One off carbon case covers?

[lolibater]

Hi guys. I have a bike that has lost almost the entirety of its aftermarket. Most importantly, I need some case covers to protect the motor in case of a spill off road. Since none are made anymore, I started to look into DIY.

I came across this: http://teamghettoracing.com/fabrication/diy-carbon-fibre/

However, I know for a fact that's well over my head. Does anyone know any place local that can either DIY or one that specializes in this type of work? I'm willing to spend the money if it will protect my bike.

Here's a pic of the old one that is no longer made.

 

[motomania2007]

I presume you don't have even busted up examples of the old covers?

You can easily make your own a number of ways:
Aluminum or steel
ABS
PTFE
Fiberglass and carbon fiber

 

[lolibater]

Nope, I have nothing but the bike. I'm looking for someone who can make this. I do not want to attempt this myself. If you know of anyone, or are willing to do it yourself, let me know.

 

[LabRat675]

Sent you a PM about it. Biggest issue is just cost. Molds, vacuum bagging, labor, etc.

 

[Maddevill]

Seems like maybe a 3D printer working with a tough plastic would work.

 

[lolibater]

Seems like maybe a 3D printer working with a tough plastic would work.

That might work as well. Tough 3D print things do tend to shear under stress. Are you able to give it a shot? I'm at a loss here with what to do. Most one off's seem like they are upwards of $300, which is a bit too much for me when the bike itself is so cheap.

 

[auntiebling]

That might work as well. Tough 3D print things do tend to shear under stress. Are you able to give it a shot? I'm at a loss here with what to do. Most one off's seem like they are upwards of $300, which is a bit too much for me when the bike itself is so cheap.

you'll get pretty close to $300 just in materials and consumables going the route in the link above. the $100 mentioned there seems quite low.

what bike is this? no point in keeping it secret, someone that stumbles through this thread might have what you're looking for in their "i'm going to use this someday" pile

 

[lolibater]

Nah this wasn't a secret at all; thought the pics made it clear which one from my signature it would be. It's the 2007 BMW G650X. Touratech was the only company that made them, but they stopped that a few years ago. I found one guy with them, but he refused to sell them at any price.

 

[stangmx13]

thatd be a fun DIY. id try it.

i wouldnt bother w/ mold release. just cover the case cover in AL foil and/or packaging tape and lay the composite on top of that. the composite will just come off and u wont see the foil cuz its on the inside.

id prob add some kevlar layers for abrasion resistance.

 

[lolibater]

Oh hell yeah I would be doing carbon kevlar, not just carbon. But yeah I could DIY it, it's just going to take a fucking forever. Might just have to do it. I wouldn't even care if there was some shittier, easier way to protect the cases tbh. I just can't come up with any.

 

[Schnellbandit]

Oh hell yeah I would be doing carbon kevlar, not just carbon. But yeah I could DIY it, it's just going to take a fucking forever. Might just have to do it. I wouldn't even care if there was some shittier, easier way to protect the cases tbh. I just can't come up with any.

Make your life easy.

U-Pol Raptorliner. A thick coating that can withstand very high temps. Put it on thick or as thin as you like. You can even get it in different colors.

Its a pretty popular coating with Jeepsters and even when applied right next to exhaust headers to doesn't peel off or become damaged by the heat.

It's not cheap but then that probably isn't the primary concern. Plus, you can use it for other things too like coating the bottom of hard side bags, under the rear fender etc.

You could probably build up the coating as thick as you want depending on the level of protection you want.

 

[lolibater]

Make your life easy.

U-Pol Raptorliner. A thick coating that can withstand very high temps. Put it on thick or as thin as you like. You can even get it in different colors.

Its a pretty popular coating with Jeepsters and even when applied right next to exhaust headers to doesn't peel off or become damaged by the heat.

It's not cheap but then that probably isn't the primary concern. Plus, you can use it for other things too like coating the bottom of hard side bags, under the rear fender etc.

You could probably build up the coating as thick as you want depending on the level of protection you want.

What kind of impact protection would this give though?

 

[auntiebling]

Nah this wasn't a secret at all; thought the pics made it clear which one from my signature it would be. It's the 2007 BMW G650X. Touratech was the only company that made them, but they stopped that a few years ago. I found one guy with them, but he refused to sell them at any price.

i figured it was a generic pic from an unrelated bike, because that's my internet level :laughing

the packing tape or foil method stangmx mentioned would be faster, easier, etc.

motomania mentioned PVC. that stuff is heat formable. like a heat gun and some time and good ventilation and you'll have something that is better than nothing.

are you looking for function, or need to meet a race series rule or what (someone might race a g650x?)

 

[Schnellbandit]

What kind of impact protection would this give though?

Depending on thickness, it could take pretty hard impacts. There is a difference though when you speak of impacts. Thrown up rocks and objects is much difference then hitting the engine cases on a rock with the full weight of the bike behind the impact.

Consider that less durable coatings like Rhinoliner can take rocks being dumped into the back of a pickup truck bed and that should give you some idea.

It comes down to what you are trying to protect against, smashing into rocks or glancing blows or rocks being flung up against the cases.

With a decent thickness the protection would give as good protection as some thin glassed up type cover. Plus, if it got worn or a sharp rock peeled some away, just recoat it in place.

Being somewhat resilient, rocks or hard objects hitting it would have the impact softened up instead of a direct transfer of the impact. When two hard surfaces are layered, an impact to the top surface transfers to the one below. While it might not deform, it's still a sharp impact like effect. Nail, piece of sheet steel, hammer. The energy transfers to the nail from the hammer going right through the sheet steel. Then nail, wood, hammer. The wood absorbs some impact and dissipates the energy through deformation and spreading the force over a greater area. The Raptorliner will work to some degree in the same way, softening the impact while the material absorbs and dissipates some of the impact energy.

I have used the stuff, it works very good. I have coated side bags with it, swing arms on the bottom.side and thin bash plates which became very good impact resisters without deforming or transfering the impact.

About $100 ain't cheap but if you line up some other uses for it then the cost isn't too hard to swallow. Applied to cheap plastic brush guards it adds stiffness and strength at the same time. It does as some weight but nothing is free.

 

[splat]

I presume you don't have even busted up examples of the old covers?

You can easily make your own a number of ways:
Aluminum or steel
ABS
PTFE
Fiberglass and carbon fiber

Add Kydex to that list, too. Easily mouldable and pretty tough stuff.

I've made a few one-off carbon fiber parts in the past however I don't have a setup to do so anymore. It wouldn't be terribly hard, however, if you feel that 300 is too much to spend (which I don't disagree with) you're going to be making it yourself.

 

[Schnellbandit]

The problem with PVC and ABS is heat. If the engine cases get even close to 180 degrees or so the abs and pvc will become soft and begin to revert back to their original shape which is flat. To see what I mean, take a piece of ABS and PVC and heat form them. Then leave them in a hot car, on the dash or console and see what happens. They lose their shape. Kydex does the same thing although with Kydex you can get special forumlations that go to higher temps. Even so, they aren't really suitable for direct application on engine parts.

PVC is also sensitive to UV and exposure over time makes it brittle and worthless as a protection shield.

 

[MikeGyver]

Kevlar will help with abrasion, but it won't help protect from a direct rock punch. Carbon will not do anything except look cool. The resin used for those will become softer with heat as well.

What about welding aluminum plates to the side covers to make them thicker?

 

[lolibater]

This is just for function. No racing or anything. It doesn't have to look fancy, I just want it to work in the case of a slide and/or impact. I've slid on carbon never before and it held up great. I had r&g plastic covers save me from a rock punch too. I'm just looking to get similar protection for this bike.

Aluminum welding might work, though I've head it's really difficult? (Expensive?)

 

[lolibater]

Also, thank you all for contributing. I appreciate it a lot.

 

[FXCLM5]

id just take it to machine shop and mount up a few standoffs and then bolt on whatever median you want for a slider