whirring noise when bike is off

[kpke]

if anyone knows a mechanic near San Francisco who is good with electrical triage, then I’d take recommendations.

Maybe here? Worth a call I think.

https://bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=547857

 

[ST Guy]

Heck, if something is making a whirring sound, you should be able to figure out what it is easily enough. Once you know what it is, you can the see what it's connected to and go from there.

 

[cheez]

A friend of mine, tech guru at the Dallas Morning News, had a cat encounter once on his motorcycle, and wrote about it.

http://lifeisaroad.com/stories/2004/10/29/theBet.html

Ride Report: "I Get a New Traveling Companion"
Alternate Title: "Who Let the Cat Out of the Bag?"
Title if the wife (acquired later) named it: "Honey . . . You're an Idiot"
Title if best friend named it: "Well, OK. Two Cokes."

Oh, shit, sorry. Whirring noise, not purring noise. Never mind.

 

[Gravisman]

Did you do a lengthy battery disconnect to see if the problem persists?

Yeah I’ve been disconnecting the battery overnight. No help.

 

[Gravisman]

Heck, if something is making a whirring sound, you should be able to figure out what it is easily enough. Once you know what it is, you can the see what it's connected to and go from there.

I know for sure what the thing making the noise is - the idle air control motor. I’m not finding the “see what’s connected to it and go from there” part to be easy. The system seems quite complicated to me.

 

[ST Guy]

I know for sure what the thing making the noise is - the idle air control motor. I’m not finding the “see what’s connected to it and go from there” part to be easy. The system seems quite complicated to me.

An electrical schematic should tell you easily. If you don't have one, get one. It's critical to analyzing electrical problems. Likely there's a relay or switch that controls it and that could be the problem.

 

[Demoni]

An electrical schematic should tell you easily. If you don't have one, get one. It's critical to analyzing electrical problems. Likely there's a relay or switch that controls it and that could be the problem.

^ 100% this.

Dealing with electrical issues is all about coming up with ways to isolate variables to identify the cause of the problem. You are already approaching this is a logical way you just need more information about the system your dealing with.

Knowing the path the electricity flows (wire color, connector / pin locations) from the component is invaluable information. Service manuals are invaluable references, I have one for every bike I have owned.

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Based on the fact that this started with a blown fuse makes me suspect that a relay or some other switching component has failed. Alternately before the fuse blew enough heat was generated to melt the insulation of some wire/s.

I found this, it's not for your bike but I suspect that the tests for resistance and voltage will transfer over...?
Ninja service manual

I found a number of posts on Kawi jetski forums that say that if the IAC is unplugged or defective your idle speed will be sporadic and throttle response is affected.

This is the sort of work that eats up mechanic hours as it's a lot of trial and error.

 

[scootergmc]

Hopefully it doesn't come straight off the ECU.

 

[ST Guy]

Hopefully it doesn't come straight off the ECU.

Likely not. I'm sure that there's a relay in between. My guess is either it's a stuck relay, or the ECU isn't shutting off the signal to the relay.

 

[Gravisman]

Likely not. I'm sure that there's a relay in between. My guess is either it's a stuck relay, or the ECU isn't shutting off the signal to the relay.

When I look at the attached schematic I don't see anything but capacitors between the ECU (37) and the idle speed control unit (35). Moreover, 12v is also escaping the ECU in its CAN accessory cable (not in this schematic because I have an aftermarket ECU which adds that) and that did not happen before this problem started.

I've tested the diodes on the relay unit according to the manual, and strangely, the tests all have results opposite of what the manual says they should. Maybe that's the problem, but I'm skeptical. Every single test is opposite (that is, I get continuity with the probes reversed from what the manual says), and I feel like if all the relays were broken, the bike wouldn't run, and it *does* run, so it seems more likely to me that I'm misunderstanding the manual.

 

[ST Guy]

Put the original ECU back in temporarily and see if the problem goes away? Should be quick to do.

 

[Gravisman]

Put the original ECU back in temporarily and see if the problem goes away? Should be quick to do.

I bought the bike with the aftermarket ecu, so don’t have the original. I may end up needing to buy an original to test, because the aftermarket part is $750

 

[ST Guy]

Before You try a stock ECU, call the aftermarket maker, explain your problem, and see if they have a solution.

 

[Rob750]

C is not indicating capacitors, C means sub harness “C”.

Any chance the battery was connected backwards, even for a split second?

 

[DannoXYZ]

I was trying to do some electrical and pretending to know what I was doing when I accidentally shorted a 12v wire and blew my FZ-07's ignition fuse.

Ok back to basics.

- What is this 12v wire you shorted?
- what colour?
- what does it connect to on each end?

That would help with examining diagram to see what circuits are affected by that wire.

 

[Gravisman]

Ok back to basics.

- What is this 12v wire you shorted?
- what colour?
- what does it connect to on each end?

That would help with examining diagram to see what circuits are affected by that wire.

The 12v wire in question does not appear on the schematic - it was part of a CAN accessory cable specific to my aftermarket aRacer ECU it connects directly to the ECU

 

[Gravisman]

C is not indicating capacitors, C means sub harness “C”.

Any chance the battery was connected backwards, even for a split second?

The battery was definitely never connected backwards, but it’s possible the 12v wire on the CAN cable touched another wire. I’m not totally sure if touching another wire or the frame caused the incident.

 

[Demoni]

The 12v wire in question does not appear on the schematic - it was part of a CAN accessory cable specific to my aftermarket aRacer ECU it connects directly to the ECU

So generally CAN bus does not operate at 12v. CANH runs ~ 3.5V, CANL ~ 1.5V. I would bet the wire in the cable is a seperate power feed for something related to the aftermarket ECU.

What did you short the 12v wire to? Ground or another wire? You might want to check any relays. If one is outputting power with the key in the off position: trigger wire might be causing the circuit to stay open, the relay contacts might be sticking or the wire is receiving power from somewhere else in the harness.

Here is a good resource for diode testing Diode test

 

[Gravisman]

C is not indicating capacitors, C means sub harness “C”.

Thank you for this clarification! Any chance you could explain the letter indicators put on all the pins/wires? I confess I haven’t been able to fully decode them. They kinda seem like wire colors, but some don’t make sense - like what color would Gy/R be? It also doesn’t make sense to me why the pin diagram for the ECU connector has one pin labeled R/B but then when examining the lines to there are two labeled R/B - one coming from the EFI fuse, and another going to a fuel injector. How would I know which of these wires actually matches to the pin on the connector?

 

[Gravisman]

So generally CAN bus does not operate at 12v. CANH runs ~ 3.5V, CANL ~ 1.5V. I would bet the wire in the cable is a seperate power feed for something related to the aftermarket ECU.

What did you short the 12v wire to? Ground or another wire? You might want to check any relays. If one is outputting power with the key in the off position: trigger wire might be causing the circuit to stay open, the relay contacts might be sticking or the wire is receiving power from somewhere else in the harness.

Here is a good resource for diode testing Diode test

I understand that CAN does not run at 12v but there is a 12v line on the cable which accessories can use for power (including the lap timer I was wiring in).

I’m not sure exactly what the short was - it occurred in a moment of distraction and I may have touched the 12v wire to another wire or to the frame.

I have tested the relay box and gotten somewhat puzzling results. All the tests come back opposite what the specifications say they should - that is positive and negative leads are swapped for continuity. It’s possible there’s a problem there, but since the bike actually seems to function fine when turned on, I think it’s more likely that there’s some error in my testing - if the whole relay box were broken I doubt the bike would run. Relay boxes are cheap so I ordered a new one to test just in case there is a real issue there. I’m starting to think about doing continuity tests on my wiring harness, but not quite sure what tests I should do (see some of my confusion about pin labeling in my previous post).