Post Clutch Replacement Issue

[RightCoastBias]

Put new clutch plates in my F800 GS this weekend and I'm having an issue.

When in first gear, on the center stand, if I pull the clutch lever all the way to the bar, my rear wheel spins. I've never had this issue before, and testing my coworker's F800 GS, it does not do this. On a level surface, with the clutch lever pulled in, the bike does not move forward.

I've adjusted the clutch perch and slave properly insofar as I know how to do it. Leaving a bit of slack on both ends. I've got no issues with the clutch slipping or anything of the like.

My guess as to what is causing the problem is as follows, and I'm checking to see if it makes sense, or if I need to go back to the adjustments or something else all together.

When torquing the bolt/clutch springs I, unfortunately, didn't have a torque wrench that read down to 10nm (I've got one coming today). My thought is that I over torqued the springs and the clutch pack cannot fully disengage, thus causing the wheel to spin when the lever is pulled to the bar.

Regardless if this is the issue or not, I'll be taking off the case and properly setting the torque on those clutch springs/bolts.

 

[jafo]

normal

first time i experienced this, tripped me out too

 

[RightCoastBias]

normal

first time i experienced this, tripped me out too

Normal after changing friction plates?

Because I do know that some bikes do it, but mine never has before. Nor does my coworker's, who has the same bike.

I've had other bikes that would do this, but never on my F8.

 

[motomania2007]

It is normal. More or slightly less torque on the pressure plate springs will make no difference.

Most bikes will do it.

 

[RightCoastBias]

It is normal. More or slightly less torque on the pressure plate springs will make no difference.

Most bikes will do it.

Cool, thanks. I don't really care if the wheel is spinning a bit, knowing that other bikes I've owned have done this. But my concern directly related to potentially over torquing the springs, causing the issue and my bike not having done this previously.

 

[motomania2007]

Cool, thanks. I don't really care if the wheel is spinning a bit, knowing that other bikes I've owned have done this. But my concern directly related to potentially over torquing the springs, causing the issue and my bike not having done this previously.

The torque on the bolts on the clutch springs is merely to hold the bolts in and does not add more preload pressure on the springs.

 

[Busy Little Shop]

Your new clutch plates are probably thicker than specified by the manufacture...

But here's how to adjust your clutch for drag... your gears can't shift
smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged...

1 Place your bike on the center stand...

2 Start engine and establish a warm steady idle...

3 Squeeze in the clutch lever and shift into first gear...

4 Hold in the clutch lever and note if the rear wheel coast to stop...
if it continues spinning step on the rear brake... does this action
drag down the engine rpms??? thats extreme drag...

To adjust a cable equipped bike turn the small knob clock wise (out)
1/4 turn and test for clutch drag... if your bike is equipped with
hydraulics bleed system for bubbles...

Ultimately you want the rear wheel to coast to a stop when the engine
is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed
in...

 

[RightCoastBias]

Your new clutch plates are probably thicker than specified by the manufacture...

But here's how to adjust your clutch for drag... your gears can't shift
smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged...

1 Place your bike on the center stand...

2 Start engine and establish a warm steady idle...

3 Squeeze in the clutch lever and shift into first gear...

4 Hold in the clutch lever and note if the rear wheel coast to stop...
if it continues spinning step on the rear brake... does this action
drag down the engine rpms??? thats extreme drag...

To adjust a cable equipped bike turn the small knob clock wise (out)
1/4 turn and test for clutch drag... if your bike is equipped with
hydraulics bleed system for bubbles...

Ultimately you want the rear wheel to coast to a stop when the engine
is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed
in...

I'm using OEM plates. They're certainly thicker than what was in the bike, but unless BMW has changed the spec, they're the same.

I've done the above, bike on, centerstand, click down into first, pull in clutch, wheel spins. Stop the wheel with the rear brake, no RPM change. Release the brake, wheel spins again and does not coast to a stop.

Not a hydraulic clutch.

I'll play with the slave a bit more to see if it gets to a point where the rear wheel doesn't spin. But the adjustment at the lever is where I want it to be in regards to where it engages/disengages the clutch. I'll play with it to see if I can effect the spinning wheel, but I'd prefer not to change how it functions, as the free play is in spec.

 

[RightCoastBias]

The torque on the bolts on the clutch springs is merely to hold the bolts in and does not add more preload pressure on the springs.

Copy that, thanks again.

 

[stangmx13]

theres no reason for the rear tire to spin down or not move if everything else is in good condition and in-spec. if you can stop the tire from moving with minimal force, it will not affect shifting in any way.

 

[Shaggy]

What you are experiencing is normal, IME.

With the bike in gear, the engine side is still spinning, which in turn spins the oil, and can impart minor force on the outer plate which will then spin the wheel. This is why you can stop the rear wheel with the brake and not see a change in RPM.

Also, did you wait for the bike to warm up a bit or is this on a cold start? It's normal for the clutch to drag more noticeably until the oil warms up.

 

[RightCoastBias]

theres no reason for the rear tire to spin down or not move if everything else is in good condition and in-spec. if you can stop the tire from moving with minimal force, it will not affect shifting in any way.

No shifting issues.

I'm more concerned about burning up the plates, as I had the dealership mess up my clutch cable adjustment about a year ago, which led to burning up the plates. They refused to do anything about it, and I've been riding on a less than stellar clutch since then.

 

[Busy Little Shop]

I'm using OEM plates. They're certainly thicker than what was in the bike, but unless BMW has changed the spec, they're the same.

BMW may have changed OEM supplier... the only way to know for sure the thickness is to Mic the plates...

Turn the small knurl knob counter clock wise 1/4 at a time and check spin is best
method to find that sweet spot of lever engagement you prefer and no clutch
drag required for smooth shifting...

 

[Busy Little Shop]

I'm more concerned about burning up the plates, as I had the dealership mess up my clutch cable adjustment about a year ago, which led to burning up the plates.

Oil cooled clutches don't burn up rather they get glazed over due to normal contaminants...

If you wish 100,000 mile clutch life then you have to invest is some
good old sweat equity... first Mic them to determine if they are serviceable
within the factory specifications...

Inspect the friction plates for glazing... make sure you have plenty
of material to work with... your shop manual states clutch thickness
in thousands of an inch or mm.

First removed the contaminants with Acetone... pick a hard surface to lay
over a 600 grit black dry emery paper... rotate the clutch plate in a
circle... you're just busting the glaze... don't get carried away
remove too much material... You should end up with a friction plate
looks dull like a new one as opposed to a shinny glazed one... recheck
thickness...

Next check the pressure plates for bluing caused by localized heat...
make sure they are not warped... consult the manual for a thickness
range... now removed the contaminants with Acetone and wire wheeled
them to erased the blue and also to generally scuff up the surface...
you should end up with a dull surface free of Blue marks...

 

[295566]

What you are experiencing is normal, IME.

With the bike in gear, the engine side is still spinning, which in turn spins the oil, and can impart minor force on the outer plate which will then spin the wheel. This is why you can stop the rear wheel with the brake and not see a change in RPM.

Also, did you wait for the bike to warm up a bit or is this on a cold start? It's normal for the clutch to drag more noticeably until the oil warms up.

Yup, this. Every bike I've ever owned has done exactly what the OP describes. Nothing to be concerned about.

 

[RightCoastBias]

I ran the adjustment at the lever all the way in and out, in conjunction with running the slave all the way in and out, and the behavior persisted.

It's quite odd that the bike never did this before the clutch work.

Oh well.

Thanks for y'alls help .

 

[afm199]

As mentioned, no biggie. When the oil gets hot it should stop.

 

[kuksul08]

bed them in by riding for a bit, i bet it will reduce

 

[ST Guy]

Heck, sometimes my shaft drive bike rear wheels would spin a bit and there's a heck of a lot more drag on a shaft drive compared to a chain.

Normal. Not a problem. Sometimes it'll do it, sometimes it won't.