• ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (15 days and 15 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
  • ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (30 days and 30 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.

TCX X-Rap Riding Shoe

5150ninja

Well-known member
Sold. Sold. Sold. Sold.


These are sold.


I'm selling a pair of new TCX X-Rap riding shoes. They're waterproof, black, and size 43. These run large as I found out after getting them. I normally wear a size 43, but these are about a half to one full size too big. I tried to live with it on a ride instead of returning them, but in my heart I know I just don't like the way they fit too big.

The white soles have a distressed/antique look, so they are made to look a bit dirty or worn, even when brand new. I probably put some marks on the soles in the one ride I wore them, but they basically look the same as new. I have the box and all of the info attachments that came with these, including extra shoe laces.

For size reference, I wear a 43 in BMW boots and they fit well, if not a taste roomy. I wear a 43 in Sidi and they run a bit tight. A size 43 in Forma is too small for me. This is my first pair of TCX, and as stated above, these are a half to one full size big. If you wear a 44 in Sidi, these would probably fit normal on you.

I paid regular retail for these $179 about three months back. I see they are on closeout at Revzilla currently, however, there is no black available and I'm asking less than the closeout price. These shoes are a very nice model and have good protection qualities. I would actually rate them as good as light touring boots.

$85
 

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MustangWolf

perma-noob
I was looking at these online—while they were too big, what did you think of them? Build-wise, protection-wise, and were the soles stiff or re-inforced?

GLWS!
 

5150ninja

Well-known member
what's your normal shoe size?
I think I usually wear a 44 in yooro. or a 10.5 in US sizing.
The shoes I have on at the moment are Saucony running shoes, they are size 9.5 USA. That is what I would call my "normal" shoe size. A Nike would be like size 10 or 10.5, but Nike's run very small. So yeah, I would say my normal, most popular, common size for myself, is 9.5. The TCX shoe definitely runs large, without a doubt!
I was looking at these online—while they were too big, what did you think of them? Build-wise, protection-wise, and were the soles stiff or re-inforced?

GLWS!

I got another pair, is that a decent endorsement? :laughing

Seriously though, they are very good in my opinion. I have both styles, the tall X-Rap and the regular hi-top called the X-street. I will tell you straight up that, if I had to pick one, from a protection stand-point, it would be the X-Rap. The extra height, in my mind, makes it feel so much more robust and protective. They will likely be hot in the summer though? I haven't gotten that far yet. The waterproof lining probably isn't going to allow much breathing on a hot day. Probably alright while riding, but if you wore them to work in the summer, they probably be too hot? They do make a genuine GorTex version for like $50 more though.

Protection wise:

I call the X-Rap as good as a more basic traditional touring boot. The ones without any external hard plastics. The X-Rap has good ankle/maleolus protection, good leather, good heel cup, weak in the toe box, but has some protective plastic in there none-the-less. The soles are stiff, which is good.

The X-street (the other, lower height TCX riding shoe version) is a nice leather shoe; a glorified regular shoe really, but better than regular shoes. It has very little toe box plastic, has the maleolus protection and heel cup, but is not as robust as the X-Rap. It is lighter everywhere, in other words, which will be better for breathability, at the expense of protections. Once again, the soles are stiff on this model as well. The leather seems to be nice and sturdy/thick, which makes them seem to be bike worthy?

I haven't really abused either model, so I cannot really speak to the longevity of them. I can also say that they severely lack in the arch support. I added Dr. Scholl's to the one's I use to make them much more comfortable. Without Dr. Scholl's they are like a Van's shoe or Chuck Taylor, as far as comparison. These are shoes with similar poor arch support, in my opinion, that you may be familiar with? I pretty much put the Dr. Scholl's in all of my boots anyway, though.

If given the choice of one...I go X-Rap, even knowing it is going to be a hotter shoe in the summer.
 
Last edited:

MustangWolf

perma-noob
The shoes I have on at the moment are Saucony running shoes, they are size 9.5 USA. That is what I would call my "normal" shoe size. A Nike would be like size 10 or 10.5, but Nike's run very small. So yeah, I would say my normal, most popular, common size for myself, is 9.5. The TCX shoe definitely runs large, without a doubt!


I got another pair, is that a decent endorsement? :laughing

Seriously though, they are very good in my opinion. I have both styles, the tall X-Rap and the regular hi-top called the X-street. I will tell you straight up that, if I had to pick one, from a protection stand-point, it would be the X-Rap. The extra height, in my mind, makes it feel so much more robust and protective. They will likely be hot in the summer though? I haven't gotten that far yet. The waterproof lining probably isn't going to allow much breathing on a hot day. Probably alright while riding, but if you wore them to work in the summer, they probably be too hot? They do make a genuine GorTex version for like $50 more though.

Protection wise:

I call the X-Rap as good as a more basic traditional touring boot. The ones without any external hard plastics. The X-Rap has good ankle/maleolus protection, good leather, good heel cup, weak in the toe box, but has some protective plastic in there none-the-less. The soles are stiff, which is good.

The X-street (the other, lower height TCX riding shoe version) is a nice leather shoe; a glorified regular shoe really, but better than regular shoes. It has very little toe box plastic, has the maleolus protection and heel cup, but is not as robust as the X-Rap. It is lighter everywhere, in other words, which will be better for breathability, at the expense of protections. Once again, the soles are stiff on this model as well. The leather seems to be nice and sturdy/thick, which makes them seem to be bike worthy?

I haven't really abused either model, so I cannot really speak to the longevity of them. I can also say that they severely lack in the arch support. I added Dr. Scholl's to the one's I use to make them much more comfortable. Without Dr. Scholl's they are like a Van's shoe or Chuck Taylor, as far as comparison. These are shoes with similar poor arch support, in my opinion, that you may be familiar with? I pretty much put the Dr. Scholl's in all of my boots anyway, though.

If given the choice of one...I go X-Rap, even knowing it is going to be a hotter shoe in the summer.

Thanks for the great review! I'm looking for a replacement of my non-motorcycle boots that have ZERO protection when I'm commuting to work that I can still wear around the office (cause I'm a lazy SOB that doesn't want to change shoes).
 

5150ninja

Well-known member
A couple more pictures, and I lowered the price to $95.
 

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Foxwolfe

Well-known member
I checked my old Sidis but unfortunately I wear 46 in them so these would be too small for me, GLWS.
 
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