• ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (15 days and 15 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
  • ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (30 days and 30 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.

NOT FPR SALE NO MO - 2009 KTM 690 SMC (White)

Status
Not open for further replies.
stan23

stan23

Well-known member
I have for sale an enthusiast owned and well taken care of 2009 KTM 690 SMC. This is my third one, and I know these bikes very well. The bike has 17K miles, with fresh oil change and newly rebuilt forks. No leaks or any issues. Runs perfect! Clean title, and registration just renewed for another year.

- KTM Hard parts axle sliders front and rear
- KTM Hard parts peg sliders
- OEM KTM new style hand guards
- RG bar end sliders
- Wings Titanium exhaust
- Seat Concepts seat
- CJ Designs billet gas cap
- OEM KTM Aluminum skid plate
- New 2010 Plastics with OEM KTM decals
- KTM SuperSprox 44t rear sprocket
- Michelin Pilot Power 3 tires with plenty of tread
- KTM EVO 1 airbox lid
- KTM Akrapovic mapping
- Tune ECU cable
- New Renthal grips
- Swingarm Spools
- Aprilia Mirrors
- Galfer front wave rotor
- wired for battery tender, with battery tender included!

I have lots and lots of spare/stock parts which will come with the bike. Bike has stock blinkers, rear fender, and tail light. I like keeping things OEM. Only selling because this was a project bike for me, and now i'm looking to buy a Husqvarna 701. If you have one of those, and you happen to want to trade, i'll add cash on top.

Price is $6500 FIRM.

2G2A6681.jpg

2G2A6683.jpg
 
Last edited:
T

tbkonwso

Well-known member
stan23 said:
Thank you sir!



You know that was just a joke! I want to see these things on the road!



:)
Click to expand...

i just realize that i spent more on my bike to restore than your selling price already lol.

how do you remove the spacers from the fork? is it easy? im trying to dial the suspension in , it handles like poop atm =\

good luck with the sale
 
stan23

stan23

Well-known member
tbkonwso said:
i just realize that i spent more on my bike to restore than your selling price already lol.

how do you remove the spacers from the fork? is it easy? im trying to dial the suspension in , it handles like poop atm =\

good luck with the sale
Click to expand...

You need to remove the fork cap. The plastic preload shims are underneath. There's a writeup on SMJ.
 
madsen203

madsen203

Undetermined
Stan, I think you need a personal Executive Assistant. One who can take care of coordinating the buying and selling of your cars and bikes along with other mundane activities of your day to day life. PM me, I may be of service.

GLWS, I know you take damn good care of your toys and someone will be a lucky new owner.
 
stan23

stan23

Well-known member
madsen203 said:
Stan, I think you need a personal Executive Assistant. One who can take care of coordinating the buying and selling of your cars and bikes along with other mundane activities of your day to day life. PM me, I may be of service.

GLWS, I know you take damn good care of your toys and someone will be a lucky new owner.
Click to expand...

:):thumbup
 
BigRich

BigRich

Well-known member
As curious newb, can you help me understand the difference between the SMC and SMR? Is it ride height and street vs. trail riding feel (which I wouldn’t be able to tell)? Is there a power difference? And last question...how 40m commute friendly are these? Thanks!
 
T

tbkonwso

Well-known member
want to part out your seat and gas cap?

my ass hurt so much from sitting in the stock seat and my gas cap is leaking when i wheelie
 
stan23

stan23

Well-known member
Blankpage said:
I sold my 2010 for way too cheap :(
Click to expand...

I think my bikes command top dollar because they appeal to certain folks. I'm super OCD about all my vehicles and everyone that comes over can see that. I never short cut and take my time to do things right. In some instances, i've sold bike for higher than my asking price due to bidding.

tbkonwso said:
want to part out your seat and gas cap?

my ass hurt so much from sitting in the stock seat and my gas cap is leaking when i wheelie
Click to expand...

I know exactly what you mean about the stock seat, I hate it. I would go buy the ergo comfort seat. It's more comfy, but I know some folks may not like it. Scuderia usually has them in stock if you want to try it.

As for the cap, It's usually the OEM viton o-ring that seats between the base of the tank and the bottom of the cap. I would call that a wear item. (BTW, this bike has a new OEM o-ring)

If a new o-ring doesn't solve it, then you may the problem my bike did.. swelling tank.

As these bikes start to age, the ethanol on our gas WILL start swelling the tank. I picked up an out of state tank from a '12 bike.
 
FreeRyde

FreeRyde

The Curmudgeon
How do you farkle the ever loving shi!t out of bikes and then instantly sell them? Is this a sustainable practice? Or do you just like hemoraging money? Teach me your ways!

Clean farkle job by the way.
 
stan23

stan23

Well-known member
FreeRyde said:
How do you farkle the ever loving shi!t out of bikes and then instantly sell them? Is this a sustainable practice? Or do you just like hemoraging money? Teach me your ways!

Clean farkle job by the way.
Click to expand...

I usually make a few bucks. I have never lost money on a bike. If I am unlucky, I ride a bike for a few months and break even. But that's very rare. Every few bikes I sell, I have enough profit to buy another bike.

I am not a business, nor am I someone who is doing this just to make money. I have a full time engineering job, 2 kids, a house to take care of, and all the cars.

Working on bikes is fun and relaxing to me - I am also a research hog. I LOVE learning about each bike. I have so much random knowledge, that I also like to pass along to anyone that needs help.

As said, I have a few personal rules.

- I never buy a bike just to 'flip' it. Every bike I buy is because I personally want it, and want to ride it. I want to mod it to my tastes and fix anything I don't like. Believe me when I say this, it's much easier to sell a bike or car when it's a vehicle you clearly showed passion and enthusiasm for. I just sold my 2017 Tesla Model S, and had a buyer in 30-minutes with cash at hand.

- Do it correctly the first time, or don't do it at all. Case in point, this bikes original tank had a small swelling problem. 99% of the population would not care, nor would they swap tanks for such a small problem because some plastic holes don't line up perfectly - but not me. I took my time to research the problem, find a suitable solution, and take my time with the fix. I never take shortcuts--it will always come back to bite you. I personally would never ride a bike that had *any* type of mechanical issue. It's just not worth it to me. With bikes and vehicles my OCD kicks into overdrive.

- I guess most importantly of all, I do it because I enjoy it. I love riding, and I love trying out different bikes. To me, test riding a bike will never do it for me. I need to own it, take it apart, live with it, etc... I didn't set out to see how many bikes I can go through in a year. It just kinda happened. I always get people asking me to buy my bike, and with how I am about trying new bikes, it just kinda worked out that way. It got to the point where people would give me money to sell their bike for them. I was pretty successful in that, but honestly, I didn't like doing it.

Anyways, sorry for the long OT post.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top