Ninja 1000 strange idling/servo twitch in subthrottle

MoldTheClay

Well-known member
Some background: Warning, lots of information.

I was previously having a strange issue when my engine was very cold during the winter where the idle would fluctuate while the engine was cold. This problem would go away after the engine warmed up usually, so I didn't pay it much mind.

Some weeks later I heard a strange twitchy buzzing noise when my power was on but the ignition had not yet been pressed and the bike started. I pulled everything off until I could see the intakes and saw a twitch in my sub throttle body butterflies. I had no idea if this continued while I had the engine running or not, as I didn't want to start the engine with the air box off and potentially inhale debris into my engine. At that moment it seemed harmless, so I left it at that. Bike ran fine enough so didn't bother with it much.

Well NOW the strange idling is happening while the engine is hot on a warm/hot day like we've been having. Not sure if it will go away again when the weather cools but this made me look into it a bit more. I pulled off my left fairing to look at where my throttle cables connect to my throttle body. That servo twitch also controls a small nub that nudges the throttle open a little bit. The purpose of that little arm (I'm guessing) is to open the throttle enough to keep the bike warm on command from the ECU until it is at proper operating temp. It looks like there is either noise in the wires causing that signal to fire erratically, a failed sensor causing inconsistent information and the ECU is trying to correct for that, or angry spirits are haunting my throttle body. Honestly, I'm at a loss.

Any hints where I might look to solve this? If I hold the throttle down hard enough in the closed position the bike idles beautifully and holds proper idle. The fluctuation is 100% caused by a signal causing that little nub to bump the bottom end of the throttle around when I am idling.

when I am at operating rpm everything seems to run totally fine however. No effect with my riding whatsoever. That strange signal has me worried though, especially since it now also occurs when the bike is hot.
 
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Busy Little Shop

Man behaving bikely...
Start with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To
determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a
refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage...

Lead Acid
12.8 or higher is a good battery...
12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge...
12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable...

Lithium
batteries require a different routine than lead acid... understanding the
chargers operation is key to success...


At the end of your ride connect the Shoria charger... Push don't hold
buttons... push either STORE or CHARGE button once and wake up
confirmation is signaled by 1 beep... either push button STORE or
CHARGE once and activation is signaled by 3 beeps... Selecting CHARGE
will bring the battery to 14.4V... but if your bikes charging system
raised the battery higher than 14.4V nothing will happen... CHARGE
mode does not maintain 14.4V... Leavening the battery on CHARGE will
lead to discharge... Select STORE mode and the charger will
maintain/float the battery at approximately 13.3V... that means no
charge begins until volts drop from the high of 14.4V down to 13.3
V... Your battery will rest on STORE mode for as long as power is
supplied to the charger...


But when you are ready to ride push CHARGE to cancel the STORE mode.
Press the CHARGE button momentarily and listen for the triple beep. The
Green light will then begin to flash. It may take up to 30 minutes for the
battery to reach full capacity, approximately 14.4V. It will change to a solid
green once it reaches full capacity... now you're ready to start your ride with
a 100% full capacity batt... if you begin your ride off STORE mode the battery
is only at 13.3V which is 90% capacity...

14.340 100%
13.300 90%
13.270 80%
13.160 70%
13.130 60%
13.116 50%
13.104 40%
12.996 30%
12.866 20%
12.730 10%
9.200 0%
 

ST Guy

Well-known member
Only a brand new lead/acid battery will see 12.8. As a lead/acid battery ages, you will eventually only see 12.7, then 12.6, then 12.5, etc. Cars and motorcycles are designed to operate within a reasonable battery voltage range as they are fully aware of the above.
 
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