Ducati HyperScrambler build

viva_brasil

Well-known member
This thread is about taking my 999 / 1198S bike and evolving it into my ideal street bike.

My street riding has come down a lot since my track riding has gone up, and I definitely do not want to ride anything in a 'sport' position on the street. Which basically made my 999 / 1198S build a garage ornament.

Part of the inspiration also came from riding a Ducati Scrambler. It's a great bike, I love the position and the style. I wanted to get some of that Scrambler style and feel with the torque and aggression of testastretta generation motors. Also want to be able to ride 2-up and be able to throw slicks on and do some fast laps.

So far I've mounted Scrambler tires and started taking the bike apart so I can add longer throttle cables, build the front end mounting solution, do some reinforcements / updates on the airbox, and paint parts. Aiming to finish it in the next 2-3 weeks.

Parts / specs:
- LSL dirt bars I had lying around
- Pirelli MT60RS tires
- Dirt bar / top triple clamp mounting adapters - I think I found these on E-Bay
- BARK BUSTERS
- Custom 3D printed top triple clamp spacers with 15 degree slope to fit the dirt bar adapters on the sloped OEM triple
- Longer main front brake line from a Multistrada
- Longer throttle cables from a Diavel (seems like this generation Multi, Diavel, and 848/1098/1198 superbike cables all share the same throttle body ends - Multi cables appear to be a bit too long, Diavel should work well)
- Hypermotard front headlight and fairing
- Custom fork and upper triple mount for headlight - adjustable headlight angle and height
- Trimmed / shortened ram air intakes - slash cut
- Side mounted radiator overflow tank
- Side mounted plastic tube on the other side - because symmetry (the tube thing that people put on their adv bikes to carry stuff in)
- Some sort of skid plate - may make my own

All of this on the same 999 frame and 1198S engine / single sided swingarm platform I previously built with custom exhaust, airbox, 1198S traction control, and microtec ECU.

Tires mounted - this was really the first step, had to make sure they would fit or figure out a new wheel / tire solution:
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Coolant overflow / reservoir here - a bit overkill on the size and it should ideally be higher than the rad - but it should still work and will match the storage tube on the other side.
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These are the 3D printed blocks that match the slope on the OEM top triple clamp and space them sufficiently so the shoulder bolt works - allows the universal dirt bar adapters to work properly on the superbike triple clamp. It's not pretty, with the bars mounted I may do a v2 that more closely follows the contour of the mounts.
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Bars mounted and ram air intakes slash cut
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Bark buster test fit, fork clamps for headlight lower mount slipped on, tank and airbox pulled to replace the throttle cables
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budman

General Menace
Staff member
Cool.

I am in. This looks like my kind of project....that I could never do.
 

viva_brasil

Well-known member
Throttle cables update: the cable housing is a good length but the cable itself is too long (the housing end to throttle body length on the Multi / Diavel must be much longer than on the superbikes). So I cut the cable and started looking for a new 5mm barrel brass end - but couldn't find any. I then decided to try to drill out the cable from the barrels I had and worked pretty well. Now I'm waiting on some flux and solid core solder to solder the barrels back onto the shortened cable.

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Also started the lower headlight bracket, ordered some grommets and these fit nicely with the Hypermotard headlight mount. Once it's all done I'll paint it black. With no access to the shop (with shear and brake), I had to use my plasma cutter and a vice and hammer - came out nicely given the tools.

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viva_brasil

Well-known member
The spacers are glass-filled Nylon, did a good amount of research and it was the best option (used 3D Hubs to find the supplier and review the materials). Aluminum was too expensive
 

SVsick50

Well-known member
Brilliant - love the direction!

I love this. I did the same with my SV650 - I bought it already pretty fixed up, but I wanted to make it ever "more upright" with high scrambler bars, found a cross bar I had from like 12 years ago. I had the stock round headlight but opted for a streefighter headlight in reverence for my old Gen1 SV.

One thing I've always loved were the round dirt inspired mirrors. Found them on Amazon for like $25, and they're machined - much better than the plastic ones.

And yes, waaaaayy fun to ride in the street.

I wish I would've went with scrambler tires (or aggressive sport touring tires), considering I do actually take this thing off road, and these soft hyper sport tires are overkill for the type of riding I do.

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jumph4x

Do more, bitch less.
First of all, this thread is dope. All your threads are dope.

Throttle cables update: the cable housing is a good length but the cable itself is too long (the housing end to throttle body length on the Multi / Diavel must be much longer than on the superbikes). So I cut the cable and started looking for a new 5mm barrel brass end - but couldn't find any. I then decided to try to drill out the cable from the barrels I had and worked pretty well. Now I'm waiting on some flux and solid core solder to solder the barrels back onto the shortened cable.

I am about to be in a similar boat, but with a drift build (V2) instead. I know these fuckers exist, I just have not been able to hunt down the supplier.

If you look at FIA remote T-pull cable master battery cut off switches, they actually give you a hefty-long pull cable and a set-screw barrel. Of course, in your case the tolerances and clearances might not allow you to use this, also I'm not sure about the pull force rating on these. But for the sake of posterity: all of the following feature a set-screw cable barrel.

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/us/aut...switch-and-pull-cable-kit-apss-fia6cable-akn/

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/us/lifeline-t-handle-pull-cable-244301/

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/us/automotive-plumbing-solutions-pull-cable-242543/

Keep on keeping on.

EDIT: Checked out your YouTube, look who else is into getting sideways! :party

EDIT2: I just got a modest CNC last year, been enjoying giving myself heart attacks and making dumb shit (I have some foundational background in general purpose 3-axis CNC). As for the 3D printed blocks, is that something akin to SendCutSend or possibly something through Fusion partnership network? I'd enjoy having access to something like this. If so, what's the pricing like?
 
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viva_brasil

Well-known member
Yoooooo. yea I saw the set screw ones - those look the nicest. some internet 'experts' claim they don't hold the required torque but there are moto throttle cable kits out there with set screw type barrels.

I was looking at the original 1198S cable and the barrel end was crushed / pressed in instead of soldered like the Multistrada cable.

The barrel can't be too wide to fit in the throttle housing, which is why I didn't try the set screw types. The exact on-centeredness of the cable through the barrel doesn't matter as much, so drilling it out slightly off-center should work out...

ha yes! sideways! I need to check out the v2 drift build.

3D hubs is great, I'm not familiar with those but it's essentially just a marketplace but it quotes out for you based on the CAD you upload and matches with their network. This material was $27 per part, and a $45 setup surcharge so total was $100 bucks. Much cheaper than CNC'ed aluminum blocks (in the Bay Area) if I'm just making a pair.
 

Demoni

Well-known member
Love the build!

Yoooooo. yea I saw the set screw ones - those look the nicest. some internet 'experts' claim they don't hold the required torque but there are moto throttle cable kits out there with set screw type barrels.

Never had a problem with them, have used them for years on tons of 2 strokes, still running one on my Duc.

The barrel can't be too wide to fit in the throttle housing

Search for Brass Knarp on google image and there are tons of options. The ones I use have a internal set screw so they do not interfere with the throttle housing.
 

viva_brasil

Well-known member
Solder worked out well, I feel a bit more comfortable with the soldered bond than a mechanical one.

Procedure: Clean cable and barrel, put cable through barrel and spread some of the cable ends out on the end of the barrel, dunk the cable and barrel in the stainless steel flux, heat up wire (I think the target temp is around 180), solder once the flux is bubbling and it should pull the solder in. I fed solder in until I saw some coming out the other end of the barrel - and later trimmed off the excess.

I used the 'heater' nozzle on the mini torch so it took a bit longer to heat up the throttle cable but reduced the risk of over-heating it with the open flame. Solder has to be solid core - no flux core.

I need to fab up a lower radiator mount bracket that pushes the bottom out about 1/4" to make sure the fan clears the throttle cable elbow.

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Bike's current state - this is truly a 'back corner of the garage' project
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viva_brasil

Well-known member
Planning the fender cut to leave just the fork leg protectors - the upper hypermotard front has the duck beak fender
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Painted the cut black so the white plastic doesn't stand out, here's the front end mocked up
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Ended up flipping the front mount to lower the headlight a bit, required some trimming of the Hyper headlight mount, but gets the fairing into a more aggressive position and puts the top of it in a perfect place for the gauge cluster. Threw the tank back on to mock it all up
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Now about the damn throttle cables... Mounted them up and realized I somehow measured the cables wrong and now they're too short. FML. I also realized I should have just used the 1198S lower cable body and throttle body mount and Multi upper cable body so I can keep the tighter radius bend at the throttle body and avoid having to space the radiator out more. So I'm going to do it all over again... Ordered another used Multi cable.

Other little things - I need to modify the rear sets - these are super aggressive, considering at least going back to stock - ideally even slightly more forward to 'mid' controls. Need to finish tuning the bike. And finish mounting the coolant overflow and storage tube.
 
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