• ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (15 days and 15 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
  • ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (30 days and 30 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.

2008 Suzuki V-Strom 650 ABS - Lots of upgrades, lots of miles

P

PrincessFalafal

Well-known member
TL;DR- 84,xxx miles, tons of upgrades, religiously maintained, Oakland, SOLD.

I'm realistic and will entertain offers, lemme know if you're interested.

Will consider partial trades for a KTM 690 Enduro or newer Triumph Thruxton in either British Racing Green or Matte Black. If for some weird reason you actually wanted an old V-strom instead of those...

Clean and clear Illinois title. PM me.



============================================================
The short version

Runs and rides perfectly. Mostly highway and adventure riding, then a few years of daily commuting. Been to the Arctic Circle and back, across the country multiple times. Well-used, but taken care of. Oil and other fluids changed religiously, always Shell Rotella T6 oil, etc.

Professionally painted with Line-X truck bed liner.

Upgrades:
Elka 3-way rear shock, Racetech Emulators in the forks, Brembo 19RCS Master Cylinder, stainless steel lines, Tokico 4-piston calipers, Sargent seat, Givi crash bars, some kind of thick aluminum bash plate, Happy Trails SU pannier rack, Happy Trails luggage rack, heated grips, giant windscreen, K&N air filter plus a ton more smaller things.

Chain & Sprockets replaces 3k miles ago, suspension fully rebuilt by Superplush 1k miles ago. Pilot Road 4/5 tires with ~50% front and rear.

Comes with a half-used set of TCK 80s, plus the stock rear shock, plus an extra spring for the Elka shock, plus a few stock bits.

Happy to show the bike, message or post with any questions.
============================================================



============================================================
The long version that you don't actually care about but makes me feel better about selling it:

I bought this bike in 2012 with 16k miles on it, and since then I have ridden it into the Arctic Circle, across the country three times, and for the last few years it was my daily commuter and sole means of transportation. It has every upgrade you can want for a bike you're doing serious miles on; the farkles alone probably cost me more than the initial buy. I built this bike to ride it, and ride it I did.

Make no mistake, this is an adventure bike and I've adventured it hard. I've lost count of how many times it's fallen over or how many bushes and shrubs I punched it through. But I've also been religious about maintenance and have taken care of it; I actually just spent a bunch of money on the bike (full suspension rebuild, chain and sprockets) as I fully intended to keep riding it until it dies, but then I made the mistake of test riding a Ducati Multistrada and well . . . I don't need the V-Strom anymore.

Oil has always been Shell Rotella T6. I lost my old maintenance records when my phone died a couple years ago, but this is the most recent list:

71,650 - Oil Change, TCK 80s
73,872 - Chain clean, Pilot Road 4 front and Pilot Road 5 rear tire
76,496 - Oil and filter, new pannier rack
78,112 - Brake system flush, calipers rebuilt
80,150 - Oil and filter
81,421 - New chain and sprockets
83,326 - Full suspension rebuild by SuperPlush Suspension
83,701 - Oil and Filter, air filter clean

The rear subframe has been replaced once (Somewhere around 40,000 miles after a bit of an incident in Newfoundland) and the pannier rack has been replaced twice. It has never been dropped on the current rack, and it is arrow-straight.

The full mod list holy crap
In order of most to least important

  • Elka 3-way adjustable rear shock
    • Sprung for 180lb rider + luggage
    • Ohlins 800# spring and spacer
    • Comes with a 600# Elka spring (suitable for 160lb rider with no luggage)
    • Rebuilt less than 1,000 miles ago by Superplus Suspension
  • Upgraded fork internals
    • Racetech Cartridge emulators
    • .95 (I think?) springs (180lb rider)
    • Rebuilt less than 1,000 miles ago by Superplush Suspension
    • Fork Brace
  • Fully Upgraded brake system
    • Brembo 19RCS Master Cylinder
    • Folding shorty lever
    • Stainless Steel lines
    • Brembo remote reservoir mount
    • Tokico 4-pot calipers off of a GSX-R 750
    • SV racing parts caliper adapter brackets
  • Professionally painted with Line-X truck bed liner
    • Not the useless junk that comes in a spray can; I took the fairings and upper to a professional place and they did a great job on them.
  • Happy Trails SU Pannier rack
  • Happy Trails luggage rack
  • Sargent seat
  • Givi crash bars
  • SW-Motech (I think?) Center-stand
    • This got smacked by a rock or something and is very slightly crooked
  • Massively thick aluminum bash plate (can't remember brand)
  • Radiator guard
  • Oil cooler guard
  • Acerbis (I think?) aluminum hand guards
  • Madstands adjustable windshield bracket
  • Some kind of giant windshield
    • Also have the stock windshield, as well as a shorty that I never used
  • Aprilia mirrors
    • So much better than the ugly stock ones, and better visibility too
  • Heated Grips (switched to ignition)
  • 12v power outlet in dash
  • Eastern Beaver electrical break-out box and relay, mounted in the under-seat storage
    • This has been amazing, allowed me to add all kinds of electrical upgrades without making a mess of the wiring
  • Radar Detector shelf (never ended up mounting anything on it)
  • Denali 120db horn (REALLY FUCKING LOUD)
  • 4" PVC Tool Tube
  • Stomp Grip on the tank
  • Corrected speedometer gauge face
    • Stock speedo face over-states speed by 10%, this aftermarket gauge face fixes that
  • Scotts Steering damper mount
    • No damper, sorry
  • Rearstand spools
  • Flush mount front turn signals
  • Pat Walsh highway bars
    • Sort of. The left footrest is missing, but I've just rested my foot on the bar itself and been fine
  • ADV Sticker on the front fender
  • Headlights were masked a bit by the PO to make the bike slightly less ugly (It didn't help, this is still the Quasimodo of motorcycles. But hey, you can't see it when you're on it)
Also comes with:
  • Extra set of TCK-80 tires
    • 60%, 2,200 miles on them.
  • Stock windscreen
  • Shorty windscreen (brand new, never used)
  • Stock mirrors
  • Stock rear shock, sprung for 200lb rider
    • Modified by he who shall not be named to be rebuildable
  • 600# Spring for Elka rear shock
    • Suitable for 160lb rider, or bike with no luggage
  • Full-length lever and bar cap for Brembo M/C
  • Stock M/C
  • Stock calipers
  • Mounting screws for attaching panniers to the pannier rack
  • Stock exhaust heat shield
  • Stock luggage rack (Not pictured, still in a storage unit)
  • Stock handlebar caps (not pictured)

OKAY ENOUGH WORDS LETS LOOK AT SOME PICTURES




Oops, forgot to take off the retaining straps for my old magnetic tank bag that I don't have anymore. I do have the stock handlebar caps if you wanted to remove the Scotts mount.




12v Marine outlet with a waterproof cap, and the switch for the heated grips at the lower-right. Grips are switched to the ignition, outlet is not.






The face that only a mother could love.


The 120db horn. Ran off a relay with a fused direct power connection to the battery.


4-pot calipers. Stock on the 01-03 GSX-Rs, V-Strom 1k and SV1k. Adapter Brackets from SV Racing Parts




Genuine aftermarket Brembo, none of this manufacturer-made junk that the slap the Brembo name on.






Pilot Road 4


Pilot Road 5 non-trail version. Much better life than the Trail version.


The tool tube cap. Very watertight, easy to screw on by hand.
 
Last edited:
t4r4life

t4r4life

God of Hell Fire
For 1900 dollars id just keep this race wee, the 10k maintenance service on your ducaca is gonna cost more than your wee lol chances are the wee will probly outlive the ducaca. WDB!
 
P

PrincessFalafal

Well-known member
t4r4life said:
For 1900 dollars id just keep this race wee, the 10k maintenance service on your ducaca is gonna cost more than your wee lol chances are the wee will probly outlive the ducaca. WDB!
Click to expand...

I pre-paid for maintenance on the Ducati at a discounted rate, but yeah . . . it ain't cheap. Dealer prices for the 18k service is around $1,800. :loco Sure pushes all the right smile buttons, though.

Right now the V-strom is just sitting in the garage taking up room and costing me in insurance/registration.
 
kneedraggeroldy

kneedraggeroldy

Well-known member
Mmmmm. Have to fix R6 from a low side at thunder hill and sell before momma lets me buy another toy.....the FJR is a bit to handle in the dirt and this might be better. GLWS and will continue to lurk ..... maybe convince her :)
 
P

PrincessFalafal

Well-known member
I'm not sure I'd consider this thing to be "easy" to handle in the dirt, it's still a gosh-darned big machine and doesn't have the suspension travel of an actual dirt bike. But it does okay off-pavement with the knobbies.
 
needles

needles

Well-known member
Hey-

How do you like the Sargent seat? I'm considering one but haven't found someone with one to get feedback on.

Dan
 
alemeno214

alemeno214

Bumblewee Wrangler
Does the bike have plates? I may be in need of a ride back to WA, and this would be perfect if it's plated in some state.
 
P

PrincessFalafal

Well-known member
needles said:
Hey-

How do you like the Sargent seat? I'm considering one but haven't found someone with one to get feedback on.

Dan
Click to expand...

I'm neutral on it. The bike had the seat on it when I bought it, and on my prior V-Strom I kept the stock seat and was mostly fine with it.

The Sargent is very bucket-shaped and MUCH more comfortable for the passenger. A little harder to slide off the edge and lean off of if you're trying to get your knee down or something, but for comfort it's pretty good.

I'm not sure it's worth the ~$500 they are new, but it was a nice perk to already have on the bike when I bought it.
 
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