Garage door missing screws

m_asim

Coitus Infinitum
Garage door missing screws: what to do?

I noticed that the garage door was buckling and not closing properly. Had a garage door guy come by who gave a $120 estimate to move motor assembly to a different location to install support. I just gave the door a good look and found that the steel supports pieces were not drilled to the top of the door(see arrows) in two locations. This has caused buckling and small crack in the sheet metal.

I’m thinking just drilling in sheet metal screws will stop the damage from spreading.

Question: What size sheet metal screw to use?
 

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Melissa

Peace,Love and Harmony
never thought I'd have anything in common with a garage door!
 
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OP, the installation looks a little hacky with the angle of that brace. From what I can see in the picture, I would probably put a small block of wood between brace where you have arrows to make it same distance from the garage door as the above connection point and run stainless bolts with the heads on the outside.
 

m_asim

Coitus Infinitum
OP, the installation looks a little hacky with the angle of that brace. From what I can see in the picture, I would probably put a small block of wood between brace where you have arrows to make it same distance from the garage door as the above connection point and run stainless bolts with the heads on the outside.

So essentially have the bolts go through the wood and sheet metal to the outside of the door and be bolted on the inside, right? Making sure I understood you correctly.
 

dravnx

Well-known member
Kinda hard to tell what is buckling, where it's cracked and where the stress is coming from.
If you want to add screws, pull an existing screw out bring it to the hardware store and match it.
 

m_asim

Coitus Infinitum
Kinda hard to tell what is buckling, where it's cracked and where the stress is coming from.
If you want to add screws, pull an existing screw out bring it to the hardware store and match it.

Attaching more photos to show buckling in the middle and cracks on both sides. I’ve also highlited where the screws are missing.
 

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m_asim

Coitus Infinitum
Why did they want to relocate the motor. Is that a stress bend or impact damage?

The garage door guy wanted the motor to line up with one of the support slats (the ones that I found are not screwed to the door) as they will take the forces being applied to the door better.

Forgot to mention that it is stress bend. No impact on the door.
 
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bootsy

peek-a-boo.....
I used #1/4 x 1" Pan Head Phillips Self-drilling screws.

I have the buckling issue with my garage door, also. Had an estimator come out and he flat-out recommended replacing with a new door....$1000 - $1400, single-layer up to 3-layer (insulated).

But I reinforced the buckling section with 2" flat and 1.5" x 1.5" angle aluminum (from Home Depot. So far it's holding up.
 

m_asim

Coitus Infinitum
I used #1/4 x 1" Pan Head Phillips Self-drilling screws.

I have the buckling issue with my garage door, also. Had an estimator come out and he flat-out recommended replacing with a new door....$1000 - $1400, single-layer up to 3-layer (insulated).

But I reinforced the buckling section with 2" flat and 1.5" x 1.5" angle aluminum (from Home Depot. So far it's holding up.

Yeah I got quoted $1000 for a new insulated door.

Can you send me a picture of 2" flat and 1.5" x 1.5" angle aluminum that you used so I can replicate it.

Also where did you get the 1/4 x 1" self tapping screws. The HD guy says that HD doesn't carry them. Went to other home center today but they don't carry them either.
 

bootsy

peek-a-boo.....
Here are some pics of my repair.

The darker pieces of aluminum I had laying around, but the long silver angle piece I got at Home Depot, as well as the self-drilling screws. (must be a newbie working the fastener section, if he can't find them). HD has the flat aluminum stock, too.

My fix is a bit overkill, but the door has buckled on numerous occasions, and definitely taking a toll on the metal.

I used an 8 feet length of angle across the top, bolted in three places where the vertical pieces of the panel are. The flat piece was placed, and screwed, on the middle vertical piece, where the opener bracket attaches to the door, forming a "T".

Two other angle pieces were used to sandwich the extruded bracing - this has weakened over time, as well. Your brace looks okay.

You may only need the 90* angle stock along the top.
 

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m_asim

Coitus Infinitum
Thanks. Let me start off with 90 degree angle stock along the top first and see if that helps.
 
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