• ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (15 days and 15 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
  • ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
    • It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again

    1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
    • animals, though free re-homing is ok.
    • anything illegal.
    • drugs, legal or not.

    2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:

    • Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY. DO NOT PUT PRICE IN THE TITLE
      • motorcycle or other vehicle:
        - make [MANDATORY]
        - model [MANDATORY]
        - year [MANDATORY]
        - Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
        - mileage
        - title info
        - current condition
        - maintenance history
        - accident history
        - location
      • If selling riding gear, include:
        - size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
        - in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.

    • Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
    • DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
    • Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
    • Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
      ) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
    • With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.


    3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!

    • Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
    • Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
    • Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
    • Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
    • Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958

    4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad

    • Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
    • If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
    • If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
    • If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.

    5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF

    • Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.

      BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
    • If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
    • We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (30 days and 30 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.

    6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
    • No reposting
    • No reposting
    • No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.

    7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
    • Is not allowed.

    8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
    • Is no longer allowed.

      • If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.

FEELER: Any interest in a very nicely built 2005 SV-650 formula racebike

StealthSwede

StealthSwede

Well-known member
*SOLD* Very nicely built 2005 Suzuki SV650 supebike

Reality is sinking in and I don't think finances and time will allow me to race for some time. Rather than have my beautiful baby sit and gather dust I need to set it free so someone else can enjoy her.

Asking $6,000 for a totally turnkey tricked out racebike. This thing is NOT production legal but will make an excellent podium contender in 650Twins and other lightweight formula classes. This bike needs nothing but the right rider to podium immediately.

There is more to add to this list, but here is what I have so far:

- 2005 Suzuki SV650
- Engine refreshed 2 seasons ago but since then I've only raced 4 weekends total plus 2 or 3 track days. For optimum performance it should be refreshed after this season (assuming you bought it and raced it the rest of this season)

Suspension:
- Suspension sprung for 175-180lb rider.
- 2003 GSXR750 forks with 2005 GSXR600 fork bottoms and 2006 Yamaha R6 radial calipers with correct Twin Works Racing spacers.
- Fresh forks custom valved by James Lee (see details below).
- Fresh Penske triple clicker shock serviced by James Lee (see details below).
- Scotts steering damper.

Work performed is the following:
- Showa Front forks 43mm.
Revalve with new 20mm KYB 2mm port digresive race pistons. removes the stock showa pistons. revalve shim stack.
KYBs spec pistons. face polished on 1000grit surface for sealness.
Forks completely disassembled checked for trueness..
Replaced l set of slider worn teflon slider bushing..
Fork leg sliders cleaned and polished with chrome polish. remove oxidation and scratches..Zero stiction on fork legs.
Seals cleaned and lubricated with Showa racing spec grease.
Forks completely cleaned internally/externally and luricated.
Forks filled with Factory Showa racing FFsuspension fluid.

- Penske rear shock
Shock completely dissassembled and cleaned.
Shaft cleaned and polished
Shim stack rebuilt to new spec
Teflon bushings checked, cleaned and greased
Seals checked and cleaned and lubricated
Shock body seal O-ring replaced
Shock refilled with Factory Showa racing suspension fluid. and recharged with propper nitrogen spec.

Chassis:
- Vortex CNC machined top triple clamp.
- Stock SV650 frame and swingarm
- Superlight aluminum subframe made by BRG Racing.
- Superlight aluminum fairing stay made by BRG Racing.
- Woodcraft rearsets with gp shift.
- Marvic Magnesium 16.5" front wheel (also have 17" stock GSXR wheel).
- Dymag Magnesium 17x5.5" rear wheel from a Honda CBR900RR.
- Dunlop KR106/108 slicks (16.5" front/180" rear) mounted, still good for a practice day and/or a couple track days.
- Vortex sprockets in various sizes (for both wheels) and 520 chain.
- Woodcraft rearsets with GP shift pattern

Brakes:
- Front 2006 Yamaha R6 calipers with Vesrah SJRL pads.
- Front EBC racelite rotors (also have Braking wave rotors and Alth rotors).
- Front Brembo 19x18 radial master cylinder.
- Goodridge micro bore steel brake lines.
- Rear Yoyodyne mini caliper with CNC machined custom caliper hanger made by BRG Racing (not pictured).
- Rear steel brake line.

Miscellaneous:
- Motion Pro quick turn throttle with 4 adjustable cam sizes.
- New Hotbodies bodywork (SV front, '07 GSXR750 tail), the new flexible stuff, not the old brittle kind. Beautiful blue/yellow/white custom paint.
- Tiny (0.7lb) battery in custom made cage mounted down low on the engine. - Wired to use remote jumper box for cold starts - no ignition key needed, just use kill switch + starter button.
- ASV brake and clutch levers.
- Custom made aluminum baskets for overflow bottles stored in front of instrument panel.
- Frame and swingarm sliders.
- COX radiator screen.
- Twin Works Racing custom clutch cable.

Engine:
- Leo Vince full race exhaust, stainless steel with titanium can.
- Power Commander 3 with two custom maps (race gas, pump gas) made by BRG Racing.
- Power Commander quick shifter.
- TPS eliminator.
- Open airbox with Factory Pro velocity stacks and tank risers.
- Twin Works Racing built top end (Hayabusa pistons, cams, 3mm bored out throttle bodies, valve job, etc.)
- Custom heat blanket made by BRG Racing to channel cool air into engine and hot air away.
- BRG Racing lightened flywheel.
- STM slipper clutch.

PM or call 415-290-6030 if you're interested.
 

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StealthSwede

StealthSwede

Well-known member
There is more to add to this list, but here is what I have so far.

- 2005 Suzuki SV650
- Engine refreshed 2 seasons ago but since then I've only raced 4 weekends total plus 2 or 3 track days. For optimum performance it should be refreshed after this season (assuming you bought it and raced it the rest of this season)

Suspension:
- Suspension sprung for 175-180lb rider.
- Vortex CNC machined top triple clamp.
- 2003 GSXR750 forks with 2006 Yamaha R6 radial mount fork bottoms.
- Fresh forks custom valved by James Lee (see details below).
- Fresh Penske triple clicker shock serviced by James Lee (see details below).
- Scotts steering damper.

Work performed is the following
1 Set Showa Front forks 43mm.
Revalve with new 20mm KYB 2mm port digresive race pistons. removes the stock showa pistons. revalve shim stack.
KYBs spec pistons. face polished on 1000grit surface for sealness.
Forks completely disassembled checked for trueness..
replaced l set of slider worn teflon slider bushing..
Fork leg sliders cleaned and polished with chrome polish. remove oxidation and scratches..Zero stiction on fork legs.
seals cleaned and lubricated with Showa racing spec grease.
Forks completely cleaned internally/externally and luricated.
Forks filled with Factory Showa racing FFsuspension fluid.

1 Penske rear shock
Shock completely dissassembled and cleaned.
Shaft cleaned and polished
Shim stack rebuilt to new spec
Teflon bushings checked, cleaned and greased
Seals checked and cleaned and lubricated
Shock body seal O-ring replaced
Shock refilled with Factory Showa racing suspension fluid. and recharged with propper nitrogen spec.

Chassis:
- Stock SV650 frame and swingarm
- Superlight aluminum subframe made by BRG Racing.
- Superlight aluminum fairing stay made by BRG Racing.
- Woodcraft rearsets with gp shift.
- Magnesium 16.5" front wheel (also have 17" stock GSXR wheel).
- Magnesium Dymag 17x5.5" rear wheel from a Honda CBR900RR.
- Dunlop KR106/108 slicks (16.5" front/180" rear) mounted, still good for a practice day and/or a couple track days.
- Vortex sprockets in various sizes (for both wheels) and 520 chain.

Brakes:
- Front 2006 Yamaha R6 calipers with Vesrah SJRL pads.
- Front EBC racelite rotors (also have Braking wave rotors and Alth rotors).
- Front Brembo 19x18 radial master cylinder.
- Goodridge micro bore steel brake lines.
- Rear Yoyodyne mini caliper with CNC machined custom caliper hanger made by BRG Racing (not pictured).
- Rear steel brake line.

Miscellaneous:
- Motion Pro quick turn throttle with 4 adjustable cam sizes.
- New Hotbodies bodywork (SV front, '07 GSXR750 tail), the new flexible stuff, not the old brittle kind. Beautiful blue/yellow/white custom paint.
- Tiny (0.7lb) battery in custom made cage mounted down low on the engine. Wired to use remote jumper box for cold starts - no ignition key needed, just use kill switch + starter button.
- ASV brake and clutch levers.
- Custom made aluminum baskets for overflow bottles stored in front of instrument panel.
- Frame and swingarm sliders.
- COX radiator screen.
- Zoran custom clutch cable.

Engine:
- Leo Vince full race exhaust, stainless steel with titanium can.
- Power Commander 3 with two custom maps (race gas, pump gas) made by BRG Racing.
- Power Commander quickshifter.
- TPS eliminator.
- Open airbox with Factory Pro velocity stacks and tank risers.
- Zoran built top end (Hayabusa pistons, cams, 3mm bored out throttle bodies, valve job, etc.)
- Custom heat blanket made by BRG Racing to channel cool air into engine and hot air away.
- BRG Racing lightened flywheel.
- STM slipper clutch.
 
StealthSwede

StealthSwede

Well-known member
Similar bikes on ridemerchant.com are going for $5,500 (with stock front end) to $6k range for ones with fully built front ends. Considering the many custom lightened parts and how fresh everything is I would like $6k for it. That would also include a stock GSXR750 rear wheel (so you can run practice on the stocker and race on the mag wheel) as well as the stock 17" front wheel in case you don't want to run a 16.5" front.
 
J

Junkie

gone for now
R6 fork bottoms on GSXR forks? Huh, had never heard of people doing that. Didn't figure you could seeing the diameter difference.

R6 calipers bolt up to 04/05 600/750 forks, I figured that's what they were. What's the advantage of what you did?
 
StealthSwede

StealthSwede

Well-known member
Sorry you are right. They are 2003 gsxr 750 forks with 2005 gsxr fork bottoms mounted to 2006 r6 calipers using zoran's custom spacers. My mistake.
 
StealthSwede

StealthSwede

Well-known member
Have had some interest in the bike but nothing firm yet. Asking $6k for a turnkey podium bike, can be delivered to the next AFM round (assuming BRG Racing is attending, which they usually do), or I can pickup from their shop in Concord and deliver to you if you live in the Bay Area. Needs numbers and gas and that's it.
 
StealthSwede

StealthSwede

Well-known member
I should have the dyno graphs in an old email, let me try and find them. It makes very good power though, you are right about that.
 
StealthSwede

StealthSwede

Well-known member
Ok I found the dyno chart. This was run on an Eddy Current dyno which reads significantly lower than a normal Dynojet. The red line is after Twin Works Racing built the motor, the white line is after BRG Racing did the cam timing, 35mm velocity stacks, heat blanket valve adjustment, lightened flywheel, and the custom fuel maps. As you can see from 6,000 upwards there's a huge bump in power and torque. The bike pulls really hard, it's so sweet to ride.

According to KC his dyno reads almost 22% lower, at Factory Pro their Eddy Current reads 13-15% lower, so that means "normal" power is in the range of 82.5 - 89 rear wheel hp. Having ridden other SV's my seat of the pants dyno says it's in the upper part of that range. I *believe* these numbers were obtained with pump gas but I'm not 100% sure.
 

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Mick-e

Mick-e

Ride, Race, Live
Can I buy your rear brake caliper?
I admire it lovingly every time I go to the shop.

For potential buyers. I've pushed this bike around the shop, and it ridiculously lite.
With the right rider this is a podium contender.

I believe it will be on display at Sears Pt Sept 1, and 2 at the AFM races in the BRG pit.
 
StealthSwede

StealthSwede

Well-known member
Thanks Mickey, the bike does feel like a 250 when you roll it around. Too bad I kept putting on the pounds as the bike shed them!!
 
Ducky_Fresh

Ducky_Fresh

Treasure Hunter
I think for $6000, that is quite fair.

My superbike is pretty much identical and that is about what I'd want for it, if it were for sale.
 
Last edited:
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