• ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (15 days and 15 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
  • ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (30 days and 30 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.

Wtt/wits: Legit Long Range rifle Custom built by pros

benbangui

benbangui

Well-known member
Wtt/wts: Legit Long Range rifle Custom built by pros

ALL GEAR TRADED AND GONE. THANKS!!! :D


Hey guys :) this is a set up that I got over $5k invested in. If that sounds like a lot to you this isn't the rifle for you :)

5-10k is pretty normal in the world of long range precision.

It's a rem700 short action 308 that has been "blueprinted and trued". Schneider barrel that has been chopped to 16.1 and "suppressor ready" if your out of state or can legally have in CA. McMillan a5 stock with "gap camo" pattern. Bushnell HDMR 3.5-21x50. Atlas bipod. Bottom metal with magpul mags. More to list but if you actually interested I'll give you the info directly.

I have taken this rifle out to 1000 yards and if you do your part it will too. I personally have got it to shoot .25moa 3 shot groups and .375 moa 5 shot groups. Meaning this rifle can shoot .25moa all day long. The fact that I can't get a 5 shot 25moa group is just operator error and the rifle is better then I am. I have photo proof of all this someplace. Have prob 100 loaded hand loads, lapua brass with varget powder and 800-1000 168smk bullets, all the loading equipment to load all your own ammo. The more I write about it I don't know why I'm getting rid of it lol.


But basically I don't shoot long range comps as much and I ride EVERY day. Currently have a 04 naked sv650 and ride my friends duci 1199 on occasion. From riding his bike really makes me want more power in general. Really love my SV but really wanna get into a track/street bike like a gsxr 750/1k, zx10, r6/r1, whatever. Really not crazy picky other then I want to try the other type of power band. Not a twin. But wouldn't be opposed to getting another twin that is a 1k like my friends 1199. (Tho that's not really in my price range)

But like I said, over 5k invested into this package. And it's a turn key, ready to go, with Ammo and everything you could possibly need for it. Can talk suppressor stuff for out of state builders or whatever too.

Looking for a bike in the $5k range but open to suggestions or even cash offers. Text me and lets talk :)
 
Last edited:
2nsane

2nsane

Retired Coastie
it would help if you added some pics so those trying to understand exactly what you have.
 
benbangui

benbangui

Well-known member
So had some questions on the type of unit it is. It is the same unit as in this link. They run for $32-3500 new for just the optic.

http://shop.opticsplanet.com/night-optics-pvs-14-gen-3-mil-spec-adaptable-night-vision-mono-goggle.html?_iv_code=8N-NVM-PVS14-NO-NM-P14-3AGM&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=plusbox-beta&gclid=CPPhmtL64NQCFU1lfgodLEwGsQ


So $3k for the unit, 3 surefire ($300ish), helmet($250-350), and peq2($450-850) is a sUper good deal for a lightly used set up :) the Pvs14 has 2 small specs in the corner I can send pics of. But if your interested you really wanna see the set up in person. Super sick
 
Last edited:
NorCalAthlete

NorCalAthlete

O_o
FWIW, to my knowledge it's perfectly legal to transfer a pistol upper by itself, it's buyer's discretion / caution to only purchase if they have an applicable pistol lower for it. Ie, if you don't have a legal pistol lower, then you can't buy the pistol upper, because of constructive possession, but if you do already have a legal pistol lower (or complete AR pistol), then you're good to go.

Transferring an entire pistol, on the other hand, requires the usual FFL stuff for a private party transfer.
 
Shaggy

Shaggy

Zoinks!!!!
NorCalAthlete said:
FWIW, to my knowledge it's perfectly legal to transfer a pistol upper by itself, it's buyer's discretion / caution to only purchase if they have an applicable pistol lower for it. Ie, if you don't have a legal pistol lower, then you can't buy the pistol upper, because of constructive possession, but if you do already have a legal pistol lower (or complete AR pistol), then you're good to go.

Transferring an entire pistol, on the other hand, requires the usual FFL stuff for a private party transfer.
Click to expand...

To clarify... possessing a short barreled rifle is unlawful. It's not a rifle until the upper is mated with the lower, therefore possessing the upper by itself is 100% lawful.

If you mate the upper to a lower registered as a pistol, you are also good to go.
 
NorCalAthlete

NorCalAthlete

O_o
Nick said:
To clarify... possessing a short barreled rifle is unlawful. It's not a rifle until the upper is mated with the lower, therefore possessing the upper by itself is 100% lawful.

If you mate the upper to a lower registered as a pistol, you are also good to go.
Click to expand...

Constructive possession applies in CA. If you do not have a legal pistol lower you *could* mount the upper on, whether or not the upper is mounted to anything, if the only lower you *could* mount it to is a rifle lower, you fall under constructive possession of an SBR. If you have at least one legal pistol lower, THEN you can have as many pistol uppers as you want.

In other words, to possess a pistol upper, you must possess >=1 pistol lower. It may be highly unlikely to get popped for it, but that's the law as I understand it.

Penal Code 17170
As used in Sections 16530 and 16640, Sections 17720 to 17730, inclusive, Section 17740, Article 1 (commencing with Section 27500) of Chapter 4 of Division 6 of Title 4, and Article 1 (commencing with Section 33210) of Chapter 8 of Division 10 of Title 4, "short-barreled rifle" means any of the following:
(a) A rifle having a barrel or barrels of less than 16 inches in length.
(b) A rifle with an overall length of less than 26 inches.
(c) Any weapon made from a rifle (whether by alteration, modification, or otherwise) if that weapon, as modified, has an overall length of less than 26 inches or a barrel or barrels of less than 16 inches in length.
(d) Any device that may be readily restored to fire a fixed cartridge which, when so restored, is a device defined in subdivisions (a) to (c), inclusive.
(e) Any part, or combination of parts, designed and intended to convert a device into a device defined in subdivisions (a) to (c), inclusive, or any combination of parts from which a device defined in subdivisions (a) to (c), inclusive, may be readily assembled if those parts are in the possession or under the control of the same person.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
benbangui

benbangui

Well-known member
come on guys this isn't calguns :) no need to bring that shinnanies over here lol.

Yes this all needs to be done threw FFL. Please do not contact me if you can't legally own firearms lol
 
EastBayDave

EastBayDave

- Kawasaki Fanatic -
heck, to hell w/the wall, just plonk some USMC sniper trainees on top of each hill facing the border w/bunch of these & plenty of food/water...

Vultures need to eat too...:laughing
 
benbangui

benbangui

Well-known member
EastBayDave said:
heck, to hell w/the wall, just plonk some USMC sniper trainees on top of each hill facing the border w/bunch of these & plenty of food/water...

Vultures need to eat too...:laughing
Click to expand...

Ok I'm totally lost now:rofl

This isn't a discussion forum guys! :)
 
NorCalAthlete

NorCalAthlete

O_o
benbangui said:
come on guys this isn't calguns :) no need to bring that shinnanies over here lol.

Yes this all needs to be done threw FFL. Please do not contact me if you can't legally own firearms lol
Click to expand...

Through* and only the lower receiver is considered a firearm by law. IF someone meets the above mentioned requirements, no FFL is needed for a simple sale of an upper receiver only.

Just trying to help out. And besides, it IS keeping your thread at the top of the grab bag...
 
benbangui

benbangui

Well-known member
Traded in other place But thanks guys!
Got a 2012 R6!!! Stoked! :D
IMG_3055.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top