Anyone up for a tips and tricks thread?
- Thread starter Carlo
- Start date
Tim-That CX Guy
Resident Window Licker
For the most part, only if it's in the CX family, but yeah.
If you have an old CDI bike that lost the low speed or high speed windings that fire the spark plugs, or the pulsers shit the bed, look into Ignitech modules.
They only require the one pick up to function properly, and they are programmable.
If you have an old CDI bike that lost the low speed or high speed windings that fire the spark plugs, or the pulsers shit the bed, look into Ignitech modules.
They only require the one pick up to function properly, and they are programmable.
IAmA M0t0r Ridεr
Well-known member
Anti-fog device for visors Pinlock works. http://www.pinlock.nl/motor/products/. Bought them for my helmet from an ebay seller in UK. My helmet didn't have provision for those, but it's a mod that can be done if you know what you're doing. This is big in Europe, and these guys did it for my AGV (not officially supported for my helmet, AFAIK).
augustiron
2fast 2live 2young 2die
Work on old bikes (esp Hondas)? get an impact driver and quality #3 phillips bit for it as your first tool.
firstbuell
GO! 04,16,23,31,64,69,95
fixed
next, get some business cards & a piece of cellophane wrapper from ciggies
mic the cards til one's thickness equals your designated points gap -
that's now your roadside guage
placed between closed points, the cello tells you when they open -
you can then rotate the points plate & match timing marks, etc.
Toast
Well-known member
Cheap valve spring compressor
- PVC tube cut to about 3 inches long (match to fit the top of the valve spring retainer, I used extra pvc from a fork spring kit)
- Cut square window in the bottom on one side (big enough to get needle nose through easily)
- Chamfer the inside
- Glue a washer on top if you want to be fancy
- Big c-clamp
Works great.
- PVC tube cut to about 3 inches long (match to fit the top of the valve spring retainer, I used extra pvc from a fork spring kit)
- Cut square window in the bottom on one side (big enough to get needle nose through easily)
- Chamfer the inside
- Glue a washer on top if you want to be fancy
- Big c-clamp
Works great.
Last edited:
vagabondmatt
Well-known member
Old Brake Calipers Stuck?
Old brake pads stuck and no way to get them out? Drill a small hole right into the center of the face of the old brake pad (assuming there is just enough left to drill into), then insert equivalent size eye screw. Then just grab the eye screw with channel locks/pliers and pull out.
ort
Old brake pads stuck and no way to get them out? Drill a small hole right into the center of the face of the old brake pad (assuming there is just enough left to drill into), then insert equivalent size eye screw. Then just grab the eye screw with channel locks/pliers and pull out.
ort
Last edited:
inthewoods
Well-known member
We use a grease gun and pump grease thru the bleed screw to remove the caliper pistons.
oldapeman
Rookie My A$$!
To remove brake caliper pistons, no matter how stuck, I use a low volume capacity hi pressure air compressor (like the cigarette plug types you get for $12 at Walmart), and an old brake line fitting cut off to allow the air compressor fitting to clip on. Stuff a rag into the caliper to catch the piston, and plug in the compressor. Out in a few seconds, easy as pie.
Tri750
Mr. Knew it All
I'm sure once we get a good number of these, they can be split up maybe by make or section. Anyway.
Triumph 650 Maintenance:
After changing the gear oil in the transmission, (please use synthetic) instead of mucking around with the messy level tube or measuring, use a flashlight to look inside the inspection/filler hole. The main transmission shaft visible, about the diameter of a nickel has a concave dimple in the center of it. Fill the transmission to the center of the dimple and call it good. My mentor, a 20 year Triumph factory trained tech gave me that pearl along with a bunch more.
Triumph 650 Maintenance:
After changing the gear oil in the transmission, (please use synthetic) instead of mucking around with the messy level tube or measuring, use a flashlight to look inside the inspection/filler hole. The main transmission shaft visible, about the diameter of a nickel has a concave dimple in the center of it. Fill the transmission to the center of the dimple and call it good. My mentor, a 20 year Triumph factory trained tech gave me that pearl along with a bunch more.
Carlo
Kickstart Enthusiast
Add this to the list of obscure tricks that almost nobody will be able to use.
Setting the valves on a Royal Enfield twin can be done without feeler gauges:
The factory setting calls for "nil" gap on all four valves, so I adjust the valves to the point where I can rotate the pushrod with my finger, but can't feel the tappet click when I try to move the end of the rocker arm up and down.
For "sustained high speed" use, the specs are "nil" on the intake and 0.002" on the exhaust. I use this setting just to be safe, and I've found that if I can just feel/hear the tappet clicking when I try to move the rocker arm up and down, I'm right at the proper gap.
Setting the valves on a Royal Enfield twin can be done without feeler gauges:
The factory setting calls for "nil" gap on all four valves, so I adjust the valves to the point where I can rotate the pushrod with my finger, but can't feel the tappet click when I try to move the end of the rocker arm up and down.
For "sustained high speed" use, the specs are "nil" on the intake and 0.002" on the exhaust. I use this setting just to be safe, and I've found that if I can just feel/hear the tappet clicking when I try to move the rocker arm up and down, I'm right at the proper gap.
Wicked4Racin
MOJO Motorsports
Surprised nobody has mentioned this yet but when tightening your rear axle, put a round object like a screw driver in between the chain and sprocket, roll the wheel so it tightens the chain against the axle blocks, and then tighten the axle nut to the correct torque.
Tip 2: De-glossing your brake pads and rotors. Take a piece of 150 grit sand paper and sand away by hand. Then spray off with brake cleaner and wallah fresh pad and disc surface ready to be glossed over again. (this was just publisged in motor cyclist mag but i have been doing it for years and it works great and its free).
Tip 3: Check your oil, check your air pressure, check your coolant/radiator fluid, check your attitude before you ride and during your ride! Get home safe and sound!
Tip 2: De-glossing your brake pads and rotors. Take a piece of 150 grit sand paper and sand away by hand. Then spray off with brake cleaner and wallah fresh pad and disc surface ready to be glossed over again. (this was just publisged in motor cyclist mag but i have been doing it for years and it works great and its free).
Tip 3: Check your oil, check your air pressure, check your coolant/radiator fluid, check your attitude before you ride and during your ride! Get home safe and sound!
GPzPop
Ask me about my B-1-D
learned these from hind sight recently.
if your exhaust header bolts have loosened to the point that the exaust note changes, its probably time to inspect / tighten them.
if they are loose, other bolts may be loose too, such as the shift lever pinch bolt, which left the bike as well as the shift lever itself halfway thru a ride a few days later
damhikijkok
if your exhaust header bolts have loosened to the point that the exaust note changes, its probably time to inspect / tighten them.
if they are loose, other bolts may be loose too, such as the shift lever pinch bolt, which left the bike as well as the shift lever itself halfway thru a ride a few days later
damhikijkok
GPzPop
Ask me about my B-1-D
also, another one :
on an airhead alternator, if the brushes are worn so far they dont make the circuit properly and the alt light starts to glow with increasing frequency on a ride,
you can field repair by fabricating helper springs from folded up tiny sized zip tie tails
on an airhead alternator, if the brushes are worn so far they dont make the circuit properly and the alt light starts to glow with increasing frequency on a ride,
you can field repair by fabricating helper springs from folded up tiny sized zip tie tails
Tim-That CX Guy
Resident Window Licker
Radials are now available for limited classic sizes.
Conti classic Attack comes in 100/90/19 front, 110/90/18 or 120/90/18 rear.
They also carry race tires in 100/90/18, 110/80/18 front,
130/80/18, 150/80/18 rear.
Conti classic Attack comes in 100/90/19 front, 110/90/18 or 120/90/18 rear.
They also carry race tires in 100/90/18, 110/80/18 front,
130/80/18, 150/80/18 rear.
firstbuell
GO! 04,16,23,31,64,69,95
I had no idea - thanx!
65_ dreamer
Well-known member
Not really a tip or a trick, but could be a valuable resource if you don't know about it already. In addition to tons of parts for Honda's, Kawasaki's, Yamaha's, and Suzuki's from 1959 and later, this site has really great detailed schematics and parts lists. http://www.cmsnl.com/
Tim-That CX Guy
Resident Window Licker
CMSNL is expensive as F*** though. Their shipping will kill you.
A better resource is David Silver Spares.
Not only do they have cheaper prices overall, they have a U.S. division, so shipping won't chew a hole in you r wallet.
They also very regularly have replica NLA parts manufactured. Exhaust systems, hard to find other stuff.
A better resource is David Silver Spares.
Not only do they have cheaper prices overall, they have a U.S. division, so shipping won't chew a hole in you r wallet.
They also very regularly have replica NLA parts manufactured. Exhaust systems, hard to find other stuff.
65_ dreamer
Well-known member
I didn't order anything from CMSNL, but looking at the detailed schematics helped me figure out which pieces from my steering damper were missing.
Good to know about David Silver Spares. Looks like they're much easier to order from than Ohio Cycle.