Help with coolant leak

[ToxicMark]

Hey all,

I'm working on a supermoto build using a 2011 yz250f and am close to finished. Catch cans are the last thing I am working on. Crank case breather hose catch can - check. Carb catch can - check. Coolant catch can - check...but what does it matter because coolant is leaking out of my bike from somewhere where a catch can can't go.

Just below and under my water pump cover and right above the oil line is a hole where coolant is dripping out from when the bike is running. Is it supposed to do that? Is there supposed to be a bolt in that hole? I know the hole is hard to see from the pictures, but it's there.

Thanks for any help in advance.

 

[Ironbutt]

Pull it apart with new seals in hand and give it some R&R?

Good motorcycle BTW.

Hey all,

I'm working on a supermoto build using a 2011 yz250f and am close to finished. Catch cans are the last thing I am working on. Crank case breather hose catch can - check. Carb catch can - check. Coolant catch can - check...but what does it matter because coolant is leaking out of my bike from somewhere where a catch can can't go.

Just below and under my water pump cover and right above the oil line is a hole where coolant is dripping out from when the bike is running. Is it supposed to do that? Is there supposed to be a bolt in that hole? I know the hole is hard to see from the pictures, but it's there.

Thanks for any help in advance.

 

[ToxicMark]

"r&r"? Rest and relaxation?

 

[Ironbutt]

:laughing

"r&r"? Rest and relaxation?

Repair and restoration or 'down time'.. It's broken, fix it.

 

[sudo]

That's the weep hole. When it starts leaking, it means the waterpump mechanical seal needs replacing.

 

[RickM]

If it started leaking after sitting for a while ( and was not leaking last time it was running), running the engine for a little while might make the mechanical seal work again. It might still be on borrowed time.
^this is based on my one anecdotal experience. So ymmv.

 

[ToxicMark]

Thanks. New seal for both oil side and coolant side on order.

 

[ToxicMark]

Hey all. Finally had time to install the new seals during which I came across a few other finds.

First, it looks like the pump shaft is worn to the point of forming a groove from the seal.

So, I ordered a new shaft. The bearing had a bit of play in it, so I ordered a new one of those as well. Then I saw this...

The inside of my shiny new Boyesen Pump cover is scored. And from the looks of the Boyesen impeller fins...

They are the culprits scoring the cover. Anyone come across this problem? Will new seals, bearing, and shaft correct this?

 

[ToxicMark]

Also, I noticed a bit of play available in with the shaft when everything is bolted up (with new shaft, seals, and bearing). The play allows the impeller to change elevation a bit, as much as seen in the following two pics...is this normal?

Low elevation...

And high elevation...

Thanks for any input.

-TM

 

[scottiedawg66]

that seems like an excessive amount of (for a lack of a better term) shaft play. I would think that is what caused your impeller to machine your housing.

Is that present even with the shaft pressed into the bearing?

 

[Hybridchemistry]

that seems like an excessive amount of (for a lack of a better term) shaft play.

Sounds like something my parents would have said :laughing

But I'm going to agree there, too much play, and probably why it's grinding against the cover. is there supposed to be a retaining clip or spring to hold it down?

 

[Maddevill]

Doh and Doh!!!!!

 

[280SQUAGGLER]

Looks like someone missed some washers. I'd go back and make sure you have all the correct spacers. Then replace propeller,and shaft. Just because you took it apart like that doesn't mean it was installed correctly.

 

[ToxicMark]

The play is coming from how the shaft sits. If you look at the pic of the shaft above there is a groove/notch in it right before the shoulder in front of where the gear begins (in the fische this groove is obscured). It's almost as if an o-ring or something should go there, but according to the fiche nothing goes there and the shaft can move in and out the exact width of that notch. Tightening the impeller does not remove the gap. Am I supposed to keep using the washer (item #5) with the Boyesen impeller? If I don't that just might cinch up the slack.

Nut, impeller, washer, water seal, oil seal, bearing, shaft, washer and circlip. I'm not missing any bits

 

[scottiedawg66]

is the shaft stock or boysen? have you confirmed you have the right shaft?

 

[ToxicMark]

Mystery revealed. Washer #5 is not supposed to be used when using a Boyesen impeller. The shop screwed up the install. Anyone have experience getting shops to replace improperly installed parts that lead to their destruction? Per Boyesen the cover can still be used but the impeller is scrap.

 

[Ironbutt]

Express your extreme displeasure after repairing it and your able to ride. (I'd use stock shit) and I bet you'll be less upset after the bike is running again.

That's the time to go back into the shop and tell them they jacked it. Before hand you'll be too spun up. (pun intended)

Maybe this is just me.. but so as long as it doesn't require 1000 special tools, I do it myself.

Go Matco tool trucks!

C

Mystery revealed. Washer #5 is not supposed to be used when using a Boyesen impeller. The shop screwed up the install. Anyone have experience getting shops to replace improperly installed parts that lead to their destruction? Per Boyesen the cover can still be used but the impeller is scrap.

 

[ToxicMark]

Good advice...on both counts. It didn't look like a difficult installation (and it isn't), but I was having the shop do a full service on the bike and thought "what the heck, may as well have them throw this on while they have the bike."

Thanks for your input.