TL1000R Clutch...again (but this time with pics/video)

tedesco886

Well-known member
So here is my ongoing problem. I purchased a 1998 TLR track bike. The clutch does not seem like it's throwing far enough. I say this because when I drop the bike into first gear from neutral, it clunks in hard and stalls. Also, if the bike is on it's stand and in gear, with the clutch lever pulled in, it is VERY difficult to spin the rear wheel.

So what i've done:

1. Bled and bled, and reverse bled the slave/master cylinders

2. Rebuilt the slave cylinder (and bled and bled and bled)

3. Disassembled the master cylinder and everything looked FINE (and bled and bled and bled)

4. Replaced the clutch plates (driven and drive) and put in new heavy duty springs (yes with the stock clutches and the proper ones)




The attached pics show the difference between the clutch lever all the way out and the clutch lever pulled all the way in. The video shows the same thing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sl42_c4vLwU
 

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tedesco886

Well-known member
yup, i have the right parts and i DID soak the clutch plates prior to install, this was all happening BEFORE the new clutch install, and still is after...
 

mototireguy

Moto Tire Veteran
What is the condition of the clutch basket? The photos don't clearly show it.

Does the clutch basket have any grooves in it from clutch plates wear?
 

tedesco886

Well-known member
No grooves...I have no pics of that, but I looked it over prior to intstallation of the new plates... Does the throw look sufficient under normal circumstances?
This may be off (due to my limited knowledge of hydraulics) but is it possible to put a heavier weight oil/fluid in the system? Would that give more throw? I have in there the reccomended brake fluid now...is it at all possible?
 

hayabusafiend

boxing twins
Changing the fluid won't change the throw.
1) Make sure the clutch push rods (parts 18 and 19) aren't deformed or bent.
2) Completely bleed the clutch hydraulics. A small amount of air will use lever some travel without moving the slave piston.
3) Verify the slave cylinder is completely seated against the engine and bolts properly tightened.

Just watched the video. That looks like plenty of throw for the plates to separate. You replaced the steel and friction plates?
What weight engine oil are you using?
 

tedesco886

Well-known member
update, just tried the clutch again(with the bike on) now that the gasket sealant is dry. The back wheel hardly spins and it didn't slam into gear(seems like that clutch problem was fixed), but my idle STILL drops and the bike wants to die when in gear with the clutch pulled in, i have to rev it to keep it alive. This is even with my idle sitting just a lil high in neutral. And it will only start with the aid of starting fluid sprayed in the intakes....grrrr
 

STIdevildog

JD&COKE
I'd check the the clutch push rods to make sure they are the correct length and not bent as was mentioned above. Not sure if suzuki made changes and the previous owner put in a different year. Also are the clutch components stock? People do weird stuff and use parts off different models. I would make sure everything is bike specific and air is bled completely.
 

Racer Al

ex-racer, that is.
Did you rebuild the clutch master cylinder yet? Seals can look fine, but leak badly.

Hydraulic parts are usually pretty cheap. It sounds to me like your master cylinder isn't generating enough pressure to get the clutch fully disengaged. A good test for that is to hold the clutch in and see if it drags more and more as the fluid leaks past the seal.
 

tedesco886

Well-known member
thanks for everybody's help, I just upped the idle a lil and it rode great (until i ran out of gas 1/2mile from my house with no cell on me *walk/push*:eek:P). see y'all on the track, FINALLY!!!
 

Diezel

كافر extraordinaire
thanks for everybody's help, I just upped the idle a lil and it rode great (until i ran out of gas 1/2mile from my house with no cell on me *walk/push*:eek:P). see y'all on the track, FINALLY!!!

I dont want to be offensive. But your asking for trouble with this.

You either have a Master or Slave that perhaps is internally leaking down. Or a push rod that is worn / too short.

I'd check these, and go from there. Otherwise by upping the idle, IF your clutch is truly dragging you will accomplish nothing more then glazing the plates and causing it to wear prematurely. With the torque the TL is capable of, it'll be slipping before you know it.
 

nine_inch_rear

Well-known member
Iam not familiar with the TL, but I do know that some of the Ducatis- if the basket drive nut comes loose, the basket will start to walk off the shaft, and youll never get the throw you need from the clutch push rod.
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
I dont want to be offensive. But your asking for trouble with this.

You either have a Master or Slave that perhaps is internally leaking down. Or a push rod that is worn / too short.

I'd check these, and go from there. Otherwise by upping the idle, IF your clutch is truly dragging you will accomplish nothing more then glazing the plates and causing it to wear prematurely. With the torque the TL is capable of, it'll be slipping before you know it.


Don't be offensive. New clutches are sometimes tight. You've got to give them mile or two to wear in. Those of you who have only ridden street have been spoiled with clutches that release all of the way, let the bike drop in gear, and allow you to find neutral. Dirt bikes, even new, require a rev before going from neutral to first, especially when cold.
 

Diezel

كافر extraordinaire
Don't be offensive. New clutches are sometimes tight. You've got to give them mile or two to wear in. Those of you who have only ridden street have been spoiled with clutches that release all of the way, let the bike drop in gear, and allow you to find neutral. Dirt bikes, even new, require a rev before going from neutral to first, especially when cold.

Well aware of this. Reading his earlier posts this was happening with old plates and new. Now the new ones I would say this could be normal depending on the plates and their compound. But I also know the TL and the busa both suffer from slave cylinder issues.
 
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