reckon
the cake is a lie
This is a re-post from an earlier thread, hopefully more people will read this if it has "how to" in the title line
have fun:
PAINTING A SPROTBILE IN 743 EASY STEPS
for paint I like the polyurethane base coat/ clearcoat system, it's the easiest to apply, and works very well for motorcycles.
inexpensive paints like OMNI or NASON work well, and are relatively easy to apply.
better quality paints like PPG (dbc or dbu) or Dupont (chromabase) or even DIAMONT, or GLASURIT, will cost considerably more, and will be even easier to apply, cover better, last longer etc,..
there is no reason why you shouldn't use OMNI or NASON for your initial attempts, it's good paint, and works well for beginners, stays flexible, and is easy to work with
you need: (for an average sprotbile)
1 QT Polyurethane Primer+ the hardener
1QT Polyurethane Basecoat (needs no hardener)
1 GAL Polyurethane REDUCER (it's like thinner) make SURE you get the proper temp range reducer (ask the paint counter guys)
1 QT Polyurethane CLEARCOAT+ the hardener.
they SHOULD give you some free paint sticks and strainers when you buy your paint, you'll also need some mixing cups, and a couple of "TACK RAGS" (you have to buy those)
ALSO, you will need the P SHEETS (product info sheets) for each of the products you are using, the p sheet has ALL the information for mixing, spraying, drying times, compatable substrates etc, so ASK for those, and the paint supplier SHOULD have a P sheet for every paint product he sells, as mandated by law.
If not you can look up most P sheet info online by doing a google search for PPG P SHEETS or NASON P SHEETS, or whatever paint line you are using.
If you are using HVLP guns this should be enough paint to EASILY paint the whole bike, AND the frame, and have plenty left over for some practice panels that you SHOULD do, before shooting the bike.
BASICS: paint will NOT STICK to wax, or unsanded paint, or dirty plastics, or oil, or WD-40, and polyurethanes will melt most spraycan paints in a heartbeat, so any rattlecan paint gets sanded OFF, after the following step:
first thing is CLEAN THE PARTS BEFORE DOING ANYTHING, use HOT WATER, and a degreaser type detergent (dawn, etc,...)
if you just start sanding, you are grinding the wax and grime into the surface and might cause fisheye problems later on.
remove any decals, stickers, or graphics that aren't painted over.
once thats done, you'll need to scuff the parts all over: I like to use dry sandpaper, but you can use wetsanding paper and water if you like, some people find it easier.
whatever type you use follow these grit instructions:
Initial Sanding for the pre-scuffing you can use 320-400 everywhere, this is a fast scuffing action, you are trying to dull the surface so the products used it the following steps will stick.
BODY FILLER gets shaped with 40 grit up to about 150 grit (I like 80)
GLAZING PUTTY (use only METALGLAZE for a motorcycle) this gets sanded with 180 grit, up to about 320 grit (I use 220)
PRIMER gets sanded with 180 all the way up to 600 grit: use 320 or 400 wet or dry, your choice.
for something big and fairly flat, you can use a powered D/A sander, but for most motorcycles, they have too many corners, edges, ducts, etc,... for even a small 5" D/A to get into,...they make special velcro backed 3" D/A pads and discs, but they are pricey ($75 for a box of 40)
so do the sanding by hand, and get a soft foam rubber sanding block and use that whenever possible, but you'll have to fold tiny sheets for some places, and even "roll up a cigar" to sand inside some vents, and fastener recesses. (think to yourself while sanding I glad I dont own a boat, or school bus :laughing)
once the pieces are sanded ALL OVER, and everything is nice and dull (NO SHINY SPOTS!) you can start any needed repairs, I'm not going to get into a detailed step by step for the 1257 different ways to repair motorcycle plastics and sheetmetal, but basically:
deep scratches get scraped with a razor blade to clean up any fraying, then scuffed really well (even in the grooves, fold the paper and use the edge), then you spread the body filler (bondo) and keep it thin as you can.
cracks in fiberglass get fiberglass cloth and EPOXY resins (they are more flexible, and stick better), cracks in ABS can be glued (use WELD-ON 404), but it's better to have them plastic welded, as the repair once welded is permanent, the glue however, sometimes fails
other plastics, like polyproplene, polyethylene, and the newer floppy olefins (TPO) MUST be welded to fix cracks, as no glue will stick to them, and hold.
dents in the tank get pulled with a stud welder (most body shops, or bike paint shops can do this), then filled with bondo (I like Z-grip), shallow dings get ground back to bare metal (go a couple of inches larger than the ding area), then filled.
you can force cure most body work products by heat CYCLES, heat it with a HAIR DRYER (do NOT use a HEAT GUN on ANY plastic part, it will warp and become deformed) then cool it off with the blow gun, repeat about 3 or 4 times, you'll see it's hard enough to sand after the heat cycles
once the filler is ground to shape using coarse sandpaper and a HARD SANDING BLOCK, blow it off really well, and you should see some pinholes, pock marks, small chips, etc,....use the glazing putty (metalglaze) and just skim coat it on so it fills the tiny pinholes yada yada, then sand flat.
once all the repaired areas have been filled and shaped, then glazed and sanded, you are ready to shoot primer
I use modified table saw roller stands used for lumber, or body shop bumper stands, or saw horses and a plank or 2X4 to hold the parts while shooting, and double sided tape to hold the parts to the stands. Sometimes I'll use a small can, or box on a table to hold side covers, or bikini farings. Some people hang the parts from coathanger wire suspended from the ceiling. While this works ok for heavy gas tanks, and frames, light fairings get blown all over the place when spraying so you have to weight them and attatch them to the floor too, and I just find it easier to improvise a stand or modify an existing stand
Also parts seem to come out glassier if they are painted laying flat (horizontal) as gravity HELPS you, instead of pulling it and possibly making a run or drip, so I lay them flat whenever possible
I mask off the table, stands, cans, or whatever the parts are on with masking paper and tape (don't use newspaper, it'll bleed through or transfer images and print) so the dust from them doesn't get on the parts while shooting, and you should wear a full painters suit (not the breathable ones) to keep the dust from YOU off of the paintjob (the most common source of dust nibs in the final paint)
The painting steps are just practice, practice, practice and I would VERY MUCH RECOMMEND that you get a scrap fairing, or piece of sheetmetal, or a tool box, or something to test each product before you shoot it on yer sprotbile, as the test panel will teach you more than I could type in fifteen years, simply by making mistakes ON SOMETHING WORTHLESS, you learn how NOT to make them when you paint the bike.
:thumbup
Welcome to sanding,..err painting
have fun:
PAINTING A SPROTBILE IN 743 EASY STEPS
for paint I like the polyurethane base coat/ clearcoat system, it's the easiest to apply, and works very well for motorcycles.
inexpensive paints like OMNI or NASON work well, and are relatively easy to apply.
better quality paints like PPG (dbc or dbu) or Dupont (chromabase) or even DIAMONT, or GLASURIT, will cost considerably more, and will be even easier to apply, cover better, last longer etc,..
there is no reason why you shouldn't use OMNI or NASON for your initial attempts, it's good paint, and works well for beginners, stays flexible, and is easy to work with
you need: (for an average sprotbile)
1 QT Polyurethane Primer+ the hardener
1QT Polyurethane Basecoat (needs no hardener)
1 GAL Polyurethane REDUCER (it's like thinner) make SURE you get the proper temp range reducer (ask the paint counter guys)
1 QT Polyurethane CLEARCOAT+ the hardener.
they SHOULD give you some free paint sticks and strainers when you buy your paint, you'll also need some mixing cups, and a couple of "TACK RAGS" (you have to buy those)
ALSO, you will need the P SHEETS (product info sheets) for each of the products you are using, the p sheet has ALL the information for mixing, spraying, drying times, compatable substrates etc, so ASK for those, and the paint supplier SHOULD have a P sheet for every paint product he sells, as mandated by law.
If not you can look up most P sheet info online by doing a google search for PPG P SHEETS or NASON P SHEETS, or whatever paint line you are using.
If you are using HVLP guns this should be enough paint to EASILY paint the whole bike, AND the frame, and have plenty left over for some practice panels that you SHOULD do, before shooting the bike.
BASICS: paint will NOT STICK to wax, or unsanded paint, or dirty plastics, or oil, or WD-40, and polyurethanes will melt most spraycan paints in a heartbeat, so any rattlecan paint gets sanded OFF, after the following step:
first thing is CLEAN THE PARTS BEFORE DOING ANYTHING, use HOT WATER, and a degreaser type detergent (dawn, etc,...)
if you just start sanding, you are grinding the wax and grime into the surface and might cause fisheye problems later on.
remove any decals, stickers, or graphics that aren't painted over.
once thats done, you'll need to scuff the parts all over: I like to use dry sandpaper, but you can use wetsanding paper and water if you like, some people find it easier.
whatever type you use follow these grit instructions:
Initial Sanding for the pre-scuffing you can use 320-400 everywhere, this is a fast scuffing action, you are trying to dull the surface so the products used it the following steps will stick.
BODY FILLER gets shaped with 40 grit up to about 150 grit (I like 80)
GLAZING PUTTY (use only METALGLAZE for a motorcycle) this gets sanded with 180 grit, up to about 320 grit (I use 220)
PRIMER gets sanded with 180 all the way up to 600 grit: use 320 or 400 wet or dry, your choice.
for something big and fairly flat, you can use a powered D/A sander, but for most motorcycles, they have too many corners, edges, ducts, etc,... for even a small 5" D/A to get into,...they make special velcro backed 3" D/A pads and discs, but they are pricey ($75 for a box of 40)
so do the sanding by hand, and get a soft foam rubber sanding block and use that whenever possible, but you'll have to fold tiny sheets for some places, and even "roll up a cigar" to sand inside some vents, and fastener recesses. (think to yourself while sanding I glad I dont own a boat, or school bus :laughing)
once the pieces are sanded ALL OVER, and everything is nice and dull (NO SHINY SPOTS!) you can start any needed repairs, I'm not going to get into a detailed step by step for the 1257 different ways to repair motorcycle plastics and sheetmetal, but basically:
deep scratches get scraped with a razor blade to clean up any fraying, then scuffed really well (even in the grooves, fold the paper and use the edge), then you spread the body filler (bondo) and keep it thin as you can.
cracks in fiberglass get fiberglass cloth and EPOXY resins (they are more flexible, and stick better), cracks in ABS can be glued (use WELD-ON 404), but it's better to have them plastic welded, as the repair once welded is permanent, the glue however, sometimes fails
other plastics, like polyproplene, polyethylene, and the newer floppy olefins (TPO) MUST be welded to fix cracks, as no glue will stick to them, and hold.
dents in the tank get pulled with a stud welder (most body shops, or bike paint shops can do this), then filled with bondo (I like Z-grip), shallow dings get ground back to bare metal (go a couple of inches larger than the ding area), then filled.
you can force cure most body work products by heat CYCLES, heat it with a HAIR DRYER (do NOT use a HEAT GUN on ANY plastic part, it will warp and become deformed) then cool it off with the blow gun, repeat about 3 or 4 times, you'll see it's hard enough to sand after the heat cycles
once the filler is ground to shape using coarse sandpaper and a HARD SANDING BLOCK, blow it off really well, and you should see some pinholes, pock marks, small chips, etc,....use the glazing putty (metalglaze) and just skim coat it on so it fills the tiny pinholes yada yada, then sand flat.
once all the repaired areas have been filled and shaped, then glazed and sanded, you are ready to shoot primer
I use modified table saw roller stands used for lumber, or body shop bumper stands, or saw horses and a plank or 2X4 to hold the parts while shooting, and double sided tape to hold the parts to the stands. Sometimes I'll use a small can, or box on a table to hold side covers, or bikini farings. Some people hang the parts from coathanger wire suspended from the ceiling. While this works ok for heavy gas tanks, and frames, light fairings get blown all over the place when spraying so you have to weight them and attatch them to the floor too, and I just find it easier to improvise a stand or modify an existing stand
Also parts seem to come out glassier if they are painted laying flat (horizontal) as gravity HELPS you, instead of pulling it and possibly making a run or drip, so I lay them flat whenever possible
I mask off the table, stands, cans, or whatever the parts are on with masking paper and tape (don't use newspaper, it'll bleed through or transfer images and print) so the dust from them doesn't get on the parts while shooting, and you should wear a full painters suit (not the breathable ones) to keep the dust from YOU off of the paintjob (the most common source of dust nibs in the final paint)
The painting steps are just practice, practice, practice and I would VERY MUCH RECOMMEND that you get a scrap fairing, or piece of sheetmetal, or a tool box, or something to test each product before you shoot it on yer sprotbile, as the test panel will teach you more than I could type in fifteen years, simply by making mistakes ON SOMETHING WORTHLESS, you learn how NOT to make them when you paint the bike.
:thumbup
Welcome to sanding,..err painting
Last edited:
) I also use "whirlwind" filters on the regulator at the gun, just to make SURE I'm not blowing water and paint at the bike.