2006 GSXR1000 No start after mechanical stator failure

MX500

MX500

Pooter
I have a 2006 GSXR1000, 25,000 miles, power commander, salvage special...

I bought it with a salvage title, stator was loose and it touched the rotor while running, I pulled the clutch in to listen to the noise and then it stalled and has not restarted since. The stator and rotor have been replaced, I charged the battery, even tried TWO known good spare batteries. The bike behaves like the battery is low, it stalls out once hitting TDC, the original starter died attempting to start it like this, and I now have a low mileage replacement installed... any tips? Turning over by hand it seems even on compression, no loose spots or strange noises... ran great until it didn't.
 
MX500

MX500

Pooter
Ive read that a dead power commander can cause these symptoms? The power commander seems to work visibly when I turn the bike on. Any tips to test it?
 
MX500

MX500

Pooter
Removed power commander, status is the same. First compression stroke to tdc stalls the starter. I'll check compression next I guess.
 
C

CCRGI

Member
Have you tried just pulling the plugs to see it it turns over by hand without any compression ?.

Given what you say, I'd want to see that there wasn't some obscene drag coming from some internals. Binding up before TDC is not right.
 
El Feo

El Feo

Rich Kid on LSD
TDC of which cylinder? You mean like vapor lock?

Compression, why? You said you could turn the crank by hand.

Start with charging sticky thread. You're chasing the wrong animal.
 
MX500

MX500

Pooter
It's stalling at tdc of each cyliner evenly. It will turn over just to tdc, then the starter lacks motivation to continue.

I don't believe it's a charging issue, I have tried with multiple fully charged batteries (yes I have a charger.) And even have tried with my bronco battery jumped in parallel while running with a 3G alternator making 100 amps at idle (which is when the og starter died).

ccrgi, I will see how it spins over with no plugs tomorrow.

I also have a bit of resistance through the starter power wires, right about at or slightly out of spec, approximately 1-2 ohm iirc. The starter relay seems fine.

Thanks again for the suggestions. :)
 
mototireguy

mototireguy

Moto Tire Veteran
MX500 said:
And even have tried with my bronco battery jumped in parallel while running with a 3G alternator making 100 amps at idle (which is when the og starter died).
Click to expand...

It's recommended you jump start motorcycles from car batteries with the car key OFF.

Maybe no coincidence problems got worse at that moment.
 
MX500

MX500

Pooter
mototireguy said:
It's recommended you jump start motorcycles from car batteries with the car key OFF.

Maybe no coincidence problems got worse at that moment.
Click to expand...

The available amperage from the dual truck batteries was already excessive. I did it while running for the full 14.7 volts to see if it would fully turn over. It did not. The burned starter would have occured either way when my dumbass held the button down for a full second to see if it would turn past tdc with the extra power available... 14.7 volts didn't hurt anything, loading the motor with the rotor locked pulled more amperage through the brushes than they are designed to withstand, and maintaining that condition until they overheated was a poor decision on my part.

Yes, it is no coincidence. I knew how I killed the starter... :thumbdown (to myself)
 
MX500

MX500

Pooter
Ohms law, I did it while running for the extra power available when you have slightly higher voltage. You could say it was a calculated risk. Haha
 
ST Guy

ST Guy

Well-known member
Never have the vehicle providing the jump running! Ever. Sometimes it won't cause a problem, sometimes it can fry things. Given the size of your average car or truck battery, there's zero reason to have the engine running. Not worth the risk.

Completely disconnect the bike battery and connect the car or truck battery to the bike. If the starter still won't turn the engine over, then first check for poor, loose, or dirty connections throughout the entire starting circuit. Pull all the plugs and see if the engine will turn over then. If it turns over easily enough with the plugs out but won't when the plugs are in, then again, it's either a poor connection on the power side of the starter or perhaps a bad starter.
 
MX500

MX500

Pooter
It act the same with no plugs in it. All connections have been ohmed out, even bypassed the start relay entirely. Super cool how it acts like theres a rubber ball in each cylinder, slowing before tdc and stopping. Then it will push past and repeat the BS when the next piston comes up.
 
MX500

MX500

Pooter
The "rubber ball" analogy is the best I have. Or imagine your uncle with the bad knees trying to kick start a CR500 without the decompression scallops... damn bike.
 
Maddevill

Maddevill

KNGKAW
So it stops cranking WITHOUT the plugs in? Either there is some serious drag from somewhere or your new starter is junk. Look at all your fuses while you're in there too. You could have blown the main when you jumped it from the truck. I'd take a good look at the replacement stator. Maybe remove that and see if the motor rotates without drag.
 
B

bobl

Well-known member
I've heard of cases where the stator cover was rubbing the rotor after replacement. Can you remove the stator cover and try the starter?
 
C

CCRGI

Member
MX500 said:
It act the same with no plugs in it. All connections have been ohmed out, even bypassed the start relay entirely. Super cool how it acts like theres a rubber ball in each cylinder, slowing before tdc and stopping. Then it will push past and repeat the BS when the next piston comes up.
Click to expand...

If you already think the stator/rotor relationship is OK then I'd drop the oil pan and take a look up at the crank and the con-rods. Stop using the starter and get a wrench on the nut and turn it over by hand and note/feel where the resistance occurs. a bent rod or lose bolt on the rod end fits your description.

I'm not saying the electrical guys are wrong, but they already pointed you to those diagnostics, so I assume you're back to mechanical.

Seriously though, I'd have already done all this is the first hour or two, so if you're still fiddling with this after many days, then you probably should just take it to a shop.
 
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