Watch
this how-to video on how to set up the Raspberry Pi and install UGS.
Also, you'll need
Easel. This is where you make your designs and it'll convert a picture into G-code. You save your G-code file and open it in UGS. The "print" in UGS.
Hey, that's my video! Like, that's literally me in the video and my old garage shop in SF! :laughing
Okay, so a bit of my knowledge dump on what I've learned about CNC in the past few years. There's a ton of different ways to generate your CAM and GCode. Easel is one of them, it's the most user friendly, but its also the most limited. Pretty much the only thing I use it for is V-Carving, which means that you're using a bit that's tapered so you can generate designs with tight corners.
Another option for CAM is Carbide Create. You don't need to run it through a web interface, it can also generate V-carving toolpaths, and in general it's a little more powerful and versatile.
Most of the time I'm generating GCode in Fusion 360. They recently reshuffled the hobbyist licensing in Fusion and hobbled the CAM portion of it. The worst part about the new licensing is that you can still generate toolpaths, but it will no longer generate rapid movements - which means that when your bit is traveling above your material from one operation to another, it will be moving at your cutting feetrate - which means that your overall machining time per part will be considerably higher.
I'm still sending my GCode through UGS on a a rasPi - it's still a system that works for me. I'm considering moving it over to a cheap fanless PC so that I can run my laser from the same computer - more on that later.
As for materials, you *CAN* machine aluminum on cheap machines, it's really a question of how patient you're willing to be. There's a ton of deflection in these cheaper machines which means that you need to make shallower cuts and lower feed rates. The lower feed rates means that you're putting more heat on your tool and shortening your tool life. But if you want to make a few one-off parts out of .125" or even .25", it is possible. You need direct air to clear the chips and some lube definitely helps. You're not going to be making a top triple anytime soon, but custom mounting plates? Heck yeah!
But in general, you're better off with wood, carbon fiber, G10, acrylic, or HDPE. MDF machines really beautifully and I just made some parts out of HDPE last week.
For deep diving on machining on hobbyist machines, Check out Winston Makes. - he works for Carbide (who makes the Shapeoko machines) but he's got a ridiculous amount of knowledge about toolpaths, machining strategy, feeds & speeds, plenty more.
I'll have more to say about laser cutters in another post.
