AC electrical connector question?

[tgrrdr]

Hi there,
Can anyone tell me what these connectors are called? I tried to find them online but didn't have any luck. They're for a 120 V AC vacuum cleaner cord.

My GF decided it would be a good idea to let the dog chew through the power cord. The good thing is that she (the dog) chewed it off close to the housing so I don't think I need a new cord, I can just trim off the chewed end, strip the wires and splice it back together. I figure it would be a good idea to use the same type of connector it came with originally but I'm open to using something else that will work.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Bill

 

[Cycle61]

Cap crimps.

 

[motomania2007]

Cap splices

https://m.platt.com/platt-electric-...-Insulators/Ideal/2007/Products.aspx?pid=7918

 

[liveforlight]

Here is a link for HD
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-Closed-End-Splice-Connector-10-Pack-20-090/205861890

you can also go to any car audio store. they have them by the thousands and usually give you a few free if you just need a few

 

[ctwo]

Don't forget the special crimp tool too... I don't think pliers work as well.

I've also seen the twist on ones in those applications, but that might not be UL certified anymore. I think they're called wire nuts.

 

[afm199]

You don't need those, you can use any UL listed connector. A blue wire nut will probably work fine. Run three wraps of electrical tape around it as insurance.

Crimp connectors need the proper tool to work properly, and the $8 HF ones don't always do the job.

 

[Sharxfan]

You could also use butt connectors they are a more inline option and you can but them with heat shrink wrapping so you can get a good seal. Like it was mentioned previously a good crimping tool is required it also might be called staking pliers.

 

[afm199]

Don't forget the special crimp tool too... I don't think pliers work as well.

I've also seen the twist on ones in those applications, but that might not be UL certified anymore. I think they're called wire nuts.

They are absolutely still UL listed.

 

[ctwo]

They are absolutely still UL listed.

:thumbup I just wasn't sure if they were approved for that application. I've seen them referenced for house wiring in the IEC. But I know little about all that...

 

[Sharxfan]

If you go to Home Depot they have these new house wiring connectors that consist of a plastic block with push-in connectors for house wiring. You just stip 1/4" of insulation off and push it into the block and it grabs it and holds it. They are awesome and they come with up to 6 entrance points. I have been using them recently and so easy to use. NOt sure it would work in OPs instance though but the wire nut posts got me thinking about them.

 

[Climber]

Just replace it with one of these, and as afm199 sayes, wrap them with electrical tape after. They work much better than what your picture shows.:

 

[afm199]

If you go to Home Depot they have these new house wiring connectors that consist of a plastic block with push-in connectors for house wiring. You just stip 1/4" of insulation off and push it into the block and it grabs it and holds it. They are awesome and they come with up to 6 entrance points. I have been using them recently and so easy to use. NOt sure it would work in OPs instance though but the wire nut posts got me thinking about them.

Those are usually for solid copper, #14 and #10. The stranded stuff (tffn pictured) just doesn't work in them.

 

[tgrrdr]

thanks again to everyone for your help. I found the connectors at ACE hardware and it didn't take very long to cut the cord, splice the wires and put everything back together. My vacuum sucks again (and hasn't spontaneously burst into flames) so all is good!

 

[Sharxfan]

Congrats on the DIY fix. I know the joy it causes when you do it yourself and it works.

I just had my big 6HP air compressor take a dump on me and stop working. I wasn't sure what was wrong so did some Google-Fu and found it could have a bad starter solenoid so I found out where it was and while taking it out of the housing one wire came off completely as it was totally corroded. So I saw there was an extra prong on the solenoid so I stripped the wire back, crimped on the new connector and put it back on the solenoid. Put it back together and the compressor started. I was on a high for like 2 days I was so happy it worked. Was not looking forward to replacing it for $800.