Nampa ID to Glacier and Back

CaptCrash

Dazed and Confused
Nampa Idaho to Jackson Wyoming. June 13, 2016. 397 Miles. Rain x 60 minutes.

Today’s gala adventure started by running down I84, getting off at Mountian Home, cutting across the back to Glenns Ferry and then a 85-90 run from Glenns Ferry to Idaho Falls. Things were smooth, calm and most excellent until we get to Idaho Falls exit (119) and we are rolling along in a pocket between 2 small packs of cars; 85mph spot on. Not so fast as to be a ticket magnet but just rolling with the faster traffic. I’ve worked my way over to the exit/entrance lane when suddenly the delivery van I’m sliding in behind makes a wild swerve and dives into number 2 lane. (I grew up with the number 1 being the outside lane, #2 to the left of it, and 3, 4 etc running off toward the center median. This allows trucks to drive in the #1 lane, use #2 as a passing lane and lane #3 is a ticket). Back to the situation at hand; delivery boy bails left, what the frickity frack, and I see a silver, late model Hyundai sedan going about 40 miles an hour in lane 1. I’m suddenly confronted with a closure rate (delta) of 45mph and my exit is ½ mile up. My brain does some calculations and I hit the binders, scrub off some speed, let the brakes go, swerve left, and pass a gray haired gentleman who’s either inspecting his own junk or reading a cellphone. Literally, he’s head down, driving with his knees and both hands are down in his lap. Maybe it was self-abuse thing, maybe it was texting—don’t know, don’t care—just really avoided a deadly situation with a very quick brake and swerve move. Getting to my exit was a tad exciting but everything worked out.

As a kindness to Julie I didn’t flip the guy off, if I did, who knows, he might have enjoyed it.

Traveling up into the Gran Targhee National Forest was interesting. The landscape is like a crumped paper, you suddenly go from flat dry farms into rolling hills that almost imperceptibly get higher and deeper and BOOM, you’re in the Tetons. As we traveled we could see rain and storms on the horizon—well, what we could see between mountains—and every time we make a turn up a canyon we turn away from the weather toward blue sky. I keep an eye on cars coming the other way to see if any are wet; they aren’t. I keep an eye on the sky and we keep heading away from what is clearly rain in the distance. Then I start to notice that the pavement is changing color…because it’s wet. We are on the back side of the cloudburst chasing it. For the first time in a long time I say, “That’s it, we’re changing into raingear”, figuring that we will and then the rain will not fall. You know the rule, put it and it won’t rain, leave it off and it will. We suit up, get climbing the hill to the pass where we’ll drop into Jackson and it rains! Thank Odin we have our gear on as the temperature drops down into the mid-50s. If we had gotten wet it would have been a disaster. We often think of hypothermia as. a winter problem and forget it’s really just a matter of dropping your core temperature and that can happen in surprisingly mild temperatures.

How do I know? Well, because I’m not very bright.

After we check into our motel in Jackson my publisher Mike Fitterling arrives. We decide to walk 1.5 miles down the road to Bubba’s BBQ, a Jackson fixture that several folks told me I needed to hit. Hey, we’d been siting all day! I had the combo rib plate which is delicious while the mac and cheese and beans were good as well. We’re in Bubbas. It starts getting dark, which it shouldn’t because it’s only about 6:30 and then the heavens open. Comfortable in the booth, with no raingear and light, it fits easily into the saddlebags clothes on we watch as it pours outside. Torrentially. Checking the weather on the web it says the rain will stop in 25 minutes which, impressively, it does. We lollygag in the booth for few extra moments and then notice folks are driving by without their windshield wipers on so we head out to walk back to our room so Julie and I can bunk down and Mike can head over to where he’s staying. (The Adventure Rider Forum has a forum where likeminded people can pitch a tent or sleep in the spare room and Mike uses it and loves it as well as being a host to the wandering adventurer).

Rain never falls on us as we walk home. The temperature has dropped to about 50 and after a few minutes I notice that I’m dragging my feet and stumbling every once in a while. We go into the K-Mart to get some necessities like Diet Mountain Dew and I trip over the threshold going in AND out. Small heaves in the sidewalk catch my toe. I’m thinking, “Boy, I’m tired, must be really out of shape”. Arranging a meet time for Tuesday we send Mike down the road to his overnight spot. I decide to hit the shower and the hot water feels great, can’t get enough and hang out in the warmth of the spray for a while. Finally, worried I’m wasting water the municipality of Jackson would need I kill the shower. Looking for a towel I begin to shiver uncontrollably, violently. The shivering won’t stop. I ask Julie why the room’s so cold and she reminds me I asked to keep it cool. I have to dive under the covers or I’m shaking like a leaf.

Was I hypothermic? I had a couple of symptoms but they didn’t all manifest until at once. Did a cold walk back to the room leave a weakened system that let some lurking bug a change to hit me? I don’t know. I do know that I the stumbles walking back, shivering later and shall we say, poor speech while shivering. Jules said I didn’t feel feverish and I wonder now if it was the culmination of running cold all day and not staying warm enough or simply some illness taking an opportunity. Either way let me say this: There’s nothing better than having someone with you who loves you. Someone to watch over you and be a true partner full of concern and sympathy. I’m writing this Tuesday morning and I’m feeling great and ready to roll and my guardian angel literally will be sitting over my shoulder. Love you Sweetie, thanks for being here.
 

CaptCrash

Dazed and Confused
Jackson Wyoming to Butte Montana, 397miles to 710 miles, Rain x intermittent, vicious winds

OK, here’s the deal. I got lost in Yellowstone National Park. On a motorcycle. Twice. Were there mitigating circumstance like the abysmal way the Park Service puts up signage? Yes. But I was holding the handlebars, I was pilot, it’s on me. Got lost trying to get into Grand Teton National Park…so that’s 3 in one day. Trifecta! Oh, and when you’re making a clockwise rotation of a 100+ mile ring road turning RIGHT will not get you out of the ring, you have to turn left to get out—stupid SIRI.

I was most taken by the Grand Teton area. The mountains are like the Alps, violent and sudden, rough, springing from the valley floor like teeth from a jaw. Yellowstone itself is pleasant enough, filled with 6 to 18 foot tall trees that are all the same age rebuilding from the big fires and the hills and mountains have a velvety feel from the uniformity of re-growth. Recently in the Sawtooths I’ve seen deer bucks with pike antlers covered in velvet and that’s exactly the texture I see on the countryside. We got rained on again but unlike other trips we got into our raingear just before the heavens opened. The real issue again today was temperature with a guest appearance by nasty, vicious winds. The highest temp I saw was 64 but for most of the day it was locked at 50.

I enjoyed the ride. We kept to the Rockefeller Scenic Byway where we could and I found traveling along the Snake River in a state other than Idaho to be a fun sidebar. The roads are in good repair and amply wide. Beware of bison, not because they’re going to kill you but when they’re visible from the road every tour bus, every Winnebago, every tourist stops and gets out to take pictures and approach the bison to see if they can get trampled. I happen to know that Bison are not friendly loving critters and I only slowed to see if some poor soul from the Pacific Rim was going to get stompled into the ground. Once inside Yellowstone I only saw Bison once, on the way out. From a wildlife standpoint Yellowstone was pretty much a bust. If you want to see geysers, hot springs or tourists then Yellowstone is a goldmine. We watched Old Faithful do its thing. We overpaid for T-shirts. I bought stickers for my truck. Took a couple of pictures. I’ve now been there and done that. Yellowstone off the list. I don’t feel a burning need to return. Like Mount Rushmore what I saw when I got to Yellowstone didn’t match my mental/emotional vision. Not that they aren’t cool they were, maybe I’m a victim of National Park Porn and my expectations were all blown out of proportion and when I saw the real thing it was a letdown.

On the way to Butte—wait, let me be honest: by the time we finally got to West Yellowstone I really had no idea where we were going. I thought it was Kalispell but we never saw a sign with Kalispell on it. Then I thought we were going to Bozeman until we turned on a road at pointed to Helena and I thought, “Oh, we’re going to Helena”. I have no idea how to get to Glacier National Park except to go north. I thought for a time we were headed to Great Falls. Basically I just went where I was told and eventually I narrowed it down to Butte. The third largest statue in the US is the Blessed Virgin and she overlooks Butte. Our Lady of the Rockies stands 90 feet tall and gazes down over the city to guard and protect mothers everywhere. It’s 3500 feet above the city and is clearly visible for anywhere in town. Pretty cool if you ask me. If you’re tough and buff enough apparently you can hike to the base of the statue. I won’t be doing that.

The theme today was expectations. Grand Teton pass al expectations because there were none and it was a spectacular surprise. Yellowstone disappointed because I expected too much. Butte was cool because I had no idea there was a great big statue of the Virgin looking out for it. I expected rain, acted on it and was dry and warm all day. One unexpected pleasure was Earthquake Lake or “Quake Lake” as it’s known. Quake lake was created by a 7.5 magnitude earthquake in 1959. The lake is 6 miles long and 190 feet deep. A huge landslide during the quake sealed up the river and created a big ass lake. Pretty cool, it’s not that Yellowstone didn’t have lakes and stuff but Quake Lake was a total happy surprise. Coming out of West Yellowstone I hadn’t expected violent winds but they appeared and we dealt with it. The bikes were getting knocked around pretty dang good. Mike’s mpg dropped; mine didn’t. I have expected to enjoy myself and am pleased to point out that I am. My expectations every time I get on bike is to have a good time and I always manage it. I hope you enjoy riding as much as we.
 

CaptCrash

Dazed and Confused
Butte Montana to Kalispell Montana, 710 miles to 1051 miles, good weather.

I truly found BFE. If you don’t know what that means look it up and I apologize for soiling your soul. BFE is in Avon Montana. Go. Look. Try and find people or fuel. Good luck with that. It’s Mad Maxville. However it is the genesis of Montana 141 and 141 is a nice piece of road. 70mph, good surface, rolling grasslands with occasional forest, open curves with good visibility—the sort of place a less morally scrupulous person might play “how fast can this thing go?” Fortunately I’m not that sort of fellow. The ride was nice and we found fuel in a very quint general store in Elliston. By quaint I simply mean a REAL general store where the only concrete is a 20 by 20 patch around the 2 pumps and up to the front door; all else is gravel. The guy behind the counter and his wife bought the store from his folks 15 years ago and Mom and Pop founded the store in 1972. In fancy speak: this was a multi-generational traditional American small mercantile serving a community of under 300. And they say America ain’t great.

Mike, Julie and I are on the road for Glacier National Park, known for glaciers (duh), mountain goats and grizzly bears this national park spans 1.2 million acres and is infested with glaciers (25, down from 150 in the early 19th century) and mountain lakes. Arriving at the visitors’ center we’re pumped up to see some glaciers and ride the “Going to the Sun Road” over Logan pass. Unfortunately a quick “what’s up” with a volunteer at the counter turns up that the pass isn’t open yet; they’re plowing from both sides but haven’t met in the middle yet. So it goes. However we can ride up to where the road closes, turn around and come back. We’re at the top of the country. A quality quarterback could throw a ball and it’ll land in Canada. Of course we take the ride and it’s worth it. On one side of the road is Lake McDonald, 10 miles of cold blue water and on the other is dense forest of lodge pole pine, western red cedar, larch and hemlock (the tree, not the Socrates killing kind). The forest has a wonderfully creepy vibe because of its dense canopy. No direct light reaches the forest floor and there’s little undergrowth, in some areas it reminded me of driving through the enchanted forest in the Wizard of Oz. In the dim monochromatic light fallen trees lay jumbled among the living like some strange pick-up-stix puzzle. Like I said, there’s almost a creepy vibe to it.

As with any trip you have that WTF moment. We’re standing in the parking lot and up rolls a BMW GS. I decide to share a “Capt. Crash” flashlight/pen swag and I walk up say “Hi” and find out I’m talking to a couple from Boise. Not more than 15 miles from where we started from. If you’re a AdventureRider.com fan we’re talking about a member named “Idaho Scout” who’s on a long trip with his wife. The traveling rider community means we find those near to us in faraway places. We met all sorts out there. One gentleman we met at the Conoco had abandoned a journey with friends to Alaska because his companions were pushers and driving to get mega-miles a day and he just wasn’t up for it so he calls a friend who’s looking to go south and he’s going to join up and ride back down country. Riders are going every which way across the continent and they’re good natured and willing to share stories, time and resources. Mike will be bunking at tonight at another generous riders place, because that’s just the kind of folks riders are. The fraternity of riders is an impressive thing to see. I was buying some touristy stuff and the guy in front of me sees I’m carrying a helmet and BOOM conversation and camaraderie.

I often say, “People are scum” because of all the dreadful things that happen in the world. Bike swiped? People are scum. Got cut off by a left turn, dropped the bike and the offending weasel ran off? People are scum. Find your bike on its side? People are scum. Of late I’ve found myself saying, “People are good”. Meet a rider from Florida in Montana and have a good talk? People are good. Guy asks, “Can I help” even if you don’t know him or need it? People are good. 10 year old kid walks up to you at a turnout and says, “I like your helmet, it’s cool”. Dad smiles and lets the kid talk with you for a minute. People are good. Motorcycles make people good. Motorcycles are good.

Sorry it’s a bit stream of consciousness but I’m warm, dry and happy; with the loving Mrs. Crash in a well-cared for vintage motel. We stopped in Hungry Horse Montana and had huckleberry pie with huckleberry ice cream. Life is good.
 

bcj

Spagthorpe RA
Awww damn. Yeah, the huckleberry berry good at that stop.
Huckleberry syrup and whipped cream on waffles for breakfast is good too.
 

CaptCrash

Dazed and Confused
Kalispell Montana to Challis Idaho, 1051 miles to 1377 miles, AM rain.

Waking up the lovely Mrs. Crash turns to me and asks, “Do you hear rain?” Listening I hear the clear pitter-patter of H2-oh-man on the windows and roof. Rain on a road day generally means only one thing to me: sleep in. However, extra sleep doesn’t mean better navigational skills. As you can see we’re in Challis, Idaho. Challis is a wonderful town and the surrounding landscape really reminds me of southern Utah but we’re supposed to be in Lewiston, Idaho where the Palouse reads rolling hills and grassland.

Oops.

My bad. Coming out of Kalispell I was on highway 93 and was going to use highway 12 to crossover the Lolo national forest. The problem came when I didn’t seen the highway 12 junction. Seriously. No clue. Blew through it like a clown making balloon animals. We’re buzzing along and suddenly Jules is in my ear with “Pull over, you need to stop, right now!” My heart stops and I stop the bike. In my head I’m running all kinds of scenarios, maybe she dropped her phone or a glove or we hit something or…
“We are off course” she says, “We have to turn around.”
Says I, “How far do we need to go back?” Surely this is just a couple of miles.
“27 miles.”

Oops. “

I’m not opposed to backtracking. Backtracking is something I’ve done before and frankly, it’s not a big deal to make a U-turn and go back and fix a navigational mistake. But 27 miles, even with Montana’s generous 70 mile an hour speed limit means losing almost a half hour off track and another half hour getting back on track. I had been hoping to hit the Lolo Pass and giving that a spin but, dude, an hour? I ask Jules where 93 goes.

“Nowhere” she answers.

It can’t go nowhere I think. I’ve been nowhere and that’s Avon, Montana. “It can’t go nowhere. It has to go somewhere.” I say. There is some grumbling and mumbling and I’m instructed to turn left in a couple of miles. Now I’m easily confused but I know that if you’re traveling south and turn left that’s east and we need to be going west. “What’s the next turn after that?” I ask. The answer comes back, “Left”. SIRI is simply making a box U-turn. In my head I say “F*ck it” but it comes out my lips as, “Well we need to be headed south anyway so I’m sticking to 93. See if you can figure out where it ends.” Rev the bike, ease out the clutch, back up to that wonderful Montana 70mph. Since I’m sure all speedometers read high (dang Obama) I run about 5 percent higher on the speedo.

93 carries you into the Bitterroot Mountains and you hit the Salmon river and go through really attractive forested passes. As you climb the hill heading into Idaho there’s a great series of switchbacks and corners marked 20 mph and wonderful back and forth, snaking road. The Montana side of the border is freshly paved while the Idaho side could use some TLC, nothing dangerous just a little chunking out and whatnot.

We pull of at a big turnout to stretch our legs and read the informational signs. Turns out we’re in Bighorn Sheep heaven. The signs say there’s loads of Bighorn around this spot so I start scanning the rough terrain looking to see if one might be about. There’s bare, crumbling vertical faces with the occasional Ponderosa pine and a fire from few years ago scoured some of the less straight up and down bits and there’s good grass growing but I don’t see any sheep. Now knowing that we’re headed to Salmon, Idaho and food and a bed I’m bummed but not too much. We load up and head out and turning the first corner, standing on the side of the road are 5 or 6 Bighorn ewes and three or four lambs of varying sizes! They look scruffy as they’ve been shedding but there they are. Sometimes navigational errors are for the best. In Salmon we couldn’t find a quick room so we traveled the extra hour down into Challis where we spent our night.
 

FLH03RIDER

Recedite, plebes!
Sir Crash,

Excellent journey and narrative! :thumbup
Ha, ha, but you know what "they" say... "Pics or it didn't happen".

Oh, and name of establishment where huckleberry pie with huckleberry ice cream was consumed? We might have to post up a "A Ride For The Pie" ride in the "Group Ride" section. :) How cool would that be, a group ride out to Hungry Horse Montana for huckleberry pie with huckleberry ice cream, turn around and ride back!

You and the Misses be safe out there and have fun, er... more fun!
 

CaptCrash

Dazed and Confused
Challis, Idaho to Nampa, Idaho 1377 miles to 1589 miles, cold AM, perfect PM

I waited a couple of days to write up the last day. The final day of our journey begins cold at 45F. Challis is a wonderfully friendly town. At the motel the night before the manager recommends a restaurant and then offers to pick up if they can’t deliver—which they couldn’t because their delivery guy was out of cell range—and the manager come through and returns with our chow and a couple of plates and real silverware. If you’re in Challis stay at the Northgate Inn it’s not fancy but it’s friendly and sometimes that is the most important thing. The landscape for the first couple of hours is strikingly Southern Utah with reds, creams and grey tinged with green copper. This is still Bighorn Sheep country and there are yellow diamonds and flashing lights to remind you they may not obey traffic laws. Reflecting on it now I haven’t spent much time in central and eastern Idaho and I’ve been neglecting it. Jackson is an easy day away and Yellowstone can be done in one hard day’s ride. Grand Teton is definitely worth the ride. As they say, a prophet is without honor in his own land and I’ve been very disrespectful and dismissed my nearby eastern treasures.

Once we get to Stanley, Idaho it’s a ride we’ve done before. To the south the Sawtooth Mountains live up to their name, looking like God dropped the blade of his bowsaw after he shredded it on the Alps. Sharp peaks and evenly placed gaps gives the imagination enough feed to really embrace the name Sawtooth. We’re on the north side and perpetual snow blankets the jagged 10,000 foot heights. In the valley highway 21 runs as straight as an arrow for miles heading to the Boise National Forest. There’s a climb then as we descend into Lowman we hit truly familiar ground and turning right toward Banks I know the ground and the curves all the way home. For us this a short trip. The past two summers we did four and five thousand mile trips and a couple of weeks on the road. Our navigation has never been this difficult; I was lost a lot. Being lost isn’t new to me, it just means I’m on new ground and need to figure out how best to adapt to get where I want to be. The entire day into Challis was simply “going South” until we found a path West. Navigating with my nose was a curious thing. I knew the basic direction I needed to go and just pointed my nose that direction.

Home is a curious thing, I grew up in the San Francisco Bay Area and for a long, long time that was Home. When my father passed away 10 years ago I began to release my grip on the anchor that “I’m from the Bay Area”. My little brother suffered a massive brain hemorrhage six years ago and we then moved my mother “up here” to Idaho which unplugged me from California leaving only the thread of my brother who is now in managed care. Everywhere we go on the bike folks young, old, and everything in between—male, female, single, married or whatever—asks us “Where you from?” There is no caveat in our answer: Idaho. There comes a time when you have to accept who you are, what you are, where you are. The other day my son posted about who he was and where he has been and where he’s going, it was brave and beautiful. I realized that we’re all a little lost, maybe in denial or just unable to admit who are.

I should probably ask permission but I’m going to share his thoughts:

“My heart breaks for all the victims and their families. I've spent most my day holding back tears or crying. I've been a ball of emotions. I'm angry, hurt, and confused by the fact that 50 people had their lives taken from them and many others were injured and terrorized because of who they were and who they loved.
I've also felt a lot of guilt, I feel like I've let hateful people like the one who took those beautiful lives win. I've spent most my life living in fear of who I was. I feared that the people around me would turn their backs on me for who I was. I let the hate convince me I couldn't be loved for who I was, that I didn't deserve happiness, that I should fear and hate myself.
I ask my fellow members of the LGBTQ community to relish and rejoice in who you are. So many of our community that have come before us have fought to get us where we are, don't let this event erase their hard work. Don't live in fear.
To friends and family, help make LGBTQ people feel safe and loved. You may not be a direct member of this community but we are all connected, there will always be a child, a sibling, a grandchild, a cousin, a Uncle or aunt, a friend who is LGBTQ. Make sure those people know you care.
Don't live life with a heart full of fear and hate, live life with a heart full of love and compassion.”


This is a young man in my home. All my children are from Idaho—regardless of where they were born. People like my son Christian who knows who his and isn’t afraid anymore. People like my daughter Mychal, her husband Zack and “Throttle Pup” our first grandchild. Andrew, my son, who still lives by the “Andy Code” we developed all those years ago to “Defend the defenseless, befriend the friendless and always do the right thing”; his spiritual and happy wife Kenzie are Idaho too. There’s one more: my son Robert who’s a year out of high school and in that brilliant place of threshold where he stands waiting for life to reveal where he’s going. I believe that he’ll go Idaho too, he won’t admit it but he’s one of the most kind and caring humans you’ll ever meet.

My wife is native born Idaho. She is the one that picks us up, kisses boo-boos and is our conscience; a face that tells you clearly you when you done right or wrong. Me? I’m from Idaho now and I’ll be OK. To quote Billy Idol:

“I don't care if it's dark or scary
Long as I got magnetic Mary
Ridin' on the dashboard of my car
I feel that I'm protected amply
I've got the love of the whole damn family
Ridin' on the dashboard of my car
With my plastic Jesus
I said goodbye
And I'll go far”

Oh, what a lucky man I am. I’m home. In Idaho.
 

CaptCrash

Dazed and Confused
Idaho/Montana Line US 93


Glacier National Park


Huckleberry Cream Cheeser Cinnamon Roll Wheat Montana/Kalispell


Grand Teton National Park


Tetons


Yeah.


Huckleberry Pie with Huckleberry Ice Cream "The Huckleberry Patch" Glacier
 

louemc

Well-known member
Wow Capt. Crash, You da Man...

That whole area is my turf, in my younger days...
 
Last edited:

two wheel tramp

exploring!
I am loving the write up and photos. You write well and I love seeing reports from out of the way places.

But those photos... Especially of that pie. :cool That would be one hell of a pie ride!
 
Top