tools that make life super easy.

http://www.amazon.com/Person-Bleede...97344564&sr=8-2&keywords=brake+bleed+magnetic

http://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Ea...8&qid=1397344624&sr=8-1&keywords=baby+syringe

Nice, Clean, Fast bleeds.

 

[OldFatGuy]

The best brake bleed tool I've ever used is a water bottle with a hose.

That looks exactly like my brake bleeder. Same brand of water, even. :laughing

I have used a vacuum bleeder to replace brake lines though.

Step 1: Suck all the fluid out through the bleeders.
Step 2: Replace lines without making any mess.
Step 3: Refill reservoir.
Step 4: Suck fluid down through bleeders while filling reservoir.
Step 5: Profit!

 

[ratsblast]

I just gravity bleed, takes a bit of time but no big deal. I have a HF vacuum bleeder but doesn't work all that well. I think if you change the lines leave the bottom banjo to the caliper loose, then you add fluid to the reservoir and wait until you see fluid dribble out and tighten the the banjo bolt. Then just crack the bleeder on the caliper and it will be close to bled. Maybe dickeroo with it a bit more to get a nice firm pull.

 

[Burning1]

Anyone recommend anything specific? I was looking for a easy way to bleed the brakes on my own and quick search narrowed it down to these but I do not know how well they work with bikes.

http://www.amazon.com/Motive-0100-E...F8&refRID=1H7TK11KTJ6PE3A392QW#productDetails

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-brak...ispla=00920930000P&sid=IDx20131030xMPAPxCPA28

Don't bother. The vacuum pump I own was a complete waste of money. It sits in a box and I bleed by hand.

The thing is a pain to use, and does not produce very good results. Moto brakes are trivial to bleed by hand.

 

[msethhunter]

Routine fluid changes don't require any vacuum assist. It's straightforward.

If you're installing braided stainless brake lines or replacing a master cylinder, you'll need a vacuum bleeder. Otherwise, the dry system is an uphill battle.

I've done more than a few dry systems/braided installs. Never had an issue. Patients is all it takes. Bench bleeding "dry" parts makes all the difference. You know the way they did it in the old'en days. Most of the time, I don't even bother to bleed and bleed an bleed. I let gravity do all the work for me, then give it a few squirts just to make sure all the air is out.

Edit to add: I never found one of those vacuum tools to be worth a shit. From the cheepy at HF all the way up to the ones that come the MAC/Snap On trucks. They are a waste of money IMO.

 

[Tri750]

I have this little guy right here. I can't figure out why so many posters have so much anger in their opinions about a tool.
The one thing no one has mentioned, maybe because they are talking about home garage use, is the possibility of tearing up your master cylinder rubbers with all the pumping past the gunk ring.
In time, with normal use you only have a very short amount of travel used within the master cylinder bore. At either end of this usable travel a ring of gunk forms and will harden like plastic. When installing new lines or flushing your brake system the pumping of the lever or pedal forces the piston the full length of the master past this gunk ring. This can tear the rubber cup causing a loss of pressure or leak either immediately but normally a few days after the brake line swap or flush.
When your customer comes back a few days later complaining of a brake leak after YOU flushed the brakes, it's hard at that time to defend the shop. A smart service writer or service manager will caution the customer that because the brakes haven't been flushed in years, the possibility of a problem exists. This caution is done when the job is being written up.
Again, the smart service manager has a vacuum type brake bleeder for his crew to do brake flushes faster, cleaner, and with much less chance of blowing thru gunk rings. Flat rate tech's love them.
Those that have had poor results with bleeders like the one pictured may not have a compressor large enough to keep up with it. Even the Groits I have (pictured) tho maybe geared towards the home DIY person really eats up air and won't function right with a small compressor. I've tried it on a friends Campbell Hausfield cheapo compressor and it wouldn't pull any fluid.