putting larger rear sprocket on literbike

[fart]

my 05 gixxer 1000 has stock sprockets and chain. I really want to look into changing it up to more teeth in the rear maybe one or 2 less up front.
I don't care if it tops out at 150 or 160. i want more torque.
is a 520 conversion good idea as well.
i did a -1 up front and up 2 in the rear on my 02 gsxr 600 and added punch for sure.
but obviously a 1000cc superbike is a different story.
any advic or comments that are realistic are much appreciated.
thanks

 

[Corb]

If you must. One down on the front two up in the rear is most I would recomend and still keep that bike usable.
And 520 conversion is a silly idea for a bike that dosn't speend its time at the track.

 

[Hooli]

I've gone down one tooth on the front and that's plenty...equivalent to a 2.something on the rear sprocket. It's a cheap mod, you can use your existing chain (if it's still in good nick), and a nice split between more torque and buzziness at freeway speeds.

 

[BlackNinjaZX10]

you will need a speedo healer if you ever want to resell your bike.

 

[mototireguy]

I would suggest taking small incremental steps when making this change.

The most easy least expensive first step is to go -1 on the front sprocket. Ride the bike and feel the results first before going +2 on the rear sprocket.

Converting to a 520 chain on a 150hp literbike can be useful if you are racing but for street use it will result in much shorter chain/sprocket service life. Keep your stock 525 or 530 chain and steel sprockets for longer service life.

PS. These sprocket changes will cause your speedometer readings to display inaccurate results. The bigger the sprocket changes the greater the inaccuracy. This can be corrected with a Speedo-Healer. http://www.healtech-electronics.com/

 

[Sane_Man]

my 05 gixxer 1000 has stock sprockets and chain. I really want to look into changing it up to more teeth in the rear maybe one or 2 less up front.
I don't care if it tops out at 150 or 160. i want more torque.
is a 520 conversion good idea as well.
i did a -1 up front and up 2 in the rear on my 02 gsxr 600 and added punch for sure.
but obviously a 1000cc superbike is a different story.
any advic or comments that are realistic are much appreciated.
thanks

If you need more torque on that bike, it sounds like you might want to move up to a Busa.

 

[Lovedoc]

Yeah those liter bikes just don't have any acceleration. :rofl

BTW, are you sure it's torque you're after, maybe you just want more pull in the 3-5K rpm range. If so, a fuel map, maybe some intake and exhaust mods will work better.

 

[mabbott]

Maybe he just wants to wheelie easier... you know the liter bikes don't have enough torque to do wheelies!

 

[R6Elmo]

each bike is a bit different. Some are geared too long, ducatis are like this and always need more gearing.

I say do -1 in front because it's cheap. Then go up in the back if you still need it.

Don't do the 520, not required on street and it will also wear faster.

 

[Hooli]

Yeah those liter bikes just don't have any acceleration. :rofl

Nearly every modern sportbike is overgeared from the factory in order to pass noise and emissions ratings (less rpm = less noise and exhaust). I've gone -1 on the front on every 1000 I've owned, and my current newest bike ('08 CBR1K) will be getting the same treatment as well.

BTW, are you sure it's torque you're after, maybe you just want more pull in the 3-5K rpm range. If so, a fuel map, maybe some intake and exhaust mods will work better.

:wtf A couple of hundred dollars for a Power Commander, plus more money for a slip-on (at least) and dyno time for a custom map, or $25 for an aftermarket front sprocket? Hmmm, that's a tough one... :rofl

 

[kangaroo]

my 05 gixxer 1000 has stock sprockets and chain. I really want to look into changing it up to more teeth in the rear maybe one or 2 less up front.
I don't care if it tops out at 150 or 160. i want more torque.
is a 520 conversion good idea as well.
i did a -1 up front and up 2 in the rear on my 02 gsxr 600 and added punch for sure.
but obviously a 1000cc superbike is a different story.
any advic or comments that are realistic are much appreciated.
thanks

try opening the throttle more...

 

[Lovedoc]

Nearly every modern sportbike is overgeared from the factory in order to pass noise and emissions ratings (less rpm = less noise and exhaust). I've gone -1 on the front on every 1000 I've owned, and my current newest bike ('08 CBR1K) will be getting the same treatment as well.



:wtf A couple of hundred dollars for a Power Commander, plus more money for a slip-on (at least) and dyno time for a custom map, or $25 for an aftermarket front sprocket? Hmmm, that's a tough one... :rofl

Hooli, as you know they also have a torque flat spot to reduce emissions at cruising speeds, especially older ones, when the old EPA testing protocol was used. The principle benefit of remapping is MORE TORQUE in the low range. And you have posted on many Power Commander threads how much they improve throttle response.

 

[Hooli]

You have posted on many Power Commander threads how much they improve throttle response.

True, but that was long after I did the sprocket mod, which is makes more economic sense. :kicknuts

 

[Lovedoc]

True, but that was long after I did the sprocket mod, which is makes more economic sense. :kicknuts

Lowers the flat spots speed
Myself, I find a snatchy rough throttle response to bother me more during low speed handling than high speed. Nothing fine-tuning the right hand and the left foot couldn't fix. Sprockets are cheaper, unless he puts aluminum on with that 520 conversion. :laughing

 

[CockyRooster]

Buy a 1 tooth smaller front sprocket and most people are happy with that. If you want more then a 520 conversion kit -1/+2 is the most economical way to complete the drive train. The 520 chain is plenty strong for what your doing.

 

[Norbs]

Just went with +2 on my rear sprocket for my SV650 and I like the difference, just feels a bit peppier and I like the extra torque coming out of turns. I dunno about a liter bike though seems like overkill but I don't know.

 

[louemc]

Has to depend on how and where the liter bike rider rides.

Where I ride I have almost no other vehicles on the road to influence or effect what I'm doing. Some switchbacks are extremely tight and steep, and some corners have a tall rock wall, making them max short sight line, in their blind cornerness.

With all that, the stock gearing on the ZX-10 is perfect for me. There is no situation, going through towns, or out where no one is, that I have any need or desire, to have more or less than what stock gearing delivers.


If a city bound liter bike rider never sees the fat part of the power at the upper and top end, I can see the drop down to what they do use. It also depends on the particular bike. Just from what I read, a lot of race replica's are soft on the initial throttle response, because the manufactures fight tooth and nail for peak numbers, that sway buyers.

The first Generation ZX-10's didn't suffer from soft, and the fueling is the best, coming off the initial throttle I've ever found. So.....just all depends.

 

[Blankpage]

try opening the throttle more...

:laughing
Isn’t it amazing when people look for complicated solution to simple problems. He could also try keeping it in a lower gear.:cool

 

[Superbike-Coach]

1 down in the front, 1 up in the rear. you don't need to change the chain lenght and you have acceleration like hell. there is no cheaper way to power the bike up. there are enough rpm resources for the freeway, and it also fit's for almost all race track straights

 

[Junkie]

-1/+2 on my 929 was fun, but I decided it was a bit too buzzy on the freeway so I went back to a stock sized front sprocket. for the track i'll most likely toss the little one on again.

stock, it's geared for 164
-1/+2 it was geared for 147
0/+2 it's geared for 157

-1/+2 with a 190/55 rear it'll be geared for 152, so it's unlikely I'll even be getting into 6th at Buttonwillow - especially naked.