Help with windshield!

[musiclucho]

Hi Folks,

Sometime ago I drop the bike :wtf ...stupid me, because I was trying to practice an emergency stop in the rain and grab the front brake too hard...of course I blocked the front tire...anyways.

Few scratches mainly in the foot pegs but the main damage was my windshield, a National Cycle Plexistar 2 that came with the bike when I bought it. I am working on the scratches in the plastic with some sort of success but my main concern is the left plastic piece that is the housing of the left ball ended rod. Is totally broken and there is no room for a plastic surgery. I called National Cycle and of course that part is not for sale (they said I have to buy the entire shield for ONLY 160bucks ) .
I don't know how else I can fix that, so here is my last resource...asking for ideas. I don't mind drilling holes in the shield BTW.

Thanks guys!

PD. I have two images to add but I don't know how

 

[musiclucho]

Oh, I think I found the way to add pics...

 

[budman]

I moved this to the garage... you will get more help there.

Good luck.

 

[ST Guy]

You might be able to adapt something from RAM.

https://www.rammount.com/components

Measure the ball diameter of your existing parts and go from there.

 

[RVFRick]

I have an idea but first I am not completely clear what your photos show. Is one the remaining good one and the other one the broken side? I'm assuming the black plastic is nylon (aka polyamide or PA for short) like the stuff used for backpack clips, straps and such. And the ball is metal (no pic).

Once the windshield is mounted is the ball joint serve a function or is it only to accommodate a range of different bike geometries? If the is "yes" then I'd use a screw and some adhesive. :afm199

The screw provides strength and the epoxy (maybe not necessary) will help distribute the mechanical stresses over a larger area. How aesthetic it turns out is up to your creativity and skill. :cool

SCREW
1 Choose an appropriately sized screw. Perhaps number 10? Where a flanged headed Phillips screw would be ideal but a screw and washer also fine. Size the washer to spread the clamping load over a as much of the nylon face as you can.

2 Drill a small hole say 3/2 or 1/8" from the outside through the nylon and then into the ball (a pointed center punch indent into the ball will help keep the drill centered). Keep the holes aligned set you can.

3 Drill a clearance hole in the nylon.

4 Drill the correct diameter for the tap you decided on.

5 Do a test fit and make sure everything aligns and then prep for the adhesive.

ADHESIVE OPTION (This could be prove difficult to do if while on the bike)
Buy a quality 2-part epoxy. I've had good luck with JB Weld and Loctite epoxies. Surface prep all surfaces (nylon front and back, metal ball, washer's faces) by roughing with 120 grit sandpaper (both the metal ball and the plastic parts). The sanding adds surface bonding and grip surface for the epoxy to bond to.

Remove all dust and oils by wiping down surfaces with isopropyl alcohol.

Mix up the epoxy per the instructions, loosely screw the parts together while leaving gaps so you can work in epoxy. Slather on all the parts and coat around the backside of the ball (you probably can't due this while on the bike as it will all drip off but rather only with the windshield face down on a flat horizontal surface. You'll have to figure out how to fixture everything in the correct position if you attempt this. Or let the epoxy partial cure in approx. correct position and then mount it when the epoxy starts to "kick off". In any case don't forget to tighten the screw once the epoxy is worked in.

You can also do the epoxy in stages meaning the outside first. Then a second or even third round for the ball side. Hmm, perhaps some glass fiber help hold the epoxy in place?

Whadyathink?

 

[musiclucho]

I have an idea but first I am not completely clear what your photos show. Is one the remaining good one and the other one the broken side? I'm assuming the black plastic is nylon (aka polyamide or PA for short) like the stuff used for backpack clips, straps and such. And the ball is metal (no pic).

Once the windshield is mounted is the ball joint serve a function or is it only to accommodate a range of different bike geometries? If the is "yes" then I'd use a screw and some adhesive. :afm199

The screw provides strength and the epoxy (maybe not necessary) will help distribute the mechanical stresses over a larger area. How aesthetic it turns out is up to your creativity and skill. :cool

SCREW
1 Choose an appropriately sized screw. Perhaps number 10? Where a flanged headed Phillips screw would be ideal but a screw and washer also fine. Size the washer to spread the clamping load over a as much of the nylon face as you can.

2 Drill a small hole say 3/2 or 1/8" from the outside through the nylon and then into the ball (a pointed center punch indent into the ball will help keep the drill centered). Keep the holes aligned set you can.

3 Drill a clearance hole in the nylon.

4 Drill the correct diameter for the tap you decided on.

5 Do a test fit and make sure everything aligns and then prep for the adhesive.

ADHESIVE OPTION (This could be prove difficult to do if while on the bike)
Buy a quality 2-part epoxy. I've had good luck with JB Weld and Loctite epoxies. Surface prep all surfaces (nylon front and back, metal ball, washer's faces) by roughing with 120 grit sandpaper (both the metal ball and the plastic parts). The sanding adds surface bonding and grip surface for the epoxy to bond to.

Remove all dust and oils by wiping down surfaces with isopropyl alcohol.

Mix up the epoxy per the instructions, loosely screw the parts together while leaving gaps so you can work in epoxy. Slather on all the parts and coat around the backside of the ball (you probably can't due this while on the bike as it will all drip off but rather only with the windshield face down on a flat horizontal surface. You'll have to figure out how to fixture everything in the correct position if you attempt this. Or let the epoxy partial cure in approx. correct position and then mount it when the epoxy starts to "kick off". In any case don't forget to tighten the screw once the epoxy is worked in.

You can also do the epoxy in stages meaning the outside first. Then a second or even third round for the ball side. Hmm, perhaps some glass fiber help hold the epoxy in place?

Whadyathink?

It sounds like a good surgery and low cost too
The plastic piece is still glued to the shield so I may not send a screw through it but maybe a clip horizontally to hold the glue. You gave me some good ideas and thanks for the advice on the epoxy. I was just thinking to make a housing out of epoxy and glued, somehow to the rest of the plastic to hold the ball of the rod.

 

[musiclucho]

You might be able to adapt something from RAM.

https://www.rammount.com/components

Measure the ball diameter of your existing parts and go from there.

That website is like heaven :thumbup
I have some ideas in case solution A does not work.

Thx a lot!!!

 

[RVFRick]

It sounds like a good surgery and low cost too
The plastic piece is still glued to the shield so I may not send a screw through it but maybe a clip horizontally to hold the glue. You gave me some good ideas and thanks for the advice on the epoxy. I was just thinking to make a housing out of epoxy and glued, somehow to the rest of the plastic to hold the ball of the rod.

I see. To remake the socket:
Fashion what is basically a thick walled tube that fits the nylon plate with as much surface area as possible for a good strong bond. Make it taller than the ball.
Roughen and prep surfaces and bond it to the nylon.
Next stage insert ball to your new socket and back fill it with epoxy or E6000 adhesive (it's strong and pliable).

EDIT: for the tube consider a nylon standoff from McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/#unthreaded-spacers/=1cctc7p
If you get lucky you can find one that has an inner diameter just larger than the ball with an outer diameter that you can work with.

 

[ST Guy]

Remember, and as mentioned, cleanliness and surface prep is everything when using adhesives. Roughen the surfaces to be bonded, add mechanical retention where ever possible, and then clean very thoroughly.