DL650 forks+valves$$??

[norcalkid]

Hey guys, Whats a fair price to have fork seals replaced and valves adjusted on 2012 DL 650 from an independent mechanic? Anyone have this done recently? I don't wan't to mess with doing it myself without a garage. Just a PITA in my apartment building parking lot.

 

[dravnx]

500-800 for the valves. 500 to check, 800 if they need adjusting.
fork seals are probably a 2-3 hour job. Have them put in the correct springs and valve emulators while they're in there. It'll transform your front end.

 

[afm199]

500-800 for the valves. 500 to check, 800 if they need adjusting.
fork seals are probably a 2-3 hour job. Have them put in the correct springs and valve emulators while they're in there. It'll transform your front end.

That's a pretty high end valve check. It only takes a couple hours on the 650 to check clearance.

 

[norcalkid]

500-800 for the valves. 500 to check, 800 if they need adjusting.
fork seals are probably a 2-3 hour job. Have them put in the correct springs and valve emulators while they're in there. It'll transform your front end.

You mean for my weight? Just better springs? I have no idea what you mean by correct springs(and eliminators)??

 

[dravnx]

Ernie, It's a 4 hour job on the DL650. Lots of plastic to remove and other fiddly stuff. The rear cam tensioner is tricky. I've done it 4X.
You need the correct springs for your weight unless your <150#. Emulators convert the turn of the century damping-rod fork system into a valved system. It will cost a couple of hundred dollars in parts on top of the fork seal replacement as the fork will already be disassembled.

 

[dmfdmf]

If you can DIY then you could try Moto Guild in SJ or SF to rent a service bay for $20/hr. That will probably be cheaper than a mechanic plus you'll know the work was done right.

 

[Junkie]

You mean for my weight? Just better springs? I have no idea what you mean by correct springs(and eliminators)??

springs for your weight, cartridge emulators help the suspension work a lot better

 

[norcalkid]

If you can DIY then you could try Moto Guild in SJ or SF to rent a service bay for $20/hr. That will probably be cheaper than a mechanic plus you'll know the work was done right.

I live 150 miles from there.

I don't really want to mess with it or not have my bike. Would prefer to just drop it off before I leave the country and pick it up 3 weeks later. Then I never really don't have the bike. They can just kinda do the job when it's convenient for them. (2 independent shops are cool with this arrangement, waiting for price).

 

[afm199]

Ernie, It's a 4 hour job on the DL650. Lots of plastic to remove and other fiddly stuff. The rear cam tensioner is tricky. I've done it 4X.
You need the correct springs for your weight unless your <150#. Emulators convert the turn of the century damping-rod fork system into a valved system. It will cost a couple of hundred dollars in parts on top of the fork seal replacement as the fork will already be disassembled.

Don't need to remove the rear CCT to check. I know the rear is tricky. My suggestion to anyone taking a bike in is to drop it off naked.

 

[norcalkid]

The more I think about changing around the springs and such the more it seems like a can O worms. Think I'd rather just throw a fork brace on there and use the money for a center stand or rear box.

 

[kuksul08]

I recently did a ton of work to my wee. The center stand is a game changer. Makes lubing the chain and taking the wheel off so much easier. Just make sure the one you get has adequate ground clearance - some of them scrape earlier than others.

I also did the valves and fork upgrade (gold valves, springs). You won't notice the valves but the fork upgrade really changed it. But if you change the fork you will want to upgrade the shock.

If you just need for seals any shop can do that for pretty cheap.

 

[MLCOakland]

One shop I went to recently in Oakland/Berkeley was charging $120 per hour, I believe. Maybe it was $100. Somewhere in that range.

(Which is how I ended up taking apart the forks on my old airhead in my driveway.)

Greg

 

[hayseed]

How many miles on the wee? Do you have top end power all the way to redline?

I had my valves adjusted at around 32,000 miles, and they were really tight, leading me to believe that even if the first owner had them checked at 15K, nothing was adjusted. I had been losing compression at about 7500 RPMs (wee goes to 10.5K) and just thought that the Vstrom was naturally underpowered.

After the adjustment, the last 5,000 miles have felt like a brand new bike with power all the way to redline.

So, I'd say if you're not losing noticeable compression ,and you're wanting to wait for that major service, then go for the new springs matched for your weight (racetech, etc.) when you get the seals done. Also, you will certainly appreciate a center stand.

You could even hold out on changing the rear shock, as the new springs will make a world of difference for stability and cornering.

 

[norcalkid]

How many miles on the wee? Do you have top end power all the way to redline?

I had my valves adjusted at around 32,000 miles, and they were really tight, leading me to believe that even if the first owner had them checked at 15K, nothing was adjusted. I had been losing compression at about 7500 RPMs (wee goes to 10.5K) and just thought that the Vstrom was naturally underpowered.

After the adjustment, the last 5,000 miles have felt like a brand new bike with power all the way to redline.

So, I'd say if you're not losing noticeable compression ,and you're wanting to wait for that major service, then go for the new springs matched for your weight (racetech, etc.) when you get the seals done. Also, you will certainly appreciate a center stand.

You could even hold out on changing the rear shock, as the new springs will make a world of difference for stability and cornering.

Got 19 or 20k on it.

 

[hayseed]

I bought mine with 22k on it and waited 10k to have the valves adjusted, which I regret in light of how the bike feels approaching 40k. Absolutely worth the $$$ if you feel compression loss.

Mine is an '07 and, under my care, spends almost all nights outside in the bay. Yours may well make it towards 30k in a way mine did not.

 

[Kestrel]

The more I think about changing around the springs and such the more it seems like a can O worms. Think I'd rather just throw a fork brace on there and use the money for a center stand or rear box.

It's really not a can of anything... Fork brace is a waste of money - the flex of the vstrom fork isn't a problem. There is no better change you can make to your bike than having the correct spring rate.

What do you weigh?

 

[kuksul08]

It's really not a can of anything... Fork brace is a waste of money - the flex of the vstrom fork isn't a problem. There is no better change you can make to your bike than having the correct spring rate.

What do you weigh?

The fork brace made a big difference to me. It's the first mod I did. But I'd probably rank springs and gold valves hgiher than fork brace if I had to choose just one.

 

[Kawikiwi]

I’m pretty sure my shop would do forks and valves on a wee for ~$1 per cc considering it’s a twin and the forks are easy. Can’t give a final quote right now because I’m sick with the flu. PM me for any info if you like.

 

[norcalkid]

It's really not a can of anything... Fork brace is a waste of money - the flex of the vstrom fork isn't a problem. There is no better change you can make to your bike than having the correct spring rate.

What do you weigh?

220 + gear

I'm not sure the bike will ever handle great when packed. Just too heavy exiting turns.
IMG20180718105149 by Norcalkid, on Flickr

My other ride, wish they sold them in the States.
IMG20180810150511 by Norcalkid, on Flickr

 

[norcalkid]

Again, having no clew... If I were to replace the springs what do you guys recommend for a 220lb rider?