BARF Home Improvement: Installing Stairs
- Thread starter HappyHighwayman
- Start date
FLH03RIDER
Recedite, plebes!
Straight edge for a guide, get a piece of 1-1/2" x 6'-0" angle iron (18 ga. mild steel) so the edge of the saw shoe slides along it and a couple of 3" or 4" "C" clamps.
For your risers, think about getting plywood with a stain grade veneer on the finish side. Way cheaper than solid oak or walnut, etc. If you're going to paint the risers, plywood with a paint grade finish is fine.
As for glue, you'll need some sort of "clamping force" to secure boards. Appropriate finish nails or brads. Titebond III glue will work, cleanup excess squeeze out with damp rag if visible.
For your risers, think about getting plywood with a stain grade veneer on the finish side. Way cheaper than solid oak or walnut, etc. If you're going to paint the risers, plywood with a paint grade finish is fine.
As for glue, you'll need some sort of "clamping force" to secure boards. Appropriate finish nails or brads. Titebond III glue will work, cleanup excess squeeze out with damp rag if visible.
JakesKTM
Well-known member
Larry Haun videos on youtube about stair stringers is a great way to learn.
Sawhorses, a good framing square and keep good blades on your circular saw.
Rise/run calculators online will help you get your stair measurements sussed.
Target rise ahould be no more than 7 and 3/4 inch per stair (per code) measured from tread to tread.
Sawhorses, a good framing square and keep good blades on your circular saw.
Rise/run calculators online will help you get your stair measurements sussed.
Target rise ahould be no more than 7 and 3/4 inch per stair (per code) measured from tread to tread.
sf250gto
Zen
You can do this job with your circular saw. As suggested, clamp a straight edge (another piece of wood with a factory cut straight edge or a long level, or commercial edge guide) to make the cuts.
You don't need a stair tool for this retrofit. A tape measure will do fine.
You should have a level and speed square to check for plumb, level, and square.
My favorite sawhorses are the Bora Speedhorses--quick to deploy and compact when put away. Though any solid sawhorse will work.
Here is a decent video on retrofitting stair treads: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iOsbprpe5g
For the ballister cutouts use a jigsaw. Or if you have skills a Japanese hand saw.
Some newer construction stairs have the tread cutout so that the carpet lays in flush. This height difference would need to be filled in.
One tricky area may be the top landing. Will this remain carpeting?
Any construction adhesive will fine (Liquid Nails, Loctite, Gorilla...)
Another thing to consider is building code for your area. Codes are stringent about the rise and run of stairs. Make sure the retro risers don't put you over the max height.
Good luck with your project!
You don't need a stair tool for this retrofit. A tape measure will do fine.
You should have a level and speed square to check for plumb, level, and square.
My favorite sawhorses are the Bora Speedhorses--quick to deploy and compact when put away. Though any solid sawhorse will work.
Here is a decent video on retrofitting stair treads: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iOsbprpe5g
For the ballister cutouts use a jigsaw. Or if you have skills a Japanese hand saw.
Some newer construction stairs have the tread cutout so that the carpet lays in flush. This height difference would need to be filled in.
One tricky area may be the top landing. Will this remain carpeting?
Any construction adhesive will fine (Liquid Nails, Loctite, Gorilla...)
Another thing to consider is building code for your area. Codes are stringent about the rise and run of stairs. Make sure the retro risers don't put you over the max height.
Good luck with your project!
'Scuse the rookie question, but other than speed, what makes a circular saw ideal for cutting stair stringers? I reckon it can cut them quickly, but the shape of the blade would mean that you'd need to over cut to cut all the way through.
Seems like a jigsaw is a better tool for the job. Slower though.
Seems like a jigsaw is a better tool for the job. Slower though.
HappyHighwayman
Warning: Do Not Engage
I have some I clamps I purchased on recommendation for this project 
Top landing is already a wood floor. My house is carpet wood carpet ...bah.
Top landing is already a wood floor. My house is carpet wood carpet ...bah.
sf250gto
Zen
Hey Tyler, sorry I didn’t catch you asking about the stringers. Ideally I would use a circular saw and finish the cut with a jigsaw. Doing the whole job with a jigsaw would take too long. It definitely could be done though.
HappyHighwayman
Warning: Do Not Engage
Gonna rip up the carpet on Wednesday once the doggie I've been sitting is gone for safety
What you can do is cut to the line with a circular saw and use a jigsaw to finish it up. Or you can cut to the line on one side flip the piece over and then cut again on the other side to the line the little piece leftover can be cleaned up with a chisel or if going totally backwoods a flat blade screwdriver.
HH, pictures would help also when you are getting ready to do the work. Also for the riser you don't want to thick of a piece of wood as your stairs have to have a certain depth to them from front to back. These dimensions are probably stated somewhere in the building code.
JakesKTM
Well-known member
For the stringers that won't be seen - over cut with a circular saw by about 3/4" you'll be fine - for finish trim, base, or false stringer finish w jigsaw.
If your stairs are going to be carpeted over why use hardwood on any part? Use yellow pine for kickers and treads. 3/4" thick
If your stairs are going to be carpeted over why use hardwood on any part? Use yellow pine for kickers and treads. 3/4" thick
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That makes sense. It'd probably take me 2 hours to cut a pair of stringers with just a jigsaw, especially with needing to charge the battery halfway through at least once.
HappyHighwayman
Warning: Do Not Engage
So my neighbor showed me their stairs they just ripped up the carpet sanded and painted and it looked good.
And that is why most of my non-drill/driver power tools are still corded.
HappyHighwayman
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I think all my tools have swappable batteries (dewalt)
I use Ridgid and have a cordless drill, circular saw, impact driver, and sawzall. Jigsaw battery life is a joke but it does work long enough if I have a bunch of batteries charged but jigsaw, router, other sawzall and some other tools have cords because when I use them I am using them for a while so batteries running out would be no bueno.
HappyHighwayman
Warning: Do Not Engage
Got to know the drill a bit today doing some 2x4 cuts for a friend
dtrides
Well-known member
I just built a new deck and stairs a couple of months ago.
Used a framing square with stair gauges for layout.
Cut with my cordless jigsaw. My jig saw cut fairly quickly and I think I did all 3 stringers on one battery, maybe two.
When you go to nail or screw your treads down, I recommend you drill a pilot hole first so you don't split your new stringers.
I havent fired up my corded tools in years. I use 18v Milwaukee tools with 5ah batteries.
DT
Used a framing square with stair gauges for layout.
Cut with my cordless jigsaw. My jig saw cut fairly quickly and I think I did all 3 stringers on one battery, maybe two.
When you go to nail or screw your treads down, I recommend you drill a pilot hole first so you don't split your new stringers.
I havent fired up my corded tools in years. I use 18v Milwaukee tools with 5ah batteries.
DT
HappyHighwayman
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What kind of electric sander would you recommend?