yamaha fz09 electrical problem

BigShotBob

Active member
Hi All

I was left stranded on the side of the road the other day with my 2014 Yamaha FZ09, unfortunately :'(

Story goes;
Was parked on the side of the road, taking some pictures at the vineyard with the bike off. When I hopped back on to start the bike again, I hit the starter for a little bit too short of time to where the ignition system didn't take over...and then...completely dead bike. No electricity anywhere, no lights, no starter, no screen, nothin.

Since then, I've checked all fuses, including the 50 amp main fuse, as well as the starter relay fuses, which are all good. Checked the battery, which is showing 12 volts. The terminals had some corrosion, which I cleaned up. Still no luck.

I do have a multimeter, but I'm not super electrically inclined, at least for the moment.

I was wondering if anybody had an inkling as to what is going on, and where I should start testing circuits. I'm not sure if there's a more common fault than normal on these bikes, or if I need to just start checking things.

I did tip the bike over twice at low speeds (it was on the ground for about a minute each about a month ago. There was mild damage, and I've ridden the bike for about 10 hours since then with no issues.

Thanks for any insight!

Robert
 

motomania2007

TC/MSF/CMSP/ Instructor
I have a '14 FZ09 and have done a lot of things to it and I am very familiar with it.

1) check the main fuse on the starter relay
2) check the ignition switch connections by disconnecting the electrical connector to it and measuring all the connections.
If neither of those are the answer start with the charging system tests here:
https://bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=394141

I suspect the failed main fuse or a failed battery
 

BigShotBob

Active member
Thank you for the reply. All fuses are good, including on the starter relay.

By ignition switch connectors, you mean the engine run switch on the handlebars, yes? I'll check it out...
 

motomania2007

TC/MSF/CMSP/ Instructor
Thank you for the reply. All fuses are good, including on the starter relay.

By ignition switch connectors, you mean the engine run switch on the handlebars, yes? I'll check it out...

The engine cutoff/run/start switch is good to check but if the dash is blank, that has nothing to do with the engine cutoff/run/start switch as that only turns off the ecu but does not turn off the ignition and power to everything.

When you turn on the ignition, does anything happen?
 

Maddevill

KNGKAW
A battery can show 12v and still be crap. You need a load test on it. My ZX14 did a similar thing up at Crater Lake. Stopped for a picture and....dead.
Turned out my battery shorted out. Showed 12v static. Less than 10 while cranking.

Mad
 

usedtobefast

Well-known member
How did you verify the fuses were good? I pull them, look at them, and then using the meter do a continuity check.

Also, are you 100% you know where all the fuses are? Your issue sounds exactly like a main fuse blown. Or the wiring block to the key came unplugged.

A weak battery should be able to light something up.

Good luck!
 

ST Guy

Well-known member
You guys are all missing the obvious thing to check. A battery only producing 12.0 volts is completely discharged. A fully charged and new battery should be 12.8 volts. A used battery, fully charged, should be in the range of 12.6 to 12.7 volts. As a battery heads for the dump, it will often only take 12.5 or 12.4 and may have trouble starting a bike. Note that 12.4 volts is only about half charged. 12.2 a 12.3 is really bad and 12.0 and lower is fully discharged.

So, OP, was the battery really at 12.0 volts? Or did you not report the decimals because you weren't aware of their significance?
 

ST Guy

Well-known member
If you can get the bike started, take a voltage reading at the battery at 3-4000 rpm. Include the decimal places.
 

ST Guy

Well-known member
FYI, a battery at just 12.0 volts will often make the entire bike appear dead because so many loads are attached to the battery.
 

motomania2007

TC/MSF/CMSP/ Instructor
All these points about checking the battery voltage and fuses and such are why I pointed to the charging systems check out sticky thread in the garage. Because that thread covers all those points.
 

seadog

Veteran
Bike is 2014 and if battery came with the bike how old is it? Hope it's an easy battery fix.

If you are familiar with reading schematics then start at your battery and keep going further out until your voltage drops off. Schematics will make your life easier. It's like a road map for your wires.
 

Tom G

"The Deer Hunter"
I guess its included in the electrical thread, but check for the wire connections on the battery poles and to the metal frame as well. And again, anything < 12.7V means new battery, immediately, to not get stranded again.
 

Maddevill

KNGKAW
When my battery crapped out, there is no way to bump start it. The computer relies on stable voltage to work. Start with the simple things first. My vote is a bad battery

Mad
 

ST Guy

Well-known member
OP: you can jump your bike with a car battery. Just don't have the car engine running. That's the first thing I'd try.
 

Tom G

"The Deer Hunter"
OP: you can jump your bike with a car battery. Just don't have the car engine running. That's the first thing I'd try.

Why would you not have the car engine running? If you have it running while jumping you make sure you don't drain your car battery as well (although takes a while with a bike) and have the car stranded.
 

haybaler

Mechanical
"I did tip the bike over twice at low speeds (it was on the ground for about a minute each about a month ago. There was mild damage..."

When I rode Yamahas, I kept a spare jumper wire in case of crash damage to ignition switch. The switch is sandwiched in tight between several pieces so that even a "light" crash could sustain enough damage to lose the main connection.

Also recommend easy electrical trace voltage. Check at battery; check going into ignition switch; check leaving ignition switch with switch on; check one side of fuse; check other side of fuse; etc. Try one of these, either meter or bulb type:

61-Pia-Apre-OL-AC-SL1100.jpg
 

CDONA

Home of Vortex tuning
Do you have a starter sequencer?
My Hyper had this, bump the starter button, just to make contact and the sequencer would crank the bike until it starts, or 10 -20 seconds.
The way it failed, seems like it fell into a computer dead spot, if it has a sequencer
 

ST Guy

Well-known member
Why would you not have the car engine running? If you have it running while jumping you make sure you don't drain your car battery as well (although takes a while with a bike) and have the car stranded.

Never have the jumping vehicle running as that can often destroy your VRR. And the donor battery is so much larger than the bikes battery it would take one heck of a lot of cranking to bring the voltage down.

Those in the know always do it with the donor vehicle off.
 
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