Help setting sag

stangmx13

not Stan
I really don't feel like going through the whole "how to tune suspension thing". First SAG is just BS. It's a starting point for the real adjustments if you are of average weight (Japanese test rider). Then when you are on the track you'll still have to play with all those things until you get it right, solving issues such as side wall tire compliance (chatter) and that kind of stuff. The static measurement has limited use. I'll do a couple of laps at first knowing I'll need to start working the issues as soon as I pull in. So reference SAG is just a start. It's a way to get to a common starting point for the average guy. It tells you nothing about how the suspension will perform under load conditions. /END RANT

P.S. If it's a factory bike, just twist everything back to the standard settings and start testing.

im not sure how this is relevant to what i said. u gave a recommendation for measuring sag and i clarified the terms so that the OP wouldnt get confused. imagine how "bad" itd be if he tried to run 35mm of Rider Sag because he read that number online somewhere and followed your statements.

sag is a measurement under a load. not sure why u said the last part.

we could talk about why ull never find a GP or WSBK team measuring sag. but thats more than a bit off topic.
 

russ69

Backside Slider
I think that today most guys don't have a clue about suspension because bikes are generally well sorted out and come with decent compliance for most usages. Back in my day the suspension sucked balls and the aftermarket stuff wasn't much better. Changing springs and pre-load spacers was second nature and damper changes required a drill press and total disassembly. It's all a lot easier now but guys are not sure what adjustment does what, things we knew by heart. Once I ride a bike I can tell exactly how many clicks I want and start making changes. Back in the day if we changed something, you might have to weld up a hole if you went too far. New is better.
 

russ69

Backside Slider
...sag is a measurement under a load. not sure why u said the last part...

SAG was first seen (in my experience) in owners manuals for off road racing bikes (somewhere in the early eighties?). You would measure the bike without the rider and measure the change with the rider on it. For motocross riders of similar weight and size that method gave a good starting point for most users. That is the method I was referring to.

(under load=full cornering speed with the proper tire, that's the point where your adjustment needs to be right not the static load)

No worries, there is more than one way to skin a cat, and no matter how you make your static measurements they still have to be refined on the track/street)
 

stangmx13

not Stan
SAG was first seen (in my experience) in owners manuals for off road racing bikes (somewhere in the early eighties?). You would measure the bike without the rider and measure the change with the rider on it. For motocross riders of similar weight and size that method gave a good starting point for most users. That is the method I was referring to.

there are less limitations when measuring total sag vs riders sag, esp with linkage ratios on rear suspension. total sag is actually a valid reference point for all riders, not just ones of similar weight and size. its still not a great reference point, but oh wells. ppl that know nothing about their suspension need to start somewhere.

(under load=full cornering speed with the proper tire, that's the point where your adjustment needs to be right not the static load)

:wtf thats a very limited way of looking at the "problem" of suspension.

suspension position needs be to "right" under ALL loads, including the static ones of rider or total sag. hell, changing the sag affects the dynamic position of the suspension under all loads. so that change can be felt under all riding conditions, including the really important ones like hard braking and corner exit. no one that knows what they are doing tunes suspension for only "full corner speed".
 

jpoppa

Well-known member
To me I would love to learn it, but with limited free time I would rather pay Jim at Catalyst 60$ to do it. Last bike he worked on was seamless for my riding, he did his magic and the bike worked well everywhere for me, not racing or doing track days so no real worries for me.
 
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