• ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (15 days and 15 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
  • ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (30 days and 30 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.

2006 Honda CBR600RR 3k miles - Unmolested

superhypered

superhypered

(╯°□°)╯ ლ(ಠ_ಠ ლ)
As some of you may know if you saw my threads, I am in the process of moving up to Washington state within the next few months. I was dead set on not selling any of my cars or bikes, but I am taking a bit of a reality check and posting this for sale in case someone has better use for this bike than I do, because I absolutely love my CB1000R a little bit more than the CBR. Again, I really don't want to sell it, but if my offer price is accepted, then I'd be happy.

To the point, this bike is a 2006 Honda CBR600RR with only 3,344 miles currently as of today. This bike is completely bone stock and unmodified as well, with the exception of an LED bulb in the center of headlights from superbrightleds.com.

I purchased this bike in June 2017 with only 1,500 miles as my main commuting bike from Campbell to Sunnyvale. Two months later I bought my CB1000R and have put over 8k miles on that instead.

I am the 3rd owner, the first two were cousins, first owner being the person who dropped the bike at low speed on the right, as seen in the pics. Because it is black, it is not very noticeable, and it shouldn't be a huge factor in negotiating, as someone may use this as a fresh track bike and replace the plastics anyways.

Because of the low side, the right side mirror snapped off and something broke inside of the turn signal. I replaced the mirror with a used one that already had a scrape on it, but the turn signal I replaced with OEM. Previous owner also replaced the fuel pump as there was a long period of time where the bike sat.

I can't verify how the bike was stored previously as there are some water stains on the plastic, but it could possibly be buffed out, I just never bothered. However bike has always been garaged and not ridden in the rain since I owned it.

I also put on brand new tires a few months ago, using Bridgestone Battlax BT-015 which is the stock tire used on the CB1000R. Even has the nubbies on the back tire still.

Forks were rebuilt a year ago by FFR Fabrication as the seals leaked.

The only thing this bike needs is an oil change and a rider. I was planning on doing the oil change, but I can hold off in case someone wants to convert to a different oil.

Please send me a pm if you have any questions as I will see the notification on my phone, since I am not always on the forum.

Asking $4,500 to start. No road tests without payment in hand, agreed price, M1 license, and proper safety gear (helmet, jacket, gloves, boots). If road test is required, we can go out for a ride together.

If bike doesn't sell within the next two and a half months, I will just keep it. :ride

Bike is registered until June 2021
VIN: JH2PC37196M302577

Does not include my tail of the dragon license plate frame

Motorcycle cover included if desired. (Fits CBR250, should fit the 600 fine)

TL;DR: In bold



5dZ1aXg.jpg

MBoEc7R.jpg

hMPqHMm.jpg

1rbr82v.jpg

Y4uY2IL.jpg

LNjICPG.jpg

J4ZSBfz.jpg
 
Last edited:
superhypered

superhypered

(╯°□°)╯ ლ(ಠ_ಠ ლ)
Hey either I get what I want for it or I keep it, win/win for myself. Motor is in great shape and is a blast to mess around on.

It is obviously not in perfect cosmetic condition, but it can be rectified. I may detail it in a few days and see if it removes the water staining on the front sections.

I also take Kbb and Nada guide pricing with a grain of salt as I use other bikes in the current market as reference points instead. This bike is low miles, all stock, and 1 drop.
 
superhypered

superhypered

(╯°□°)╯ ლ(ಠ_ಠ ლ)
lol, when I say unmolested, it only refers to no modifications and all stock.

Riding it is another story, and I assume the original owner was a first time rider due to the mileage and the drop, and his cousin was a first time rider on this as well, he just wasn't comfortable on it, and I needed a bike so I purchased it.
 
scootergmc

scootergmc

old and slow
Perhaps the title should be edited to "all stock" because "unmolested" is definitely a misnomer.

Is the dash lens cracked over the fuel level?
 
kmaggy

kmaggy

Well-known member
I guess choice of words can be subjective, but I can see how it's a bit misleading especially in the title of your post. If we all want to be PC around here then here it is from the dictionary:

What does unmolested mean?
not interfered
: not interfered with untouched …

"It is obviously not in perfect cosmetic condition, but it can be rectified. I may detail it in a few days and see if it removes the water staining on the front sections."

Based on the photos and experience on low siding my own bike then fixing it to back to "OEM".... detailing it might remove the water marks on the front. But to fix those scratches you'd need to remove the front, upper and lowers perhaps a wet sand of 180'ish. Depending how deep those scratches are, might need to use a filler, then do a mid sand of 200, then wet sand to 220. I would then primer, feather sand it. Then paint, finally clear coat. it'd be difficult to really match the paint on the other side. It really depends on the buyer: 1) just leave it as it is and just put a Sponge Bob sticker on it lol . 2) new fairings i.e. track fairing or aftermarket 3) fix it like how I described above.

Besides the cosmetics.. awesome bike with low miles. GLWS!
 
Last edited:
N

NoTraffic

Well-known member
Sorry but "unmolested" in the car and bike world mean handled with care. Dropping a motorcycle or driving a car into a light pole does not deem it unmolested because it's still stock. May want to update your title to be a bit more honest about its condition.
 
musiclucho

musiclucho

Well-known member
The title is misleading but at least he was fully honest with pictures and story. Some time ago I bought a tailbag who's seller on CG claimed it to be "never used". I could clearly see the bag had been used for at least a couple of times.
 
superhypered

superhypered

(╯°□°)╯ ლ(ಠ_ಠ ლ)
Good afternoon everyone,

Just want to point out that I am not trying to be misleading with my title. In my opinion and experience modifying cars and bikes, unmolested to me is literally no modifications and all stock, condition be damned.

Not to derail, but I just sold a 1985 Honda Accord that was all original, original interior, original carbed motor, stock wheels. I would classify that as unmolested, not modified in any way besides being stock. Seats had age damage as did the paint, but hey all original.

Hope this clears it up for some of you. It is not worth it for me to go to the extent of repairing the fairing, as I have looked into a straight replacement in the past, but then the problem I faced is that it would be too nice in that one area, while the rest of the plastics are in their current condition.

So three solutions if you are anal about the damaged plastics.

1. Complete replacement either OEM or aftermarket race fairings = $$$

2. Big bandaid sticker = $

3. Ride the bike and don't pay it attention because it is a blast = FREE!

For further clarification, I do not want to sell this bike, however when I move to Washington state, registering 5 vehicles at once will cost me at least $1000 for first time registration. I'm also going to have to drive up there several times to get everything there, plus my rent will go up a little and I have to rent a storage unit. I am unwilling to sell my 3 cars as I use them all, and I just paid off my CB1000R, so unfortunately this CBR600RR is the weakest link. And if there is no sell within the next two months, I will just take it with me to Washington, no harm no foul. If anyone has any real questions or interest, just feel free to send me a message. I will work on the price a little bit if needed.
 
superhypered

superhypered

(╯°□°)╯ ლ(ಠ_ಠ ლ)
NoTraffic said:
Sorry but "unmolested" in the car and bike world mean handled with care. Dropping a motorcycle or driving a car into a light pole does not deem it unmolested because it's still stock. May want to update your title to be a bit more honest about its condition.
Click to expand...

Our car and bike worlds must be different because what you are describing is mint. I've been completely honest in my original post, so it will not be updated, sorry.
 
superhypered

superhypered

(╯°□°)╯ ლ(ಠ_ಠ ლ)
scootergmc said:
Perhaps the title should be edited to "all stock" because "unmolested" is definitely a misnomer.

Is the dash lens cracked over the fuel level?
Click to expand...

No, dash lens is free of cracks, that is just the outline of the carport, here is an older photo in better lighting. (mileage matched the year)


20545604_10211109262502304_7740769057807315789_o.jpg
 
superhypered

superhypered

(╯°□°)╯ ლ(ಠ_ಠ ლ)
Just for you guys, I felt my pics in the sun did not do my bike any justice at all (besides the obvious). So I went for a little ride and met up with my buddy for a quick detail to improve the oxidation issues. Could not reach every surface without taking off the plastics, but just wanted to give you all an idea of how this thing looks. And the reality is that even if the bike was never dropped at all, this thing would still have the oxidation situation, so yeah. We also did not buff the damaged plastic, fyi.


KPC426I.jpg

ojaNqQ1.jpg

PqKrcI1.jpg

2u8U18e.jpg

yQbr188.jpg
 
superhypered

superhypered

(╯°□°)╯ ლ(ಠ_ಠ ლ)
Price bump.

Going through my current debt, I need to be more realistic with my current situation. Shot myself in the foot right before shelter in place began as I had a really good job lined up and a fresh credit card and didn't care too much. Hadn't planned on worst case scenarios so if anyone has any interest at all, please reach out, thanks
 
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