Master link a tad tight. Should I replace it?

sportsluvr

Well-known member
I tightened it a *tiny* bit too much, so when I move it slowly, I can definitely see the stiffness.

It is only $16. Should I replace it?

(I feel like replacing it only because it is on my mind all the time.)
 
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RickM

Well-known member
I tightened it a *tiny* bit too much, so when I move the it slowly, I can definitely see the stiffness.

It is only $16. Should I replace it?

(I feel like replacing it only because it is on my mind all the time.)

I would replace. Chain failure can be ugly
 

xx848xx

Ducati Pilot
Assuming it's the rivet style, correct? If you look real close at the mushroomed part of the rivet, can you see any splits in the metal? If so, definitely replace it. If not, you should be able to measure it per the manufacture's recommendations to see if you're okay. But if it's really bugging you, that's a good reason to just go ahead and do it. I always keep a good supply of those handy...
 

xx848xx

Ducati Pilot
Not sure how good this will show up, but here's what I mean when I say 'split':

You definitely do not want to ride if it's like this; replace it!
 

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stangmx13

not Stan
Measure the width of the link w a mic or caliper and compare to the other ones. If it's only a little stiff it prob won't be too far off, and I'd still run it.
 

Pushrod

Well-known member
$16 and the question is whether to gamble or to buy insurance when serious ugly hangs in the odds?

On a tangent, when I set a master link I use a shim that later gets extracted after the rivet is set so the kink never happens.
 

sportsluvr

Well-known member
Thanks. No, I don't see a split and, in fact, you can hardly tell if the link is even riveted at all.

when I set a master link I use a shim that later gets extracted after the rivet is set

Off of the riveted side? Explain.

003.jpg

Keep a good supply of them around? $15 a pop? That will buy me a good lunch at my sushi place.:teeth
 

louemc

Well-known member
I tightened it a *tiny* bit too much, so when I move it slowly, I can definitely see the stiffness.

It is only $16. Should I replace it?

(I feel like replacing it only because it is on my mind all the time.)

Replace it ... It's too sketchy on critical fit assess tolerances to risk the bad scene.....
And the cost of the bad scene, is Too High .
 

sportsluvr

Well-known member
So how do I know that I have riveted it, um, enough? IOW, when do I stop tightening the pins with the rivet tool? Thanks.
 

afm199

Well-known member
Replace it. It doesn't take much at all when you tighten it. If the head is 7-10 thou larger than it was pre tightened, that's enough.
 

louemc

Well-known member
Replace it. It doesn't take much at all when you tighten it. If the head is 7-10 thou larger than it was pre tightened, that's enough.

:thumbup YES, Love reading Your Posts... Ya Always say it precisely right... :thumbup
 

Ironbutt

Loves the anecdotal
Good god Y'all.. it's not going to come flying apart! LOL They're amazingly tough.

I say leave it alone. It'll loosen up as the O-ring flattens.
 

ScottRNelson

Mr. Dual Sport Rider
I've squeezed a master link a little too much before and didn't have any later issues, but I'm not recommending it. The chain didn't fail on me.

If you install a master link too tight, the O-rings (or X-rings) won't work like intended and will fail early, then you'll lose lubricant on those two pins. That's assuming you put enough lubricant in there in the first place, which can be tricky too.

There is a photo of chain shims below. I don't know why ALL chain manufacturers can't just include a couple of those with the chain to guarantee that the spacing is correct. It can't cost them more than a few cents to include them. However, the last new chain that I installed needed a slightly smaller space than those particular shims allowed, so I wasn't able to use them. I just measured carefully and did everything slowly to make sure that I got it right.

ChainSpacer1.jpg


ChainSpacer2.jpg
 

afm199

Well-known member
Good god Y'all.. it's not going to come flying apart! LOL They're amazingly tough.

I say leave it alone. It'll loosen up as the O-ring flattens.

chains are, the orings just deteriorate and fall out when squashed too much.
 

EastBayDave

- Kawasaki Fanatic -
The older chains did come apart sometimes, especially if you didn't maintain it like you should. Back in the 80's a riding bud on a built Z-1 thrashed it all over the place, lubing it with WD40. Told him bad idea many times...

Then one day headed to the twisties he flies by me "chirping" 2nd gear (he liked doing that.) Just as he passed I hear tha-wack! As the chain goes over my shoulder missing me by a few feet.

Yep, his 630 DID chain broke, taking out his crankcase (@ centerline), & case protector on it's way rearward flight plan. Since then I never treated a chain lightly on my bike, I'm never going to see that again! Freaked me out man...

The broken cases flowed oil; had to go get the truck....:thumbdown :afm199
 

sportsluvr

Well-known member
Well, I think it is done right now. One dude in a YT video said to measure the diameter of a pin on another link and make sure that the master link pin diameter is about the same. So, I measured and it is about 5.5mm; but once I finished, ML pin diameter is about 5.2mm, so I *tried* to tighten it further. No luck.

It turns out that the rivet pin does NOT go in any further. It is not supposed to!

Anyway, I think I'm paranoid and was overthinking it.
 
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