Oil change intervals W synthetic?

norcalkid

Well-known member
Thinking about switching to synthetic oil. Just wondering what kind of mileage I can get if I use synthetic. Is it the same as switching to synthetic in a car where you can go from 3k up to 5k or so? VStrom 650 Really just thinking about making the change so I don't have to change oil half way through upcoming trip. Not cheap but would be convenient.(I know I can't just use any old car synthetic).

Thanks
 

kuksul08

Suh Dude
it depends on a lot of things but you can probably run it for 10,000 miles topping up as needed, and nothing bad will happen.
 

stangmx13

not Stan
get your oil tested if u really want to know. everything else is just guessing. even your 3K interval for conventional oil could be too frequent or infrequent.
 

bikewanker

Well-known member
Yes. I tend to go with longer intervals and color. Change after your trip, just enjoy your ride and check you oil. I would suggest you change to synthetic for 3k before your trip so you can compare usage, if any.
 

norcalkid

Well-known member
get your oil tested if u really want to know. everything else is just guessing. even your 3K interval for conventional oil could be too frequent or infrequent.

I actually think 3k is too infrequent. Oil starts looking dark at 2k, feel a little difference in the transmission at maybe 2600. I usually change oil at 24-2500???

I just want to switch so I don't have to change oil in a campsite half way through a trip then have to figure out where to recycle it. Not looking to get too scientific or test oil over the next few changes.
 
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Manufacturers recommend changing moto oil at 3000 miles if using mineral oil.

The advantage of Synthetic (blend or full) is that it extends the manufacturers recommendation to 4000 - 5000 miles.
The synthetic oil will also hold it's viscosity better as it gathers miles.

I know many will run their oils up to near (and over) 10K miles between changes.
I know I sometimes exceed the 5000 mile change point. But I would not take any of my bikes near 10K w/o changing the oil.

Hell, a couple of them only hold 1 quart and get worked as hard (or harder) than the bigger bikes. (450EXC & TW200) They get their oil (blood) changed much more frequently.
 

Busy Little Shop

Man behaving bikely...
Your oils wear protection capability is determined by the 90% base oil and its
10% additive package which contains the extreme pressure components...
your oil's interval is ready for a change only when the 10% additive package is
used up... if you still have additives you still have protection regardless of mileage...

Manufactures actually test oils in their engines to determine the longevity of the
additive package... if enough additives exist at 8K the manufactures states that
finding in the manual... if you wish to know for sure what percentile of your oil's
additives exist at 8K then send a sample to Blackstone Labs and pay extra to
know the TBN (Total Base Numbers) numbers...

Total Base Numbers or the percentile of the additive package of oils where 2 is
low and 12 is high and 10 is average... whether synthetic or mineral the rule is
the higher the TBN number the longer the oil change interval the lower the TBN
the shorter the interval...

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Darkness!

Where's the kick starter?
TL;DR. The short answer is, it depends. How old is your bike? What was your bike designed for? How was it maintained? What are your driving habits?

It depends on a lot of different factors. The main factors being; age (of the bike), history (What were the various owners like? Tracked? Daily driver? Commuter? Stop n Go or Freeway? etc.) and the final main factor being design of the motor.

If your bike is more 15 years old and you don't really know its history (i.e. how/whether it was well maintained) I wouldn't necessarily suggest switching to synthetic oil. The reason being, that (high/premium quality) synthetic oils often have very small and uniformly sized molecules and much lower viscosity (on average) than conventional oils of the same weight. That can sometimes result in seepage or even full on oil leakage on an old motor with dried up, hardened old oil seals. Especially on a low mileage, older bike that's been stored for several years. Not always, but I have seen many owners complain that after switching to a synthetic oil, their previously "perfect" bike now leaks oil.

Now to be fair, many owners don't realize that when they "switch" to a synthetic oil they often use a different weight oil than they did previously. The most common one being Rotella T6 5W-40. Which is a great moto oil. You just have to realize that it's a "thinner", less viscous oil than is usually spec'd for most bikes. Most are usually spec'd for 10W-40 unless you live in really cold or really hot climates. Most bikes do just fine on a slightly "thinner" or even a slightly "thicker" (20W-50) oil. I'm just saying that you need to experiment and pay attention.

Also, a LOT depends on how you drive your bike. Pop wheelies a lot? Slam through the gears while pretending to be Valentino Rossi on Redwood Road every chance you get? Change your oil more often. And check your various bolts, nuts and fasteners.

Driving gently and doing lots of short rides/errands where you're constantly starting and shutting off the bike creates other issues. You need to check the battery more often because it likely never gets a chance to recharge properly. It also probably never gets hot enough to really burn off excess water (from condensation) and probably doesn't get to full operating temp which can lead to excessive sludge buildup in the engine because the oil is still just warm, then cools off and "pools" inside oil galleys and passageways.

Like I said, it depends.

What I mean by design of the motor is that there is a huge variation on internal tolerances and size of oil passageways depending on what that particular manufacturer designed the motor for. Race-bred engines (think Ducatis) usually require higher quality, premium oils because they have smaller/tighter internal tolerances. Bikes that are purpose built for commuting or touring generally speaking aren't as demanding. There are exceptions everywhere, but for the most part, this holds true.
 

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DannoXYZ

Well-known member
I actually think 3k is too infrequent. Oil starts looking dark at 2k, feel a little difference in the transmission at maybe 2600. I usually change oil at 24-2500???

I just want to switch so I don't have to change oil in a campsite half way through a trip then have to figure out where to recycle it. Not looking to get too scientific or test oil over the next few changes.

Dark colour has nothing to do with lubrication ability. That's just carbon from combustion. As mentioned, send your oil in for UOA and look at TBN. Over time, change in UOA will tell you how engine's wearing based upon levels of various metals.
 

kuksul08

Suh Dude
I actually think 3k is too infrequent. Oil starts looking dark at 2k, feel a little difference in the transmission at maybe 2600. I usually change oil at 24-2500???

I just want to switch so I don't have to change oil in a campsite half way through a trip then have to figure out where to recycle it. Not looking to get too scientific or test oil over the next few changes.

My wee turns the oil black after 20 miles.

Just run some nice mobil 1 10w40 and you will be fine for your trip :) Bring some to top up when needed.
 
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