sticky transmission when motor is hot

bunz

Well-known member
I have a K7 1000 and ocassionally when my bike heats up during long rides or city traffic she wont go into neutral unless I turn the bike off. It will simply go right into 1st if an abnormal amount of pressure is place on the shifter or until I turn off the bike and then it slides into neutral really easy.

I have been riding for 10+ years and all my previous gixxers have never had any similar issues.

Thank you for reading this post. Any ideas?
 

afm199

Well-known member
clutch basket is notched probably. or steels warped a bit. That's usually what the problem is.
 

Busy Little Shop

Man behaving bikely...
Your gears can't shift smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged... here's
how to check your clutch for drag...

1 Place your bike on the center stand...

2 Start engine and establish a warm steady idle...

3 Squeeze in the clutch and don't release as you shift into first gear...

4 Now look at the rear wheel... is it' spinning??? if you step on the
rear brake does it drag down the engine rpms??? your clutch needs adj.

If you bike is equipped with an cable then adjust the clutch lever
knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and check again check for clutch
drag... if you bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system and check
for bubbles...

Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop when the engine is idling
and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...
 

oorahduc

troll dad
Your gears can't shift smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged... here's
how to check your clutch for drag...

1 Place your bike on the center stand...

2 Start engine and establish a warm steady idle...

3 Squeeze in the clutch and don't release as you shift into first gear...

4 Now look at the rear wheel... is it' spinning??? if you step on the
rear brake does it drag down the engine rpms??? your clutch needs adj.

If you bike is equipped with an cable then adjust the clutch lever
knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and check again check for clutch
drag... if you bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system and check
for bubbles...

Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop when the engine is idling
and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...

Thanks! This helped me out today. My bike had become increasingly difficult to get into neutral over the past few days. Unscrewed the clutch cable screw a bit and it became smooth as butter. score!
 

Junkie

gone for now
I've never had a bike that doesn't spin the wheel a little with the clutch pulled in. Hell, most do it a little in N.

However, if it slows down the engine when you touch the brake, something isn't right.
 

mototireguy

Moto Tire Veteran
I use this 1-2 nickel thickness test when adjusting clutch lever/cable slack.

adjustclutch5.jpg
 
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