Help picking next (dirt) bike

AngryShawn

Speed Bump
Trail riding a yz125 mx bike is not the most rewarding experience, it requires a LOT of engine/clutch management to stay in the power and once it falls off, its over. On the track though, they are a lot of fun.
Yamaha recently started offering the YZ125X for off road use, and reviews appear to be pretty positive.
 

dbc

Well-known member
Trail riding a yz125 mx bike is not the most rewarding experience, it requires a LOT of engine/clutch management to stay in the power and once it falls off, its over. On the track though, they are a lot of fun.
Yamaha recently started offering the YZ125X for off road use, and reviews appear to be pretty positive.

Hey Shawn,
It's been a long time, y'all still riding Cow now and then?
Lee Ann & I are still hitting the trails- just not every weekend like before..
You ever blow up that CR500? :teeth
 

dbc

Well-known member
I'd say buy DBC's WR250F and go ride! :)
Thanks!
I could use the space...:thumbup
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MXT

"AZN"
Prequalifying note: I don't really know much/have much experience with non Orange bikes so all of my recommendations/relevant 2c information is about orange bikes.

As someone who owns orange bikes all over the spectrum and has put a pretty decent amount of time on them, I'd say that a TPI 2 stroke or a 350 XCF-W/EXC-F would be the best bike for all-around trail riding.

The 250/300 TPI 2 strokes are very close in displacement, but in my experience, the 250 TPI is a VERY nimble bike, compared to an equivalent 300. A 150 would be even nimbler. I know you said no 300's but I figured I'd throw that info in there. The 250 can actually still be pretty intimidating once you get it into the power band in its high rev ranges. It's a little more peaky than a 300 as well. The reality is that with a 300 you can get away with riding it in its lower rev ranges with little to no stalling (especially TPI).

One big difference between a 2T and a 4T is that the 2T's actually do low RPM lugging better than their equivalent 4T's; 4T's will stall out at low RPM if you don't mess with the clutch a lot more often than a 250 or 300 2T, with the latter being even more luggable.

I don't know if you've already answered this, and if you have apologies but I must not have been able to grok it out of the thread, but does a plate matter to you? What about green/red stickers? I know you've listed bikes that are all over the spectrum re: sticker/plate, but if they do matter in a more than insignificant manner, I would order the orange series of bikes as follows:

Plate:
350 EXC-F hands down

Green Sticker:
350 XCF-W (should be a little cheaper than an equivalent EXC, but maybe not necessarily worth it b/c an EXC has better resale)
350 EXC-F

Red Sticker:
250 XC-W TPI (red) or 150 XC-W TPI (red)
350 XCF-W
350 EXC-F

I've always said that a 350 EXC-F is the perfect "compromise" bike, i.e. a bike that has a plate and still feels nimble enough to be a fun trail bike. You can also generally find them easier, as the 500's have a little more of a cult following behind them.

I would not buy a MX bike unless price is really an issue for you, the cross country oriented bikes are a better for trail riding. You'll end up putting a lot of money into an MX bike to make it more trail friendly.

I've owned a 2017 WR450F and ridden a 2018 WR250F and really do not like the ergonomics and think they are extremely heavy for what they are. They certainly feel heavy, especially compared to their orange counterparts. Of course, this is personal opinion and I'm sure there are plenty of people out there who will disagree with my assessment there.
 
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augustiron

2fast 2live 2young 2die
I have a really nice 2013 ktm 350 xcf-w cali plated w/200 hrs and a fresh full service and lots of goodies i am contemplating selling.
Pm if interested.
 

MXT

"AZN"
I thought of a few more things.

You said in your OP that you
would probably lug a 2 stroke so much to foul plugs all the time
but the reality is that you won't foul the plug on a properly jetted bike even if you never get on the pipe, and a TPI is a properly jetted bike.

KTM does have the XC line of bikes (vs. the XC-W/XCF-W) but those generally are oriented more at aggressive cross country riders (hare scramble/etc.) than the trail bikes (W). While they would be excellent bikes, they do have the AER (air) forks and a linkage, which come with their own riding characteristic, not to mention the fact that the gearing is slightly different on them. A linkage isn't necessarily a bad thing though, basically every other bike has them, including Husqvarna's which are just a white KTM. An XC's suspension would be a little better at jumps though...

A good riding friend of mine has a 300 XC, and generally finds he doesn't need the "goat" (1st) gear much, but to his credit, he is an excellent rider and doesn't generally find himself in situations where he needs to goat.
 

Eric B

Know-it-none
Whatever you chose, Sakura, could you start a “which oil for my new bike” thread next? Should be entertaining.
 

KooLaid

Hippocritapotamus
I thought of a few more things.

You said in your OP that you but the reality is that you won't foul the plug on a properly jetted bike even if you never get on the pipe, and a TPI is a properly jetted bike.

True, I lug my 300 XC-W TPI constantly and it has not fouled a plug yet

KTM does have the XC line of bikes (vs. the XC-W/XCF-W) but those generally are oriented more at aggressive cross country riders (hare scramble/etc.) than the trail bikes (W). While they would be excellent bikes, they do have the AER (air) forks and a linkage, which come with their own riding characteristic, not to mention the fact that the gearing is slightly different on them. A linkage isn't necessarily a bad thing though, basically every other bike has them, including Husqvarna's which are just a white KTM. An XC's suspension would be a little better at jumps though...

The AER forks in the SXF line is not great for the slow speed and small bumps but a beast with the bigger hits. However I've read often that the XCF AER forks are "too soft but I've never tried it. I do know that they are identical forks except for the valve assembly in the 450s, I was researching how to soften my SXF AER forks. But with my 2020 300XC-W, the forks are coil sprung and ridiculously soft. I bottom them out pretty often trail riding or at least I think I am 90%+ in the stroke.

As for linkage, it is smoother and softer in my option. My PDS 300 XC-W sits taller, rides firmer than my 450 SXF Linkage which feels short on seat height, and plain plush in the rear end. I prefer the linkage rear end. But the forks kinda beat me up so I ride with the front wheel up in the air more often to wheelie over things or to actually land the front wheel harder for it to be softer (if that makes sense)

My 450 SXF jumped better and easier in general. I'm still learning the back end of my PDS 300 XCW.

A good riding friend of mine has a 300 XC, and generally finds he doesn't need the "goat" (1st) gear much, but to his credit, he is an excellent rider and doesn't generally find himself in situations where he needs to goat.

I regularly put myself into those positions now that I have the ability to lol. I constantly have to remind myself to make the bike work, not me get worked.
 
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Eric B

Know-it-none
Speaking of which, what oil should I use in my sexy new bike??? Rotella?? Amsoil?? :)

Well, I’m Just trying Rotella in a couple of bikes, I’ll report back.
And if you are buying an Orange bike, the fans of Motorex will want to have a chat with you. :laughing
 

KooLaid

Hippocritapotamus
I've converted using Shell Rotella T6 5w40 for years now in every single motorcycle I've owned for the past 15 years. Only bike I didn't was in the Aprilia SXV550 and that was because it wanted 10w60, a weight difference greater than I was comfortable but didn't matter since I blew it up anyways. With the T6, the stuff is cheap, good and readily available, along with being the exact same stuff I run in my diesel pickup, so the motos always have fresh oil in them. One oil for EVERYTHING.
 
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