KX100 break in procedure
- Thread starter sonny62
- Start date
the grinch
Well-known member
I break in two strokes in the following manner,
After fresh coolant and case oil,
Start and let warm up for about fifteen minutes, blip the throttle slightly to make sure the cylinder is getting oil.
Shut down and let cool for at least an hour.
Start up, let warm, then ride slowly for about fifteen minutes, not exceeding half throttle, and no quick throttle openings. Very mellow.
Let cool for at least an hour.
Start, let warm up, and ride conservatively for about fifteen minutes, not using more than three quarter throttle, fairly mellow, don't rip the throttle open, put a little bit of load on the bike if you can in the form of small hills with short climbs.
Cool down for at least an hour.
Start, warm up, ride for about fifteen minutes, full throttle openings for short bursts, don't be overly aggressive, but try to put some load on the bike.
let cool for at least an hour
start, warm up, dial in the carb, let er rip.
After fresh coolant and case oil,
Start and let warm up for about fifteen minutes, blip the throttle slightly to make sure the cylinder is getting oil.
Shut down and let cool for at least an hour.
Start up, let warm, then ride slowly for about fifteen minutes, not exceeding half throttle, and no quick throttle openings. Very mellow.
Let cool for at least an hour.
Start, let warm up, and ride conservatively for about fifteen minutes, not using more than three quarter throttle, fairly mellow, don't rip the throttle open, put a little bit of load on the bike if you can in the form of small hills with short climbs.
Cool down for at least an hour.
Start, warm up, ride for about fifteen minutes, full throttle openings for short bursts, don't be overly aggressive, but try to put some load on the bike.
let cool for at least an hour
start, warm up, dial in the carb, let er rip.
Last edited:
corndog67
Pissant Squid
After having owned many 2 strokes over the years from 60, 125, 250, 500 singles to Kawasaki triples, I've found out that it doesn't matter how you break them in, what matters is who did the machine work. If you've got a new factory cylinder and piston, you're probably good to go. Fire it up, warm it up, check for leaks, shut it down, let it cool off, retorque and then boogie, it's ready to go.
If you are putting a new piston in an old cylinder, it's already looser than a new cylinder would be. Haul ass.
How long do you expect a 100 piston to last?
If you are putting a new piston in an old cylinder, it's already looser than a new cylinder would be. Haul ass.
How long do you expect a 100 piston to last?
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Thanks for the response..
Well I got the top end rebuilt and had 2hrs on it in August 2011. Went to the track in April 2012 and rode it for a total of 3hrs then the motor seized. Not sure what happened, the motor was feeling strong then all of a sudden the rear wheel locked up. Not sure if it's due to incorrect heating cycles or the rebuild? :rolleyes
It's the second rebuild on the same cylinder..
Well I got the top end rebuilt and had 2hrs on it in August 2011. Went to the track in April 2012 and rode it for a total of 3hrs then the motor seized. Not sure what happened, the motor was feeling strong then all of a sudden the rear wheel locked up. Not sure if it's due to incorrect heating cycles or the rebuild? :rolleyes
It's the second rebuild on the same cylinder..